4.25" to 4.5" Bolt Circle Change on the "Inexpensive"

DieselDan

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Hey guys,

This has been covered here and there in different threads, but for all of the hardcore searching I have done, it hasn't all been covered in one place at once yet. I am not finished yet, but will be soon. I would like this to serve as almost a 'how-to' on how to easily change your car over to a 4.5" bolt circle so you can use Mustang Wheels.

What you will need:
1 - Hub Drill Jig / 1/4" and 39/64" drill bits. Found Here! he also sells on eBay.
1 - Spare tire with 4.50" bolt circle.
2 - Hub Centric Rings - I bought mine HERE. 63.9mm Hub, 70.4mm Wheel inner hub size.
2 - 94-04 Mustang Front Hubs.
4 - Mustang wheels of your choice.
10 - Lug Studs (I found the Dorman 610-368 to be the proper dimensions for the drilled rear hubs.)
20 - 1/2-20 Lug Nuts.


Either re-use your current front and rear brakes, or swap to a mustang set. That has been covered elsewhere.


First you need to get your hands on a good quality drill jig for the rear hubs. You can also swap to Cobra rear hubs, but that is not "inexpensive". Its a lot of extra work as far as I'm concerned and I'm not really worried about it.
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Next is the "work" part. You need to drill 5 1/4" holes, followed by a 39/65" hole. The jig will make sure you drill perfectly square and evenly spaced.
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Use a LOT of oil for the drill bit, and slow speed while using a decent amount of pressure on the drill.
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Put something under the hub to catch the shavings, there will be A LOT! It does take maybe 10 minutes to do each hole? Maybe less. I had to resharpen my 39/64" bit because it would get chipped up right as I punched thru the hub, so make sure you have a way to sharpen the bits yourself.

You just repeat the same process for the opposite side of the car.
Now because I'm a Mechanic at heart, and "cheap" I use Junk Yard parts when possible and safe.

A pair of front hubs can either be bought online for a 94-04 mustang for about $40-$50 a piece, for a good brand, OR $14.99 at the local Junk yard.
I bought this original OEM pair of Hubs for less than $32 with good dust caps.
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You can also get your new rear wheel studs for about $20-$40, depending on where you buy them. I just grabbed these from an 07 Junkyard mustang for the low price of Free. You will need 10.
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Also, you will want to pick up a 16" or 17" spare from a Mustang, Crown Vic, Town Car, or Gran Marquis with the 4.5" bolt circle. I picked this 17" Mustang Spare at the JY from a 2007 car for $9.
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Once you have drilled the hubs, knock out the 10 Old rear studs with a sturdy hammer. Next, install your 10 new rear studs with your new rear cobra brake setup, or your redrilled stock setup.
Options for rear brakes can be found below:
11.65 Cobra rear Brakes
DLF's Brake Article


Your Front hubs will need to be swapped. For this you will need to remove the front dust covers and then remove the 36mm nut that holds the hub on. You simply slide the old hub off, and slide on the new Mustang Hub. You can then either reinstall your redrilled front rotors to keep your stock brakes, go with a 13" Cobra setup, or a 10.1 Mustang GT setup.

I will add more pictures and information to this article in the near future.
 
Any particular reason you don't take the rotors off when you drill the rears?

Would be that much less steel you would have to drill thru by hand is my thought.
 
if he plans on keeping the stock rear brakes for a while, it would benefit him to drill all the holes in one go.
 
if he plans on keeping the stock rear brakes for a while, it would benefit him to drill all the holes in one go.

Yeah that sounds good to me. Even though I got a set of Cobra rims in Mark Pattern I am hating how small they make my rotors look now :(
 
great "how-to" DD...how do you remove those dust covers without jamming a flat head into the side?
 
Any particular reason you don't take the rotors off when you drill the rears?

Would be that much less steel you would have to drill thru by hand is my thought.

Cast iron drills easy. Hub not so much. This gives you a nice easy to drill pilot holes. Plus you have to drill them anyway. 2 birds 1 stone.
 
I ended up buying 10 new lug nuts and studs from Autozone for an 04 Mustang.

Studs:part Number: 610-368.1 / Alternate Part Number: 98220 / Application: Rear

Nuts: Part Number: 611-071.1 / Alternate Part Number: 98917 / Cap nut. Stainless. 1 15/32" wheel nut length.

The rear was simple to swap once the new holes were drilled with the jig. You just remove the rear brake caliper and rotor. I chose to remove my dust shields, but you can leave them on. Then, smack your studs with a hammer (and punch) to knock them out the back side. They take a bit of wiggling, but they will come out.

Pic taken after knocking out my old studs.
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I ground a small flat on the studs, just so that they cleared the knuckle a tiny bit better.
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I used a nut, 3 washers and grease to pull the studs into the hub. Did not take too much effort, my 3/8" DeWalt had enough grunt to pull them almost all the way thru, some required use of a ratchet to finish pulling them in.
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All installed...
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Wheels installed with my hub-centric rings
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18" x 8.5 50mm offset
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Now for the fronts. The fronts are much simpler. The only "hard" part is drilling the front rotors if you are keeping the stock brakes.

Start by removing your wheel and caliper/rotor.

Next you will need to remove the front dust cover. I used a small pry bar and a hammer to get them out enough to pry them out. Next, remove your stock hubs and set them aside. Slide the Mustang hubs on and relighting the 36mm hub nut. Then install the dust cover with a mallet, I prefer to hit the flat on the front to seat it evenly.

Rotors drilled to 4.50", again using the hub jig and the original hub. Drilling them like this is much better than on the car.
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Then install your new wheels, after tightening down the caliper.
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Total cost:
$200 for 3 wheel/tire assemblies from the junk yard.
$117 for eBay 4th wheel.
$87 for eBay used tire.
$100 hub jig.
$28 studs/nuts.
$14 junk yard hubs.
Total: $532
-$120 set of wheel cores I sold.
-$75 resale hub jig.
-$300 sell old wheels. (Haven't sold yet, but considering worst case)
Grand Total: $51

Sounds good to me!

Hope this article is useful to someone!
 
I want to update my totals, now that I have actually sold my stuff.

4 wheels 18" 235/50z18 : $400
2 used mustang front hubs : $28
1 5x4.5" hub jig : $100
Wheel studs / nuts / spacers : $40
Total : $568

Minus
Wheel Cores : -$120
Sold Octis : -$395
Sold Jig : -$75
Total : -$595

Meaning, I made $27 to change to sweet wheels. Very Happy!
 
I had cores for the junk yard to return, 4 old junk corvette wheels. Instead of taking them back to the yard for a $45 credit, I craigslisted them and got $120 for them. They wanted to cores for aluminum scrap.
 
I can't imagine using a hand drill - but the jig makes it look easy. Why did you remove the dust cover?

Everything sounded good but when I read it again, I'm not a fan of using a hammer to knock out wheel studs. It could be bad for the wheel bearings - or so I've been taught.
 
forgive me for sounding foolish, but what exactly are 'hub centric' rings? if the holes are drilled correctly which is why you use a jig then what? also whats the difference in 99-04, vs 05-12 hubs? when searching for rims, the 05+ rims in 18"X 10" (and others) the backspacing was always spot-on.
 
I just know that 94-04 hubs are what fits the mark.

The purpose of the rims being hub centric is so that te stub helps bear the load on the wheel, rather than the lug studs supporting all the load. The rings are supposed to help with that. Do I think a plastic hub ring is going to bhelp bear any load? No, but it looks nice that I tried!
 
Do I think a plastic hub ring is going to bhelp bear any load?

They help but they do not last. I have the hub rings on my '96 and after a while the wheel/tire balance issues drive me crazy. The only real way to do it is to match the hub diameter to the correct wheels as was done on my '93.
 
They help but they do not last. I have the hub rings on my '96 and after a while the wheel/tire balance issues drive me crazy. The only real way to do it is to match the hub diameter to the correct wheels as was done on my '93.

My alum rings are no different then the rim itself. I would never use plastic either.
 

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