2006 Overheating even after new parts.

D

Drac

LVC Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2015
Messages
42
Reaction score
10
Location
Cali
Hey guys. I have searched and read threads regarded the overheating issues these cars have, but I am still at a loss.

Out of nowhere, my 2006's gauge shot off the charts and my engine went into reduced power mode and I had to get the car towed home. I knew that the degas bottles are known to have issues, so that was my first thing to look at.


I have replaced the following with new components:

-Degas and cap
-Water pump
-Thermostat and housing
-New 50/50 green coolant

Coolant/system was bled correctly per the guide on LVC.




Haven't been addressed/replaced yet:

-Any hoses
-Plastic assembly/tubes behind thermostat housing that connects to heads
-DCCV
-Aux. water pump



I know the gauges in these cars do NOT read the actual temp accuracy. After I replaced the components I first listed, the car was "running fine" from what I thought, but what alerted me of abnormality is the fact that the fan was on ALL the time after the engine was warmed up. I eventually noticed that after abut 4 days of normal driving, the gauge would sometimes creep up a little above normal. I know this means it is overheating. I got curious and plugged in my X4 handheld from my other car into my LS to datalog do I could see coolant temps. they are reaching 260*+ under normal stop and go driving.

So I ask you.. should I replace the things I haven't yet? or what? I am getting pretty discouraged with this car. it is my DD and I can barely drive it without worrying I am damaging the engine.

Any help is appreciated. I need to fix this ASAP. :/
 
Okay, it looks like you weren't an exception to most of the rest of us after all. I'm sure you didn't need a water pump. I doubt that you need a DCCV or an aux pump either. What you do need to replace is covered here: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?91092-GenII-LS8-Cooling-System-Overhaul

(Your main problem is here: "-Plastic assembly/tubes behind thermostat housing that connects to heads", but you need to do all of it.)

Also, you have a gen II, so make sure you follow this bleeding procedure to the letter (including how you fill it): http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33004.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_142
 
Thank you for the insight! I will look into getting the parts I need to get that part of the cooling system addressed. Of couse, leave one weak link out and the whole system still goes to S*hit. Just our luck, right?
 
You may want to pressure test the system for any leaks / cracks in your coolant system that will cause overheating issue. This will save a lot of time as well if issue continues. I was in the same situation as you and found a lot of leaks including the heater core which wasn't fun to replace.
 
ycunderground said:
You may want to pressure test the system for any leaks / cracks in your coolant system that will cause overheating issue. This will save a lot of time as well if issue continues. I was in the same situation as you and found a lot of leaks including the heater core which wasn't fun to replace.
Click to expand...

Pressure testing can show leaks and save time, but be warned that it does not always. I (as have others) had a leak that I should figure out and no amount of pressure testing (engine hot, cold, and in between) would make it show up. It would only do it out on the interstate.
 
Update on this issue:

Well it looks like I will have to look elsewhere. I replaced the components recommended (plastic tubes behind thermostat housing, as well as the one going into the block, properly filled and bled it, and coolant temps are still peaking at 240*+ on stop and go driving. ambient temp outside was about 76* If I turn the heater on, temps drop about 12-15 degrees then they start to climb again a little. I had my SCT X4 plugged in and I was viewing coolant temps in real time.

Any other ideas? Im getting a little discouraged here.. Radiator? coolant temp sensors? :(

Car has no visible coolant leaks, and I can't smell coolant in the car or thru the A/C or Heater.

I also replaced the intake manifold gaskets while i was at it.
 
Is it pressurizing? Are you having to add coolant? Did you really replace everything?
Is the fan working correctly?

How about checking the temperature of the upper and the lower radiator hoses when the engine is running hot. Those two temps will tell us a lot.
 
I am pretty sure it is pressurizing. If I slowly remove the degas cap when it is warmed up, a lot of pressure gets released. Fan is working, because I can hear it on high when the car is running warm. I was a little low on coolant when I drained it to do the cross over tubes and intake manifold gaskets, but I chalked that up to it possibly leaking/burning off coolant out of potential cracks in the crossover tubes.

Another development:

I discovered the front of my radiator had a ton of crap in it (leaves, twigs, debris, ect) and I blew it out and removed as much as I could. The car is still running warm (~235* during stop and go traffic, but on the highway after about 6 miles, it drops to as low as 225*) this is, of curse after I cleaned out the front of the radiator.

Maybe I have a blockage in my radiator?
 
Possible. If you've replaced all of your cooling components and have followed the bleeding procedure accurately, then your radiator could be of fault. I would do as Joe advised and get the temperature readings of your upper and lower radiator hoses when the engine is hot. That should indicate a good or bad radiator.
 
Quite a number of us have experienced radiator failure (cracks). Hard to see them but mine was on the passenger side of the car. If you have the hood open, look past where the grille would be you'll see the radiator passenger side tank, that's exactly where mine was cracked. See if you can spot white residue there. I had a buddy of mine step on the gas while I looked there and could see the crack expand and antifreeze leak out, otherwise I would've never seen it. GL.
 
Right, there must be a crack or leak somewhere if it's still overheating. I recently changed my thermostat as well and it still was overheating, and come to find out, my radiator had a crack on it, and as soon as it was replaced, the overheating stopped.
 
Sorainzo1 said:
Right, there must be a crack or leak somewhere if it's still overheating. I recently changed my thermostat as well and it still was overheating, and come to find out, my radiator had a crack on it, and as soon as it was replaced, the overheating stopped.
Click to expand...
Did you replace the radiator yourself??
 
Ordered a new radiator to play it safe. Ill let you guys know what happens.
 
wow, thats either the greatest deal in the world, or scary cheap... hopefully time tells is as the prior option!
 
I have a 2005 Lincoln ls V8. I just has to do a complete revamp of my cooling system due to overheating issues. I replaced the degas bottle, thermostat, radiator, water pump, and was about to go in on the dreaded heater core when I fiiiinaaallllyyyy saw where the leak was coming from.

Attached to your thermostat housing is the coolant outlet pipe.. and attached to That is the pipe intake which I thought was all just one piece .. but it's not. That was cracked and leaking down my shaft to the middle of the car by the firewall. I couldn't for the life of me figure out where the leak came from. So a few hundred bucks later in parts, it came down to a $46 pipe.

I'm replacing any plastic and hoses that haven't been replaced yet. Hopefully this settles that.
 
BrilliantPsycho said:
I have a 2005 Lincoln ls V8. I just has to do a complete revamp of my cooling system due to overheating issues. I replaced the degas bottle, thermostat, radiator, water pump, and was about to go in on the dreaded heater core when I fiiiinaaallllyyyy saw where the leak was coming from.

Attached to your thermostat housing is the coolant outlet pipe.. and attached to That is the pipe intake which I thought was all just one piece .. but it's not. That was cracked and leaking down my shaft to the middle of the car by the firewall. I couldn't for the life of me figure out where the leak came from. So a few hundred bucks later in parts, it came down to a $46 pipe.

I'm replacing any plastic and hoses that haven't been replaced yet. Hopefully this settles that.
Click to expand...

Are you referring to the plastic pipes that go into the heads, or the one that goes down into the block?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 123 (members: 1, guests: 122)
Back
Top