98 Continental Suspension question

eightiesgod

eightiesgod

LVC Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2004
Messages
26
Reaction score
0
Location
Youngstown
Truly hoping someone can answer this question; my 98 has the rear air ride suspension that is original and works fine, but the shocks in the rear are original as well with over 178,000 miles on them too. I would like to change them but they are the electronic controlled ones that let you select Firm, Normal or Plush ride.

My question is if I just used a regular set of shocks and didn't get the electronic ones you plug in, would my air ride still work? The air springs are separate from the shocks and in theory I would assume that I just would not be able to select the ride quality and basically drive in a default style mode, or does the system require the electronic shocks which are quite expensive, like triple the price of normal base style shocks. Would I harm the system in any way by just unplugging the shocks to see? I certainly am not looking for trouble. Also, if you can do that one would assume that the warning lights would sound every time I turned the car on. Would there be a way to override that function? Any knowledge or suggestions are welcome, thank you much

SSPX0102.jpg
 
Nice Conti. I don't think there would be any harm in just taking the connector off from the shocks and see if your air ride still works. That would be the first step I would do to see if it is connected with the air ride system.
 
The shocks and the air are separate. The suspension computer monitors the rate of motion and will firm up the shocks during their travel to dampen harsh movements. So far my research has shown that the shocks are "soft" when energized and "firm" with no voltage. I was going to disconnect my shocks to see just how "firm" that can be, and maybe to see if it would benefit me to have some sort of manual control over that setting.

I'll dive into that in the next few weeks when the temps get more conducive to outside work!
 
I agree with MooJohn that they look separate. Voltage to them makes them "soft" and no voltage makes them "firm". Since the conversion kits mention getting rid of the warning message I figure that unplugging them will give you that warning light that you mentioned in your post.
Looking at the wiring diagrams it looks like there is just two wires going to each shock. One voltage supply and the other going to ground. If the system did recognize that the shock it unplugged them it must monitor the voltage that it is sending. One solution could be jumpering the connection but I would be worried that without the resistance of the solenoid too much voltage would flow to ground and maybe damage the VDM.

Here is more info from the manual on how the system works:
Dual Action System

The suspension system incorporates a rear load leveling system that maintains the vehicle at the proper ride height under varying conditions of vehicle load, and an optional road calibrated suspension ride control system that varies the damping of the shock absorbers between soft and firm.

The rear load leveling system uses air springs to support the vehicle weight. The quantity of air in the rear air spring is controlled by the vehicle dynamic module (VDM) to maintain a predetermined vehicle ride height. Each air spring has an air spring solenoid to control air flow into and out of each air spring.

The optional ride control system uses four shocks with electronically controlled actuators. The shock actuators are internally mounted on the lower bodies of the front spring and shock assemblies and the rear shocks. The action of the shock actuators is controlled by the VDM. The VDM sends a signal to an appropriate shock actuator which switches to either soft or firm damping. Normally the shock actuator setting is in a soft, luxury car mode. This is done by causing an electric current flow through the actuator, which induces electromagnetic force that moves the shock actuator from a firm to a soft position. When driving situations require, the setting is switched to a firm, high performance control mode. This is done by removing power to the actuator, allowing the shock actuator to return to the firm mode.

The shock actuators are not replaced separately. If testing indicates an actuator failure, the entire shock absorber must be replaced.

Vehicle Dynamic Module

A microprocessor controls the air suspension and ride control systems. The microprocessor and its support hardware are contained in the vehicle dynamic module (VDM). It responds to signals from various sensors in the vehicle to maintain the desired ride height while the vehicle is either moving or stopped. It accomplishes this by opening and closing solenoid valves (5311). It also turns on the compressor through the compressor relay or opens the vent solenoid in response to signal inputs from the air suspension height sensor. It also controls the shock actuators, if equipped.

Normally, the VDM uses a 45-second averaging interval to determine when fill and vent operations are needed. However, door switch signals' inputs can override the 45-second averaging interval so fill and vent operations can begin immediately, if needed.

Air Suspension Service Switch

The air suspension service switch provides the system enable signal to the vehicle dynamic module in the ON position only.

Air Compressor

The compressor contains a thermal overload circuit breaker. The circuit breaker automatically resets after a cool down period and after being tripped by excessive compressor motor heat.

The air compressor assembly consists of the compressor pump, electric motor, and vent solenoid (must be installed as an assembly).

Air Suspension Height Sensor

The air suspension height sensor (5359) provides a continuous voltage signal corresponding to vehicle ride height. For instance, when the sensor is fully compressed, the voltage signal sent to the vehicle dynamic module (VDM) is 4.5 volts. When the sensor is fully extended, the voltage signal to the vdm is 0.5 volt.

Each one of the air suspension height sensors measures the actual difference between known reference points so that the VDM can respond to variations in ride height.

If the wheel speed and travel are above a predetermined level, the shock actuators are switched to the firm position. This reduces the chance of grounding out the suspension when traveling over rough road surfaces.

Body roll during extended, high lateral-force turns (freeway exits) are also neutralized to prevent unwanted leveling actions at these times.

Air Spring Solenoid Valve

Never rotate an air spring solenoid valve to the release slot in the end cap fitting until all pressurized air has escaped from the spring to prevent damage or injury.

The air spring solenoid allows air to enter and exit the air spring during leveling corrections. The air spring solenoid valve is electrically operated and controlled by the VDM.

Vent Solenoid

The vent solenoid allows air to escape from the system during venting corrections. The vent solenoid is located in the air compressor cylinder head and shares a common electrical connector with the motor. The vent solenoid is enclosed in the cylinder head casting, which forms an integral vent solenoid housing that allows the vent solenoid tip to enter the pressurized side of the system. Air leakage past the vent solenoid tip is prevented by an O-ring seal.

When it is determined that a corner of the vehicle is high, the vent solenoid opens to provide an escape route for the pressurized air. The vehicle will not lower unless the air spring solenoid is also opened to allow air to leave the springs.
 
Just wondering why you are going to replace your shocks. Is it because of the mileage or is it a ride issue?

I replaced my shocks recently on my 99 Continental which has the semi active suspension. I had 150,000 miles on them and was told by an alignment shop that they needed to be replaced because, although they were not leaking, the rubber bushings were worn out. I also asked them about the rear ball joints because I thought that they might be the cause of the clunking that I was hearing. They said that they were good. I tried filling the bushing space up with silicone which actually worked quite well. The noise remained though. So after more shock research from sites like these: http://youtu.be/BiW0ISi8N-w ,I determined that I needed them. I replaced them at a cost of $300 and the ride was the SAME. Then after more research I learned how to check out ball joints more thoroughly and found that they had a lot of slop in them. I replaced the rear ball joints and the noise improved noticeably. Though better, the clunking noise still persists. The stabilizer links and bushings are good since I replaced them before moving on to the shocks and ball joints. I am at a loss to the cause of the noise and am still living with it. I cannot find any worn parts or bushings.
 
One can get new electronic struts and shocks at rockauto. The rear horizontal stabilizer shocks probably only at Ford.

There are a few threads on here discussing the clunking in the trunk. From loose exhaust to loose tail lights.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I too am searching for the clunking, thus the questions. It is very annoying in an otherwise nice car; I see I am not alone in this endeavor. I was really hoping to improve my ride quality. You have really given me something else to look over regarding the rear ball joints. Thank you much. I hope more of the search can be answered.

By the way, where exactly did you use and put the silicone?
 
I used the silicon on the top of the shock, where it enters the trunk through the wheel well. You could also just remove the nut and add some more rubber or washers to fill the space if your bushings have shrunk. When I used the silicone, I didn't know how to remove the dampener.

Incidentally, there is a TSB on your vehicle I believe about noise from the suspension. The fix is a mass dampener that they added in 99 to the top of the shock. It is basically a five pound weight that replaces the nut on the top end of the shock. Whether they actually help or not I don't know since my car has them and still the clunk remains.
 
The usual liquid fix for bushings & grommets is 3M Window Weld urethane, because it's the same thing the bushings are made of and should have similar characteristics.
 
So I can access the shock from the wheel well in the trunk then? If not, I assume I have to remove the back tire? Please forgive my ignorance; I appreciate all suggestions.

Also I am tempted to buy a 265,000 mile 98 Conti from a guy who used it as a daily driver for 4 years and did all of his "own work" to keep it going for like a thousand dollars. The engine sounds as good as my 179,000 mile on that is garaged. Should I go for it, I figured it would be a great winter beater in the cold North East with it's front wheel drive; your thoughts please.:) I could also use it to "experiment" on.

How do you use the window weld btw? Thanks.
 
It's like household caulk - you stick the tube in a gun, squeeze the handle, and you're done. There are lots of Youtube videos showing how to use it on engine mounts.

On the beater, the real weak point on these cars is the transmission. If it hasn't been touched in those 265k miles you can bet it will need it and that can be $3k+ to have rebuilt. These cars didn't get the upgraded trans cooler until 99 (or 00, I forget). Seeing mileages like that though makes me more confident that my own car has another decade or more left to go with no real issues (my trans is freshly rebuilt, new torque converter).
 
You can access the top of the shock from the trunk. If you just wanted to add the Window Weld to the top bushing you could probably do it. You have to remove the top liner then pull the sides away. Kind of a pain to get at though and if you have the mass dampers then your not gonna be able to remove them. The shock needs to come out to get them off. Removing the shocks is pretty easy. Jack up the car and support the frame, let the suspension hang. Remove tire, disconnect the electrical plugs from the shocks, remove bottom bolt and two top bolts and out it comes. You may have to remove the rotor, I can't remember. You'll also have to compress the shock a little to get it out.
 
Very nice Continental, clean and well kept. :Beer
If I were you, I would buy the second Lincoln for a winter car. Keep this one stored. If its in good shape and had the trans done, you will be good.
I keep mine stored for the winter as well. It's been in the family since '01.

(Not to hijack your thread) What part of Youngstown are you from? I'm around the same vicinity.
 
Currently I am an eastsider.....and I bet that I waited to long to get that other Conti. I am going to write him and see....Cheers.
 
jerryg2112 said:
Just wondering why you are going to replace your shocks. Is it because of the mileage or is it a ride issue?

I replaced my shocks recently on my 99 Continental which has the semi active suspension. I had 150,000 miles on them and was told by an alignment shop that they needed to be replaced because, although they were not leaking, the rubber bushings were worn out. I also asked them about the rear ball joints because I thought that they might be the cause of the clunking that I was hearing. They said that they were good. I tried filling the bushing space up with silicone which actually worked quite well. The noise remained though. So after more shock research from sites like these: http://youtu.be/BiW0ISi8N-w ,I determined that I needed them. I replaced them at a cost of $300 and the ride was the SAME. Then after more research I learned how to check out ball joints more thoroughly and found that they had a lot of slop in them. I replaced the rear ball joints and the noise improved noticeably. Though better, the clunking noise still persists. The stabilizer links and bushings are good since I replaced them before moving on to the shocks and ball joints. I am at a loss to the cause of the noise and am still living with it. I cannot find any worn parts or bushings.
Click to expand...

I saved the old shocks. If anyone wants them just PM me. They are probably the originals but they don't leak and if yours are shot and you don't have the cash right now for new ones then they would get you by for a while. Free just pay the actual shipping. Needs new rubber bushings or make your own.
Jerry
 
2000 lincoln continental rear shocks needed {aa-477 passive suspension}please help!!

jerryg2112 said:
I saved the old shocks. If anyone wants them just PM me. They are probably the originals but they don't leak and if yours are shot and you don't have the cash right now for new ones then they would get you by for a while. Free just pay the actual shipping. Needs new rubber bushings or make your own.
Jerry
Click to expand...


:shifty: HELLO, I STUMBLED UPON LVC SITE WHICH I FIND VERY INFORMATIVE. I AM PROUD OWNER OF 2000 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL WITH LOW MILEAGE --{93,700 MILES}:rolleyes::rolleyes: WELL, A REAR CLUNKING NOISE NECESSITATED RESEARCH.
I FOUND THAT BOTH STABILIZER SWAY BAR BRACKET & BUSHING CRACKED OFF & NEEDED REPLACEMENT. NO PROBLEM LOCATING BOTH TO PURCHASE. I ALSO DISCOVERED BOTH SHOCKS BADLY RUSTED & DECIDED TO REPLACE.

WHAT A NIGHTMARE TO EVEN DETERMINE WHICH TYPE. I HAVE A CHOICE ON FORDPARTS.COM OF EITHER {AA-478 ~AN ACTIVE ELECTRONIC TYPE} OR {AA-477 ~ A PASSIVE TYPE {YF3Z18125BA} WHICH I BELIEVE IS MINE. WHILE UNDER MY CAR, I DON'T SEE ANY WIRING ATTACHED TO BASE OF EACH SHOCK!! BUT I DO SEE 2 CYLINDER SHAPED AIR SUSPENSION CANISTERS.;);)

MOTORCRAFTS ARE QUITE PRICEY @152 EACH. I FOUND MONROE #40015--BUT FEAR ITS QUALITY & ALSO PRICEY. I LIKE BILSTEINS GERMAN QUALITY--BUT CAN'T LOCATE CORRECT SHOCK STYLE.

I TRULY WOULD APPRECIATE INPUT ON REAR SHOCKS STYLE NEEDED? ALSO, I AM GRATEFUL TO jerryg2112 for FREE OFFER OF REAR SHOCKS.
 
It seems that you don't need the pricey "electronic" shocks but just a pair of lower priced ones, from what I have seem even ones off a newer Taurus or Sable would work even. You just need "basic" shocks but You have air ride struts it seems. Which you can find on eBay for around 100.00 or less for a pair if needed. Good Luck.
 
you can replace them with passive shocks (non-electronic) which is cheaper by just putting load resistors (6 ohms) at the terminals. that's what I did with the fronts.
12345571_1020298141376312_2908175293560129761_n.jpg
 
My 1998 Lincoln is a driver (as MooJohn describes as a beater). New Jersey, Conn, NYC and Philadelphia road salt and pot holes will kill this 1998 Continental before it's time, but I just like this car! I'm not giving it up on it yet! Only 134 k miles, yet a fair amount of repairs: rocker rust fix last year, rebuilt trans 3 yrs ago, a motor swap 6 years ago because of 2 bad cylinders, the 2 rear air bags and the compressor too.
I'm going to figure out the parts to buy (shocks & resistor) and swap out the front shocks for new equipment (without a warning lights). This thread started 2 years ago is the road map to get me there. 3M Window Weld, ...who would have thunk it? Maybe the rear shocks either restored or replaced as well. Clever guys, Thanks to all that contributed. KD
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 166 (members: 0, guests: 166)
Back
Top