AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
So the guy in the thread said 3.5 but the YouTube video guy said and shows 5 quarts for a pan dropYup. And IME 8 quarts is about right.
So the guy in the thread said 3.5 but the YouTube video guy said and shows 5 quarts for a pan dropYup. And IME 8 quarts is about right.
The guy in the video puts 5 quarts in and just let's it drain out until it goes to a steady bead drippingYup. And IME 8 quarts is about right.
The guy in the video puts 5 quarts in and just let's it drain out until it goes to a steady bead dripping
While I have no proof of this...
I think when the pan is pulled, some of the fluid drains out of the converter.
The 5r55 series transmission supposedly holds 12.7 quarts, (based on recent internet search), with 7 of those quarts going for the torque converter.
That leaves 5.7 quarts in the pan WITHOUT pulling the plug to do a level check. At that point it doesn't seem worth it to pull the fill plug to do a level check... because it's only going to get lower if one let's it drain until it stops dribbling.
I'd try pumping 2 quarts into it and see how it acts. My guess is even then it will still be a little low... though the flow from the level check plug might not indicate that.
You were both right it was really low just put 3 more quarts in and it finally started to come out ...the only problem is it's still stalling ...I'm letting it run as I type ...just disconnect battery again and I'm going to let it run a good while so the transmission an get good and hot with the proper amount of fluid ...04' that is really disheartening if I can't rely on the check level plug ...it was drizzling out really good after adding the fluid and I allowed it to keep drizzling until it looked like a steady drip beadI don't think you've done any damage yet. Low fluid has been reported to cause engine stalls.
it was drizzling out really good after adding the fluid and I allowed it to keep drizzling until it looked like a steady drip bead
The first time... or the 2nd time. Hopefully the 2nd time, you added the 3 quarts and just put the plug in without letting it dribble out.
I filled it today for the second time ...I walked away from it last night when I told you it seemed low....its still stalling out when I shift it into D5 and no reverse still ...I still get no codes ...I tried calling the place where I bought the solenoid pack and didnt get an answer but the company called me back and said I can send it back any time and they're willing to help me get this transmission working...what a great company ....I'm thinking it's time to call my mechanic and have him send it out to his transmission crew ...due to the fact the engine stalling and I still have no reverse I'm passing the baton to the experts now lolIs it shifting through all the gears properly now?
AfterGM had a problem with this in the 80's. Torque converter clutch would not disengage when the vehicle came to a stop... causing the vehicle to stall. I don't remember if the fix was a computer update, or a torque converter replacement.
Is this a symptom your LS had before you changed the solenoid pack... or did it develope after you changed the solenoid pack?
No I didnt check the DTR alignment because I didn't remove the DTR component...I did remove the shift cable bracket ...had yo in order to take out the Solenoid pack connector ...but I left that DTR component in place...but am I hearing you right? Are you saying that if I remove the shift cable and the bracket holding it....that can misalign the DTR componentDid you double check the DTR alignment?
When you reconnected the shift cable... did the cable line up with the arm on the trans... or did you have to move the arm to line up with the cable???
When you reconnected the shift cable... did the cable line up with the arm on the trans... or did you have to move the arm to line up with the cable???
Well the arm is attached to the rooster comb... So if the arm moves... The rooster comb will too.
So when you re-attached the shifter cable... did the cable line up with the arm... or did you have to move the arm to line up with the cable???
I guess you're right we were on different pages from the start ...the part that I sent a picture to you in the beginning of this thread is a pic of the Rooster Comb ...the part with the writing on it....As far I could tell the Rooster CombUnless I'm missing something...
The rooster comb is mounted to a shaft that rotates. That shaft passes through the transmission case... and has an external arm that attaches to the shifter cable.
Every time you move the shifter one position in the car... It moves the rooster comb one notch, (detent). This is how the different gears are selected as you move the shifter in the car.
Sounds like you and I have not been talking about the same "arm" from the beginning of this conversation.
It's possible that the arm the shifter cable attaches to might not be adjusted properly now... and not matching up with the DTR position... causing the transmission to be confused about what it is supposed to be doing.