2006 Lincon LS 3.9L V8 another overheating issue, I can't find my specific?

[beammeupscotty]

New member so please be kind )

2006 LS V8 3.9L engine

I am a new member but I have been reading and searching this forum for quite some time looking for solutions for this car. The forum has been very helpful.
Overheating seems to be a common issue for this car.

Mine started overheating last year with about 108K miles, I replaced the degass bottle 1st as it was leaking, then the thermostat, the water pump, and finally the radiator itself.

After all that it got better and ran for several months with out further issue, it now is overheating again when its in stop and go traffic for 45 minutes or an hour... not on the while moving on the highway. The Fan does run, but seems to me its not blowing as hard.... last year when it was hot it would be blowing like a hurricane.

So whats left ? its not leaking anywhere I can tell..... my thoughts are the CHT or replacing the fan motor ? thanks for your help.... I am not a mechanic so type slowly !

 

[beammeupscotty]

P.S. its also been pressure tested

 

[joegr]

What's left is all the plastic on top of the engine. Check out the nearby thread about it.

PS: My 04 passed several pressure tests, but still had leaks in that area. It wouldn't leak during the test, but it would leak while driving. Your real problem isn't the loss of a little coolant, it's the air the gets sucked in.

 

[BrianDye]

Check this thread I just posted the other day out

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...ling-components-at-once!-(Plus-helpful-links)

Joe tried telling me ill need to replace everything, I said maybe later, but my stuff looks fine. (Then my thermostat housing blew a side piece off on the highway, and upon removing everything, I realized I definitely had leaks, and every single plastic piece was on its last legs)

 

[grizzlyls]

To help clarify, even the smallest leak will cause loss of fluid, an then a slow overheat condition. If you fill and bleed it will last fine for awhile then start the process all over. I had a super small pin prick hole on my upper cross over tube, I knew this by fluid on a part of that pipe that in no way could get fluid on it - and the area behind it on the manifold looked like aerosol paint can spray all over it. I made it 15 + miles topping the fluid off, most of the time at half way point on temp gauge. Replacing the tube sealed it up again, and took almost one gallon to fill system back up.

Some other common things hopefully you found in the threads here, but to reinforce - OEM on the degas only, Dorman and such doesnt last, Brians thread shows why you should just replace all the plastics at once, and bleed and fill right!

 

[beammeupscotty]

thanks for the info, I know my thermo housing and cap are new.... I will see about ordering the other plastic parts... 2 more questions if I am not wearing out my welcome.

1). Does the fluid type really matter ? saw someone who said you must use the correct coolant .. seemed a bit silly to me but maybe it makes a difference ?
2). Is pulling that intake manifold a huge deal ? I mean can turn a wrench and put bolds back in , in sequence but I am far from a master mechanic...wiser to just pay someone to put the parts on ?

well ok 3 questions 3) my temp gauge is always at least half way to H and it is often 3/4 is that "normal" or too hot ?


thanks for the guidance, I appreciate it ! the LS is a good looking and good driving car but man....parts...ugh

 

[joegr]

1. Any coolant safe for aluminum should be fine. Personally, I use Prestone long life pre-mix. If you don't use pre-mix, then be sure to mix with distilled water, not tap water.

2. No, it's not too difficult to do at all.

3. No, 3/4 is seriously overheating. 1/2 is where it should stay. Do note that overheating actually starts while it is still at the 1/2 way mark. The gauge is seriously buffered. It is not linear.

 

[RigsLS]

.... maybe later, but my stuff looks fine. (Then my thermostat housing blew a side piece off on the highway, and upon removing everything, I realized I definitely had leaks, and every single plastic piece was on its last legs)

Pretty standard protocol on these aging LS'es whenever running into overheating issues. Thing is ... you can tell a thousand men ... they still don't believe it. Expense plays a factor as well I'm sure. Some can't do it. "Just bought an 800$ LS, now need 2G's in repairs syndrome".

~ I'm just going to replace one coil and I have to get the cheap ones from eBay.
~ I'm just going to change the degas bottle cuz it's all that's leaking.

... stuff like that.

Most put in a new head unit w/ sub, some tint, then some wheels ... guess what happens after that.

 

[jim6669jim]

Excellent advice from grizz.

Replace the POS plastic T-stat housing and crossover pipe and degass bottle, both 'radiator caps'.
learn how to bleed air out. FWIR an air pocket can form in the cylinder head and cause a local overheat, and the computer puts it into limp mode. No obvious leaks. 2nd on the OEM cooling parts only. My fisrt replacement was from Advanced Auto, made in Vietnam. The metal tube disconnected from the made in Vietnam plastic bottle, and caused air to get sucked in.