2006 Lincoln ls off the crusher

G

Gerald Moore

LVC Member
Joined
Apr 9, 2019
Messages
23
Reaction score
0
Location
Detroit
The car is not worth keeping with a bad transmission. I dont feel like replacing or rebuilding it. The body is rusted out in some spots too. I guess I will get another dependable car any ideas?
 
Well, that's sad. If you are willing to pull some of the good parts, you could probably sell some on here.

My possible replacements list is:
Jaguar
Genesis
Lexus GS
Cadillac CTS
Infiniti (haven't driven, not sure)
Kia Stinger
 
Depending on your wants, needs and budget … in the Ford World, the Ford Fusion and Lincoln MKZ (same car platform) have been solid, high quality, reliable (depending on power train) and consistent performers over a number of years. Similar in size to your LS. Main difference is they come std as FWD drive with AWD as a common option compared to our RWD LSs. Both lines come with many power options: 4 cyl., 4cyl. Ecoboost Turbocharged, Hybrid, Electric, a regular V-6 and finally their latest twin turbo 2.7L. V-6 at 350HP for FWD and 400HP in the AWD configuration. So you can find anything from an econo-cruiser to high performance Sport Model all in the same auto! There were mainly 2 generations of development: 1st Gen - 2007-2012 and 2nd Gen - 2013 thru the current model year. Next change is due 2020-21.

Other comparable cars most car mags find to the Fusion and MKZ are: Genesis G70, Alfa Romeo Guilia, Audi A5 SportBack, Mercedes C Class and maybe the Audi A4. New MSRP Base pricing on all these vehicles "new" range from high $30 thousands to high $40 thousands and into $50s with options...
MSRP Pricing on new Fusions range from $23,000 to $41,000 for an optioned AWD Sport Twin Turbo - TruCar price says the actual average sale for this same Sport model is $38,000. MSRP for the Lincoln MKZ runs from $35,995.00 to $46,995.00. Very comparable in overall value and total cost (imho) to the foreign competition above.
Since these vehicles have had such a long successful run, there are MANY tremendous PREOWNED deals available for one who does his homework! Good Luck in your search, Mr. Moore! :)
 
jjcool00 said:
Out of curiosity, why's that? The long range is 330 miles.
Click to expand...

I do more than that in a day at times, especially the weekends. Yes, I could keep another car and use it only for daily commutes, but ...
Sometimes I would have to go home and swap it because my job does sometimes lead to sudden long distance car travel.
The expenses of keeping an extra can be pretty high here.
 
joegr said:
I do more than that in a day at times, especially the weekends. Yes, I could keep another car and use it only for daily commutes, but ...
Sometimes I would have to go home and swap it because my job does sometimes lead to sudden long distance car travel.
The expenses of keeping an extra can be pretty high here.
Click to expand...


Fair enough. No superchargers in route? The neat thing about the GPS in the Tesla is that if you plot a course, it calculates battery and if you would be low or exhaust the battery during that trip and will pin point and reserve superchargers for you on route. For example, if I were go from Boston to Florida, it would tell have 5 stops planned for me along the route, with those superchargers reserved for those ranges of time. It's pretty cool. Only takes about 15-20 minutes to get from 10% to 70-80%.
 
I'm send my two manual transmission V6s to the crusher next week. Body rot on one and bad head on the other.
 
Gerald Moore said:
I guess I will get another dependable car any ideas?
Click to expand...

If I may weigh in? You mentioned "Dependable". So I assume that is your primary concern in a vehicle. I would recommend you pay for a 1 month subscription to 'Consumer Reports'. They are unbiased, and print feedback from all vehicle owners. I have personally found that their reports are fairly accurate based on the vehicles my family / friends / myself have owned.

Now for my personal opinion, this will be based on reliability. I will generalize based on region.
German
I don't recommend German due to high repair costs. And you must, MUST MUST do your research if you want to buy German Luxury, as there are a LOT of hidden pitfalls (BMW's V8, as an example, you'll be replacing valve seals at 100k, $5000 - $8000 job). BMW/Merc/Audi also charge a fair higher price for parts, and require an expert to work on at home (Source: All my friends with Mercs/Beamers).
*VW is hit and miss. Along with Audi, the luxury brand of VW. Be weary and do your research.

Japanese
*Toyota and Lexus are the most reliable. There is no disputing that. Most anything you buy will treat you well.
*Honda and Acura were very reliable from 2008 - 2014, however, 2015 - present have dropped in reliability considerably. Stay away from the Pilot from 2005 - 2010. Transmission problems caused by coolant leaking into transmission.
*Nissan / Infiniti is stable, reliable, yet problematic on some models.
*Subaru is hit and miss. Some older impreza were known for head gasket failures.
*Mistubishi - Stay away. I cannot recommend anything from Mitsu

Korean
Hyundai / Kia. Ok this one a tough one. The Genesis is a solid car based on reputation. However a friend of mine worked for Hyundai in the garage, and he did not like it. Said it was cheap and fragile. Steering issues iirc. This was around 2017.
The Elentra is their best car hands down (For reliability)

American
*Ford is cancelling their cars. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ So, if you go Ford, either Mustang, or Edge SUV. Not much else there...
*GMC - Nothing. I worked for GMC, might as well buy a Mitsu. Same shotty Quality control.
*FCA - This brand is well known for problems. Do your homework before buying.
 
Gerald Moore said:
I guess I will get another dependable car any ideas?
Click to expand...
So here is my personal list of cars I like, and the years I would consider. This list is based on 3 factors: Reliability, Safety (IIHS / NHTSA) and Features/Style. In no particular order for reliability, just what I like:

Cars I would (Personally) buy:
2012 / 2013 Infiniti G37X/S (AWD). (2011 - older G37/370Z have rear diff problems and gasket problems. Avoid.)
2015+ Nissan 370Z
2018+ Ford Mustang GT (Redesign, drove it. Very good)
2019 Dodge Charger R/T (altho FCA isn't as reliable, go test drive one of these. Chrysler's best platform)
2008 - 2014 Acura TL/S/SH-AWD
2010+ Nissan Altima 3.5 SE
2015+ Infiniti Q50 3.7L
2019 Nissan Altima 2.0 Turbo
2016+ Audi A5 Sportback
2014+ Lexus LS
2017+ Hyundai Genesis
2019 Subaru WRX STi
2016+ Nissan Maxima (Beware, some Maxima's are known for having issues at higher mileage)
Elec Cars
2018+ VW eGolf.
2019+ Tesla model 3/S (I would do more research on Tesla).
SUV:
2010+ Toyota highlander
2016+ Nissan Murano
2018+ Jeep Wrangler Sahara/Rubicon 4doors (Ok, NOT Reliable, but these are awesome looking Jeeps)
2016+ Ford Expedition 3.5L Ecoboost
Pickup:
2016+ Ram 5.7L
2018+ F150 5.0L (2018 V8 HP bump)



Cars or Brand I would Avoid:
Anything GMC / Chevrolet.
Anything Mitsubishi.
Anything Volvo.
Anything Discontinued.
Any compact or subcompact car.

That's my personal list, I hope this helps you in your endeavors OP. I thought this list out pretty thoroughly. All the best.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 343 (members: 0, guests: 343)
Back
Top