98 trans price & swap into a 94

NoLimit95

NoLimit95

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Mar 14, 2008
Messages
8,459
Reaction score
156
Location
Huntsville, Alabama, United States
I have the chance to get a 98 Mark trans with 68K on it for $200 or $250 removed and delivered. Is this a good deal or not? Nothing is really wrong with mine except the occasional (very lite) shudder on slight inclines at low speeds around 25 to 40 mph. The only reason I'm debating it is because it seems like a good price with that low of mileage and also, everyone seems to think it's the best swap for it because of all the updated parts internally.

If taken to a shop, not Lincoln, what's a round about figure for it to be changed out not including fluid? I have a garage full of all the tools needed but not really into changing out transmissions. Is this a hard task besides the connector pin needing to be re-pinned? Are two people needed? I have the room, all heated, all the tools but again, mine is running fine because it's very rare that I'm on an incline at 30 mph feeling the lite shudder. Does the 98 have a stronger 2nd gear? Is the J-Mod even needed? Since I have changed out the 1-2 accumulator springs and piston, my 2nd gear is a little too much on the smooth side. I also think I have been hearing my torque converter making a weird noise when in idle. It stops when it hits drive or reverse. BTW, mine has 178,600 miles on it. I know this is a lot of questions but before I get it, I just want to be sure about all of it before I have it brought to me.

I promise, I'll never mention the word (solenoid) again inside a transmission. I'm still confused on that one (SS1) & (SS2) and then TCC Solenoid but this is all in another thread. What does SS1 and SS2 stand for?
 
So those also need a J-Mod for a better 2nd gear? I really don't need a hard shifting 2nd but just want a good trans if it's fairly easy to change out. The price did sound good and it's only 8 miles from me.
 
nolimit94VIII said:
So those also need a J-Mod for a better 2nd gear? I really don't need a hard shifting 2nd but just want a good trans if it's fairly easy to change out. The price did sound good and it's only 8 miles from me.
Click to expand...


its a good price and a good trans, if you dont want/need the rapid fire shifts the jmod is not needed,but recommended.

dont know the swap cost 500-800 maybe??
 
I had my 93 done last Oct. $475 for a 93 trans with less than 1000 miles on the rebuild and a J-Mod, approx. $800 to have it swapped out. $50 for a trans cooler and it was installed at the same time. The J-mod is hardly noticeable at low rpm's but it will set you in the backseat when you want it to.
Thanks to Dr. Wheels on Cape Cod for the swap and good service (shameless plug)!
 
nolimit94VIII said:
I promise, I'll never mention the word (solenoid) again inside a transmission. I'm still confused on that one (SS1) & (SS2) and then TCC Solenoid but this is all in another thread. What does SS1 and SS2 stand for?
Click to expand...

SS stands for shift solenoid. TCC is torque converter clutch solenoid.

I'd jump all over the 98 trans. As for install $$$, can't say, I do all my own mechanical work.
 
I also paid $200 for my 98 tranny with 80K on it. I would say get it and you could always hold it until you are ready to do the job.
 
Its easy to do, don't bother repinning the harness... That is a serious pain in the buttcheeks. It's probably all covered in grime if it was like mine, and it is not the most fun thing to do.

If the trans is still in the 98, make sure you get a piece of the harness with it, tell em to cut it about 2 - 3 feet before the main connector that plugs in the trans.... Then you just match up the colors and just use one hot wire, the 98 takes 3. That way you can just splice the wires together, VERY EASY. Thats what I did on my 02 Mustang Trans.

TCC swap is easy, just find the websites with pictures (TCCOA.COM Tech articles)

Other than that, replacing the trans isn't that difficult, its just rather time consuming and a pita if you don't have the right tools. Long extensions, Grinder, impact. etc

I would be more prepared for breaking bolts or stripping stuff, it is an older car. F.I. when we did mine the cat on the driver-side bolts broke, the nuts that hold the trans to the engine, one of em stripped.

There are small tips and tricks that need to be taken into consideration to make the job go smoother. Grind off the factory support off the trans so it doens't getting snagged while your installing/removing.

If I was going to do it over again, I would recommend just dropping the subframe, Its very easy and then you have all the room in the world to take off the bolts and then slap it back in.
 
250 out of the car is a phenominal price. I paid $350 for the stang trans, with 40k on it. I had to get a speedcal to work with my gears. So that's really 450 to make it work with the lincoln.

I've read that the Trans before 95 - 97 i can't remember are not worth using because of faults with the case? Like I believe Blue Oval Chips won't give you a Core fee if you have an early trans... It's a plus to have the 98, no more problems with the one way clutch.

They say to put in some kinda spiral lock idk if you rev high that needs to be taking into consideration with the 98+ roller, I didn't do it and I frequent 6500. No problems yet... But I was advised... so ill pass that tidbit along.

Took me and a buddy a solid weekend to install it with out dropping the k member on our backs
 
Thanks for all the replies. The man finally got back with me yesterday and when he gets off work today, he will be going home to load the trans into his PT Cruiser and bringing it to my house. He also is giving me all the electrical stuff for it, the shifter and some other things for the $250 price. I made sure it was from a 98 first before getting it and it does have 68,000 on it. Not sure when I'll make the swap because mine isn't gone or anything YET but I did have to jump on it for the price he offered. I'll post a pic or two of it later tonight after he brings it over.
 
Just got the trans and he also brought the lines (not bent or crimped) and torque converter along with some other stuff he's bringing to me at work later this week. He just lives 5 minutes from where I work and 8 to 10 minutes from my house. It needs to be cleaned but I suppose for $250 delivered, it was worth it.

He said he would bring me the cross member and a computer which I don't know why I would need any of this stuff but if he's giving, I'll take it. All I care about doing is getting the trans installed in my car but before doing that, who would you all send the valve body to to be drilled? I want this thing to shift strong and last until the car falls apart.

Transmission%20001.jpg
Transmission%20002.jpg
Transmission%20003.jpg
Transmission%20004.jpg
 
With the trans out the Jmod is uber simple, especially if you have an engine stand to put the trans on.... but if you want to have someone else do it I'd recomend:

Darren

He is a really good guy and his valve body has worked well for 25k in my Vic with no issues and I beat on it pretty good.
 
I have an engine stand in the garage. I just don't want to mess up and drill in the wrong place. Is there and article that explains in pretty good detail exactly where to drill? I have everything needed to do it and would rather take it out and knock it out right here if it's that simple.

Someone also mentioned splicing some wires on one of the connectors. I'm most likely going to be changing them out next Monday because I have Mon & Tue off. If the J-Mod really isn't needed, then I'm not going to mess with it.
 
I would 100% recommend the JMOD.... I wouldn't run without it. If it weren't for the fact that I really want to get solid base line track numbers for my Mark I would have already done it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

Total: 264 (members: 1, guests: 263)
Back
Top