24 lb injection (mite not have been a good idea)

thanks for response guys.

When i say "car runs rough" .... the following is a list of specifics:


Car idles at around 700 rpm-
it has a constant shudder to it-you can hear it almost hickup every 2-3 seconds. When this "hickup occurs" the idle drops and rises again 50-100 rpms.

Under very slight gas_when in drive on a hill for example- its not a smooth opening of the throttle like the first couple hundred rpms or so have a rough shudder and not smooth.

I DO NOT HAVE AN ADJUSTABLE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR-
fuel pressure was on the money when checked after install of 8 new injectors about a month ago.



*note-that when I go around a turn or go into a turn and try to give it WOT-it almost wants to die at first sometimes or will pull at say 60 percent-and than once the car is straigtened out again, a second or two later-its as if it steps up a notch to 100 percent pulling power.
VERY VERY WEIRD.




had a 190 fuel pump put in 6 months ago. with the correct sock on it for a lincoln mark vii-not a mustang.
I used to have the problem that when it got to 1/4 tank or less on hills-my car would have fuel starvation issues and want to die almost until the car levels out again.
I thought this issue was from having the wrong size sock-so i replaced the sock with the new pump assembly and I began having no issues driving under a 1/4 of a tank.
NOW THAT PROBLEM IS BACK AND I HAVE NO CLUE WHY-
it is as if.... the same issue prior to the new fuel pump is back.
the exact issue.
what gives?


thanks guys
 
Don't know whats up but I would make sure the plug wires are run right. Double check this both direction and HO firing order. Its happen to me in the past truck ran and drove but not real good. What dou know the wires where run wrong to two plugs.
 
I'm not gonna try and go through this whole thread and find if it's been posted, so...is the vacuum hose to the MAP sensor on the firewall hooked up to it? If it is, are you sure there are no cracks in the hose?
 
the firing order is correct.
I have tripple checked this in past few months.


The map sensor is new.
Hose has no cracks.

There are NO vac leaks.
 
It would be nice if I could keep the car from blowing up man.
I suppose that is my long term goal-keep it from exploding.
;)

I have been in mustang forums- still on here trying too.

Next step is running some sea foam through it-or another cleaner of some sort.
I am sure that after seeing what my ACT sensor looked like-its prbly "tell tale" signs that my valves are pretty built up with crud.

Looking back at all the sensors and valves I have replaced...
shame on me for not taking the advice I see all over this forum, (i.e oldschool) and running some SEA FOAM thru this S.O.B.

I have considered engine flushes, but I fear leaks will follow after flushing the life out of my 5.0.

shrug

sea foam standby...
 
i have been posting info in mustangforums

The following is a recent post-does this make sense?



Is your evap system venting correctly? I recently read an article where they were chasing a similar problem and it turned out the Evap system was plugging up thus starving the car either at idle, around corners (fuel sloshing into vent hole in tank) and at WOT where you end up with a vacuum in your tank that makes the pump work harder.... Try driving with the gas cap off for a drive cycle or two. Granted you may kick on a light for the cap but if everything gets better, check your evap system.

I'm not totally up to to 91 cars so I may be talkin out my arse on this one. The car that was in the article was a 2002 or a 2003 ford (OBDII)
 
When the gas cap(which is also the vent) gets clogged, on my dads john deer lawn mower the motor starves and stalls. The fuel tank will partially collapes. Leaving the cap alittle loose or replace it and it works fine. Did you try the cap off trick.
 
So i plan on removing the gas cap and driving for a bit when i get out of the studio tonight.
I just got that post in the mustangforums a few min. ago.
I currently have a new gas cap on there-brand new because I was rocked and left it at some gas station in jersey.

Is there any other components other than the cap in the EVAP SYstem that could be messing up.
I know nothing about this evap stuff-i never heard of it till now.

Shrug some more.
 
another detail left out

Cars MPG has dropped significantly and I feel like it has gradually gotten worst.

I used to get 22.8 or 23.8 mpg on the highway.
I am in the range of 16-18 mpg now on highway.
 
code 11 for system pass.
and the code relating to the smog pump removal. (i cant remember the number)

Took gas cap off last nite and tried driving-NO CHANGE IN ISSUES.

Ordered a container of SEAFOAM last nite-arrives in a week.

I really am about to go crazy.

What else can I throw at this SOB:
I have done:

ACT Sensor
Coolant Temp Sensor
TPS
EGR
IAC
8 ford racing injectors
cap rotor wires plugs(motorcraft)
alternator
voltage regulator
battery
map sensor
replaced many vac lines
fuel filter
fuel pump 190lph
new fuel tank
both o2 sensors
rebuilt rear with 355's
rebuilt trans with shift kit
cold air intake-fenderwall
kybs all around
air bags out back replaced
head gasket
fan clutch
new radiator hoses
new thermostat
new water pump
rotors- pads and calibers
new brake lines
sway bar linkage
bushings all over.
two front lower control arms.
ball joints
 
update

I was going over the ignition system again...
and i noticed a vibration from two spark plugs through the wire attached.
They were loose.
My fault.
I tightened them.
I also pulled the two loose ones and few random others-
they all looked good.

Usteady idle still exists.

I ran a 1/3 can of seafoam in gas tank.
I put 1/3 can in crank case.
(i did not put a 1/3 can in vac line)
Drove the car around with high rpm's for at least 80 plus miles today-
I mite drain the oil tom. or I mite run it for a bit longer.
I feel like the car is running smoother but still all problems occuring with the unsteady idle-just slight hickup still and stumbles here and there while driving.
 
no change.

few days after sea foaming.
no difference.

I notice the car runs more sluggish after it warms up.

still has all the same issues.
 
Update-
Car runs without any hesitation-or any flat spots or that funny idle when it is RUN COLD.
As in-not warmed up.

Tried running it cold to see difference instead of waiting for car to warm like i almost always do.

amazing how it as it warms up (with in 5-10 min) it gets sluggish-looses power-starts to idle with that hickup and has the flat spots here and there.
All that is pretty much non existant it seems when the car is cold.

Does that help any more with my code"less" issues.

I NEED HELP.
IF anybody is in NYC TRI STATE AREA and you want a few beers or something or even cash.
let me know.
i need a long term mark vii enthusiast to assist with this.
 
****I was having a major problem with not being able to fill up past the 3/4 full range in my gas tank. And it would stutter and starve for fuel when below the quarter mark.
I thought possibly that with the weak air bag up front-was causing the gas to sit off balance due to the weak air springs.
So sure enough after doing the install I was able to fill up the tank to the full mark.
It was great.-standby to hear news on wether or not it still slips and starves below a quarter of a tank.


Car still has no codes and it has screwy idle and stumbles sometimes at different points in power band.
 
Some things to check.
Is your TPS set at 0.98vdc when measured between the green and black wires with the key on? If not adjust it by turning the screw under the throttle body. If you can't bring it into range you may need to elongate the holes in the TPS sensor to get it in spec.
Is your engine harness grounded? Somewhere on the drivers rear side of the engine harness under the intake plenum you should be able to locate an orange wire with a lug on it attached to engine ground (not chassis). If this is missing broken or disconnected you will have problems.
Also, I would check to make certain you don't have the O2 sensors hooked up backwards ie left and right. It really confuses the ECM when it doesn't see the proper response after it makes changes to the pulse width of the injector on a given side of the motor. You need to know the wire colors to verify this. I have had this happen to me.
The white and black engine harness connectors pins need to be tightened up. You can use a jewelers screwdrivers set to tweak the pins. See fordfuelinjection.com for more info on this and lots of other good knowledge.
Intake gasket leaking?

After doing anything like this, disconnect the battery and turn your headlight switch on for 30 seconds to clear the computers memory (should).

I'll try and think of some more things to check.

After you ran rich with the 24lbers did you replace the plugs if they were fould out? Just a thought.
 
thanks for insight

I changed out all the silly plat plus 4 bosch plugs out of block after I swapped in the new 19 lb injectors.
I have pulled random plugs since them with zero signs of anything.
TPS voltage has been checked numerous times-A O K

The car ran better after O2 sensor install-but still had hesitation before and after-along with the flat spots before and after. So i dont think the o2's have anything to do with these issues. sigh.

My mechanic suggested to me that I change out the EGR AGAINNNNN- because he claims that the EGR should be Motorcraft and not aftermarket- because of the specific nature of that part- IDK what to think about that.
I am gonna check to see if it is a motorcraft part-i really do not remember.

I am going to check wires anyway like you suggested on the O2's.

This is all A REAL PITA
 
Just curious what plugs do you have in it and what are they gapped to?
IMO anything fancier than an Autolite Copper 25 plug in a 5.0 is a waste of money and doesn't perform as well. I set the gap to .045.
 
Installed new motorcraft plugs-
checked the gap and they were all on money @ .050

I dont think the plugs are the corporate
 
update

EGR is not motorcraft-however different heads think differently about this.

I am not changing it just yet.

About a week ago-just before snow storm-I got a CHECK ENGINE LIGHT to flash on and off here and there-and when it was flashing on and off-I felt as if the car shuddered, stumbled, lost power.

I have to wait till this weekend to scan it and see what it spits out.

It is still stumbling during acceleration.

NEW FINDING-under slight acceleration-it stumbles and is choppy.
And when it warms up-cold engine starts-the car normally will rev up to 12-1300 range, than it normally settles to 600 range to idle,-it will not hold a steady rev @ the 1200, instead it revs real choppy and can not hold steady.
Lots of hickups.
 
Progress*^%@#$%^&^%$#$%^

Update:

New ignition module has solved the idle issue-ALMOST-its 80 percent smoother.
still a slight roll-but not nearly as violent and almost not noticeable.

Car still has flat spots and will even backfire sometimes-it feels like under WOT there is a balloon inflating that does not pull hard- I KNOW THAT SOUNDS WEIRD-BUT THATS WHAT IT FEELS LIKE. LIKE THERE IS A BALLOON NEARLY FULL THAT WILL NOT TAKE AIR AS FAST AS IT DOES WHEN THE BALLOON STARTS TO INFLATE FROM NOTHING>
THATS WHAT MY ACCELERATION BAND FEELS LIKE.
AND SOMETIMES IT WILL EVEN BACKFIRE.

About to sell it im fed up.
power steering is now pissing all over-but thats a whole nother story
 
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