93 Mark VIII Serious Heating Issues

B

bigshow1122

New LVC Member
Joined
Dec 20, 2007
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Location
Terre Haute
Hello everyone,

I pre-apologize if this is in the wrong "area" of the forum. I am a new member to the forum from Indiana. I recently purchased a 93 lincoln mark VIII with 72,000 miles for a hair over $2,000 ( Will post pictures later) Anyhow, I bought it knowing it needed a new water pump. Anyhow, water pump change went smooth and I am attempting to get this crossover tube cap off. Let me tell you, I am a pretty big guy 6'3 260 and I am having the most hell of a time getting it off. I have tried Vice grips and the 1/4 socket like I have read on here which has been advised before. I have a good size pipe wrench I would love to put on there and try to get it off with but I am honestly afraid I might damage it putting that much torque on it. Should I be? Next to drilling and tapping like I have read also, is there any other way. I would be afraid drill shavings or something would fall into the cooling system and cause larger problems. Ok, now for the slaying I am going to get from you all. I filled from the reservoir and continued to while it was running to check the water pump for leaks. I have done this about 10 times and still managing to get air out of it but the temp guage peaks at about the very tip of the normal line almost going into red. I am wanting to get this cap off and do it right. Worst case scenerio what would happen if I start really going and applying elbow grease to the cap with the pipe wrench? Thanks for reading:(
 
Just FYI, that cap is just that, not the entire port. I am sure you know that, but I have SEEN some people crank on the whole port.

This makes getting a plumber's wrench on there really hard, but its what I used.

If you get if off, do not put it on too tight. YOur not holding that much pressure back, less than 16 psi.

As for running it with out burping it right, you are asking for BIG problems! Do not do that, get the air out by filling it the RIGHT way :)

The temp sensor may not even be submerged in coolant, in which case you will get a lower reading (since its reading the air temp) and your actual engine temp may be MUCH higher.

Just try the pipe wrench. If its a no go then you may want to try heating it up to break it free. Oh, and try tightening it before you loosen it, I have had a great number of bolts that did not come free. But I would try to tighten then further, just a bit, then they came free.
 
LOl

I hate to ask, but it does go like a normal nutt right and not reverse threads or anything? Also, have you ever heard of anybody breaking the neck off of this or anything? I am just wanting to take into consideration....worst case scenerio. Anyhow, thanks for replying!:)
 
Yep, they do break them off on occasion. I would use some really good penetrating oil and leave it soak overnight. And spray it more than once. Then if it still does not come off, try heating the pipe around it. And remember to use anti-seize on it when you put it back on.
 
yep

I have had a problem for a while, I always seem to find a way to break bolts off lol. Lug nuts, brake bleeder valve you name it. I tried turning the nut with a 1/4 ratchet but I thought i was going to break it. I will be a %R$#@%@#$ if I am going to break my snap on ratchet on something like this. theres got to be a better way :) I am almost wondering if it has ever been removed. Being with the low miles the car has I am thinking that. :eek:
 
one more thing

futhermore, you think it would be worthwhile to go ahead and heat it up a tad with a torch before trying with the pipe wrench? If nothing else, should just make unscrewing it a bit easier am I right. Or is there something that it could do to that nutt that I really dont want to happen?
 
Yes, like I said you can try some heat on there. It may help a lot or not at all. Just remember, hot metal is softer :D
 
Quit being a girlie man.:p

Spray some PB Blaster, let it soak, overnight is good.

Apply a pipe wrench to the threaded portion only.
Put a cheater bar over the end of the pipe wrench and pull very slowly counterclockwise (lefty loosey, righty tighty).

If you are firmly locked on to only the threaded portion that just sticks out slightly, it will grudgingly come.

A little heat may also be necessary but not always.
 
Oh my

:D lol....Don't take this to heart
But either I am going to be cussin you all tommorow or thanking you...

Either I am gonna have a car to drive to work
or I am catchin the bus at 6 a.m just to catch the train at 6:30 to make it to work by 7 lol.

If you see smoke around the Indiana area you know it didn't go well. God knows I really don't want to hear the wife if this doesn't go well.
"I told you just to take it to the shop"
oh......................good grief :)
 
I know where this thread is headed.... "Guys, you'll never guess. I got all the air out, but it still over heats!"

Not poking fun are YOU bigshow, but that sentences comes up a lot. So to save you some grief in case you did not read up on this a lot.

When you finally get that damn thing off, make sure the expansion tank has its cap on tight and pour in coolant at the crossover tube. Then just place the cap back and turn it enough so it does not pop off. No need to tighten.

Then start the car for a few seconds, DO NOT REV IT, that will create foam.

Take the cap off and fill again. Keep doing the above until it seems to stay full.

Then start rocking the entire car back and fourth, more air that was a little trapped will come up. No need to start it up though, just rock and fill, repeat until no more air comes up.

Then start it again to ensure the last of the air is out.

At this point there is still air, but so little it will not inhibit the flow of coolant through the cross-over tube. So its very drivable, however, I recommend taking it out for a spin on a bumpy road within a few days of doing all this to rock any air pockets out. Then in about a week all you have to do it fill up the crossover if there is any air - not need to do any of the above, just top it off.
 
MonsterMark said:
Quit being a girlie man.:p

Spray some PB Blaster, let it soak, overnight is good.

Apply a pipe wrench to the threaded portion only.
Put a cheater bar over the end of the pipe wrench and pull very slowly counterclockwise (lefty loosey, righty tighty).

If you are firmly locked on to only the threaded portion that just sticks out slightly, it will grudgingly come.

A little heat may also be necessary but not always.
Click to expand...

+1
and why are you scared to break a ratchet it's free replacement
I have broken many tools or modified them to make them work
I then go to sears and trade for a new one
and yes I am one of them craftsman people I like them more than snap-on
 
Well then i'll add that you should also turn your heater on high to move as much coolant thru there as possible, thus adding in the bubble search.

Right now you have an air pocket on your thermostat which is why you are seeing the high temps.
 
Hey Unity! Does filling up the coolant very, very slowly help to stop air pockets forming? That method has worked for me in other cars, but havent tried it yet on this reverse flow system.
 
Its a constant flow heater core, so no need to turn heat on really. Unlike the cars of old, like my 74 Mark IV, there is no flow control valve. The core is hot no matter what.

Blue: I dont think so. The only "problem" with this system is the air pockets. I dont think filling is really slow will do anything.

I cant even count how many times I have filled a Mark VIII with collant. Between my 95 beater (hate to call a Mark that) and my 96 with engine swap. Anyway, the "method" I recommend it nothing new, just from experience. The biggest thing that gets air out is rocking then taking it off-roading :D
 
Thank you everyone for the advice!!!!!!!!!!!(Other than the craftsman person :)........) Just Kidding. You guys are very helpful, and being the first forum I have really been dedicated to this is making for a good time. Thank you all kindly
 
Also!!!!!!!!!!!! One more thing...Is the silver anti seize ok? I bought it from fastenal but thats all i could find. It's made for bolts and stuff but I wasn't sure if it was ok to use heaven for bid some get into the cooling system-Althought I don't plan on globbing it on there. Thanks
 
It should be fine, just enough to paint the threads. And as said before, dont tighten it too much.
 
nice thing is its easy to pull the crossover tube, if something were to happen, one or two connectors (depending on what gen) and then 2 nuts then pull like hell
 
Much Appreciated!

Ladies and Gentleman,
I would like to extend my thanks for all the reply's and help! After 1 ratchet and heat applied to it, the channel locks prevailed. Everything went wonderfully and I couldn't be happier. She's really staying cool now, I am barely up over a 1/4 on the temp guage but blows heat like hell. It's things like this that make this place more and more interesting to me.
MY DEEPEST THANKS!;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 87 (members: 1, guests: 86)
Back
Top