2006 Lincoln LS multifunction switch replacement question

DaleGrib

DaleGrib

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On the 2006 do you have to remove the steering wheel in order to replace the multifunction switch? I know you had to on the 2000-2002 but does not look like clockspring goes in this one. Many thanks in advance.
 
I was able to replace it without taking the steering wheel off. It's a little harder to get to but it is doable. Just mainly remove the shroud around the wheel and make sure the wheel is pushed all the way out. Then You just remove the 2 screws for the multifunction switch, then push the clips on the side of the clockspring and it slides right out. Then you disconnect the top harness first and then the bottom comes out easy.
 
Okay, so it seems that everything points to the FEM being the culprit here. The multimeter had a .70 reading, which was no surprise because it killed my car overnight.

Upon pulling the fuses it seemed that the ones associated with the FEM wouldn't go into standby mode like they should so they'd be powered on all the time. Also, the FEM itself wasn't looking too hot- it was a bit rusty and I'm suspecting some water damaged components.

I also tried disconnecting the DTCC to no avail.
 
FlavourShot said:
...I also tried disconnecting the DTCC to no avail.
Click to expand...

DCCV (dual coolant control valve)?
DATC (dual automatic temperature control)?

The FEM, REM, and DDM have to be powered all the time, otherwise, there would be no way to wake/power the car up, since the REM controls power, the FEM tells the REM if the ignition is on or door opened and so on, and the DDM tells the REM if the remote is used. Still, it does seem like your FEM is suspect. How much current was is drawing after thirty minutes?
 
joegr said:
DCCV (dual coolant control valve)?
DATC (dual automatic temperature control)?

The FEM, REM, and DDM have to be powered all the time, otherwise, there would be no way to wake/power the car up, since the REM controls power, the FEM tells the REM if the ignition is on or door opened and so on, and the DDM tells the REM if the remote is used. Still, it does seem like your FEM is suspect. How much current was is drawing after thirty minutes?
Click to expand...

LOL damn I messed that up bad. I meant DATC. So without any fuses pulled it would sit around .80 after 30 minutes. However, it would go to 0.01 after 30 minutes IF the green fuse was pulled (the main green one that seems to connect to everythingin the trunk bay). I know that doesn't mean that that means the FEM is the definite suspect, but I also tested the individual fuses that the FEM linked with. Neither of those fuses seemed to turn off either.
 
Yeah, 800mA is too much. It should be in the 200s with all the lights off, before sleeping, then around 20-30 mA when sleeping. (Up to 50mA shouldn't really be a problem.)

It's a very hard problem to troubleshoot, even with the dealer level scan tools. Disconnecting one module might stop the drain, but it might not be that module that is to blame. It could be something that it connects to or talks to that is the real problem. It's a pain...
 
joegr said:
Yeah, 800mA is too much. It should be in the 200s with all the lights off, before sleeping, then around 20-30 mA when sleeping. (Up to 50mA shouldn't really be a problem.)

It's a very hard problem to troubleshoot, even with the dealer level scan tools. Disconnecting one module might stop the drain, but it might not be that module that is to blame. It could be something that it connects to or talks to that is the real problem. It's a pain...
Click to expand...

Exactly. So at this point - based off the testing, everyone else's experiences, AND the rust on the FEM, I'm going to take the risk and see if I can get one off eBay. I think if I get the one that's for my exact model it might just be a plug and play. Either way I can get it programmed if needed.
 
FlavourShot said:
Exactly. So at this point - based off the testing, everyone else's experiences, AND the rust on the FEM, I'm going to take the risk and see if I can get one off eBay. I think if I get the one that's for my exact model it might just be a plug and play. Either way I can get it programmed if needed.
Click to expand...
Buy the ELM 327 and download forscan no need to pay someone to program that. I am also pretty sure every FEM and GEM I have got it was already programmed the correct way if it was used. But not saying you will get that lucky but I am pretty sure the last two I changed the codes were already correct in them as it seems some stuff is generic programming. Could have also been one of the things that it's different on a v6 or v8 so there is always that I suppose.
 
DaleGrib said:
Buy the ELM 327 and download forscan no need to pay someone to program that. I am also pretty sure every FEM and GEM I have got it was already programmed the correct way if it was used. But not saying you will get that lucky but I am pretty sure the last two I changed the codes were already correct in them as it seems some stuff is generic programming. Could have also been one of the things that it's different on a v6 or v8 so there is always that I suppose.
Click to expand...

Fair. Have a tutorial to do it on forscan? I feel like I won't need to do it if I carefully select one for my model but like you said you never know.
 
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