228a/228b?

[upnorthLS]

Hey guys, would anyone happen to have a wiring diagram of the climate control system or know which plug is which? I've been having trouble with my a/c and in order to do more diagnostics I need to pull out the datc and check the plugs for resistance and power. I'm pretty sure it isn't the dccv cause it checks out between 10 and 23 ohms like the instructions say and it was replaced last year. I have rechecked it and some other tests and now I'm suspicious that it could be the datc. thanks for your help!

 

[jjcool00]

 

[jjcool00]

 

[upnorthLS]

thanks jjcool00, this will help big time

 

[joegr]

Did you measure the resistance between the solenoid terminals and the metal solenoid case? It should read as open. If not, it is indeed the DCCV again.

 

[upnorthLS]

I measured resistence between terminal 1-2 and then 2-3 as instructed in the shop manual. At least that's what I understood in the climate control system trouble shooting. It says to check theses and if it has 10-23 ohms that it is good? maybe I misunderstood?

 

[joegr]

I measured resistence between terminal 1-2 and then 2-3 as instructed in the shop manual. At least that's what I understood in the climate control system trouble shooting. It says to check theses and if it has 10-23 ohms that it is good? maybe I misunderstood?

Yes, but there's more to it than just that. You've got a code for a short to ground, so it would be good to check for a short to ground.

 

[upnorthLS]

So what you're suggesting is an internal short in the solenoid. I will check this and let you know. I am getting 2798 on the self test. when I used it yesterday, it worked fine for my short trip uptown. Then after shutting the car off for about 30 minutes, it blew hot air from pass. side and luke warm from driv. side. After reading in the manual, I figured the next step would be to pull the datc and check the plugs as per pinpoint tests, but I could be missing something. The pinpoint tests seem to be a bit misleading...:Bang

 

[upnorthLS]

I double checked the dccv and both 1/2 and 2/3 pins read app. 15 ohms. I also checked to see if there was anything between casing and pins and the results were 000..

 

[joegr]

I double checked the dccv and both 1/2 and 2/3 pins read app. 15 ohms. I also checked to see if there was anything between casing and pins and the results were 000..

A reading of 0 indicates a short.

 

[upnorthLS]

okay, so correct if I'm wrong but what you're saying is there should be continuity between the metal casing and the 2 outer pins?

 

[joegr]

okay, so correct if I'm wrong but what you're saying is there should be continuity between the metal casing and the 2 outer pins?

No, there should not. "0" indicates continuity (a short) which is bad in this case. The reading should have been over-range (or infinite or open) on a good valve.

Hold the two meter probes up in the air (not touching anything). The meter will now give its indication for over-range, infinite resistance, open circuit, no continuity. Now touch the two probes together. The meter will now give its reading for minimum resistance, full continuity.

 

[upnorthLS]

okay, that's what I thought. sounds to me like my valve is good... guess the next step is to check the datc as stated in shop manual. I'm kinda suspicios that is the problem cause it works great on first start up, cold on both sides but after you shut the car off or fiddle with the settings, it doesn't return to cold so the dccv must not be getting the right info from the datc. thanks for your help joegr! sorry about all the confusion..maybe I need a beer break...lol