2006 V8 LS Code P060B, P2104, P2110 issue.

[ycunderground]

Hello everyone,

I'm hoping someone could shine some light on my issue with my 06 V8 LS. I've been threw the forum and still can't find a solution. I've been threw a lot of issue and fixing with this car from a complete heater core change to DCCV, thermostat, all plastic housing for the cooling system, bearing replacement, egr/map sensor (these seem to be one unit), cleaning of MAF sensor, and multiple coil replacements. I've recently change to all new oem coils which was not cheap, I've changed the throttle body tps, and throttle body actuator. I've moved coils around and some how I still get these codes after sometime. The car would go into a limp mode not allowing any throttle response from the actuator. If I let the car sit for a day or two then I'm able to drive the car for a unknown time frame, could be days or recently a couple months before going into it's limp mode. I've tested it multiple times on the dyno and even tune the car which made some improvement on power which is another story. This issue has been sometime from a stock pcm map format even til now. I'm wondering if the PCM is causing this situation or if I need to purchase a oem throttle body setup instead of the repair kit. I've started the car today to move it and drove it around for sometime with an engine code which is funny cause most time with an engine code it would stay in limp mode. I would really like to get this figure out to start finishing some testing and bolt on part I made to test out to eventual share with this community. I think my next step should be to use oem spark plugs and see how that works out. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance.

 

[joegr]

threw ≠ through
Anyway, with code P060B, it might actually be the PCM, especially if you were using non-Motorcraft coils for a while. When you changed all the coils to OEM, did you change the spark plugs at the same time? If not, some of your new coils may already be bad. If you did, did you check and reset all the plug gaps to 1.0mm. (I know pre-gap'd, but there are always at least a few that are wrong.) I'd also say that most bets are off if the throttle body, actuator, and TPS are not all OEM. It's a picky car...

 

[ycunderground]

Thanks for your reply, yes I've alway used Motorcraft coil giving the fact about RF issue that are known. I've have not change the spark plugs yet this year giving the fact that I don't drive it much. So this weekend I'll change to motorcraft spark plugs and gap them to the recommend clearance. I will also try to source an PCM and oem throttle body if I can find one used before spending for a new one. Yes your correct about how picky these car are, I had this car since 06 when it first came out and has been good to me up until this year. Don't want to give up on it yet because I'm interested in playing with it on the performance aspect of things. I own a dyno shop which allows me in my free time, things to fab and play with for this baby v8. If you have any other recommendation base on these situation to try out just let me know. Thanks you joegr..

 

[1LoudLS]

I've have not change the spark plugs yet this year

bad coils kill good plugs, then bad plugs kill good coils... your new coils are probably toast (along with your old plugs)

So this weekend I'll change to motorcraft spark plugs and gap them to the recommend clearance.

see above*

I will also try to source an PCM and oem throttle body if I can find one used before spending for a new one.

warning, a new PCM wont work unless you have the right kind of computer to service the car (which you very well may have)

Don't want to give up on it yet because I'm interested in playing with it on the performance aspect of things.

I would start by building up the glass bottom end before getting too crazy with it... and Good Luck!

 

[Fundy1842]

Ugh, my heart just sank a little bit.

My new coils and plug pack just came today in the mail, and this is what I am doing tomorrow morning, in hope of remedying these codes myself.

Do you have any advice or guidance on removing the silver "thingy" that runs over the driver's side of the engine, so that I can open that side up? Do I need to drain or worry about making a spill of any kind on that side?

Thanks,

Branden

 

[1LoudLS]

so I take it by the "silver thingy" you have a V6? if so, its called the intake manifold, and your best course of action is to remove it

 

[1LoudLS]

wait a minute, drivers side of the engine? the intake manfold is over the pass side...

ive never had to remove anything over the drivers side to do coils and plugs, just the coil covers (and mine are black...)

perhaps a picture would help?

 

[1LoudLS]

or do you have a 1st gen 3.9 and are talking about this "silver thingy" just to the left of the left most drivers shock mount nut/stud

 

[Fundy1842]

I apologize, I must have misremembered, not surprisingly. It is a V8, last time I was under the hood, and took a look at the passenger side plugs, I just remembered wondering how the heck I was going to take all of the "thingys" over the driver's side off, to get to those plugs. I am mostly wondering if there is an order that I need to follow, or again, anything with fluid in it that I will need to be aware of.

I apologize for my ignorance of the parts, but this is the first I have really dug into the LS since I have had it... very lucky I know...

Thanks for all of your help.

Branden

 

[1LoudLS]

the only thing that is kinda in the way of the drivers side coil cover (the plugs are only under the coils, not the valve covers just in case...) is that one little hose in the middle of it... and you dont have to take anything else off, just remove the six 7mm bolts holding the coil cover on, and then slide it forward under that hose. the hardest part is getting the lower back bolt out and getting to the lower front bolt that is slightly blocked by the oil dip stick.

no fluid, no nothing... just remove 6 bolts, then remove the coil cover, then remove 4 bolts, then remove 4 coils, then remove 4 plugs, gap the plug, then reverse the process. then once your done with that side, go on to the next side and do the exact same thing. now you may want to unplug the vent tube (the larger accordion tube with a 90* connector at the valve cover and goes to the intake) to help allow you to slide the coil cover off.