AC Blowing Hot Air & Service Parking Brake Warning

Lava

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Howdy,

2006 LS V8. Just wanted to confirm that the fix for these two issues popping up within the same day or so was indeed a bad DCCV (aka Heater Control Valve) for me.

~$140 from local parts store that had it in stock. Easy to replace on 2nd gen with only three hoses and a wire connector going to it. Just one bolt holding it on. It's on back of passenger side of radiator. Removed plastic perty stuff from engine and radiator, passenger side radiator mounting bracket, top radiator hose, and could get to it from there. Just had to remember which hose goes went where, and to refill coolant and bleed air out when done.
 
Service parking brake and bad DCCV aren't related. The parking brake issue may be as simple as resetting the system (something about setting the parking brake while pushing the brake pedal) or you may need a new ABS module.
 
Service parking brake and bad DCCV aren't related. The parking brake issue may be as simple as resetting the system (something about setting the parking brake while pushing the brake pedal) or you may need a new ABS module.

Actually, from time to time they are. I've heard of other cases where the short in the DCCV caused enough electrical noise to cause issues with the parking brake, that were resolved once the DCCV was replaced. The DCCV needs to be replaced, so replace it and wait and see if there are any more E brake warnings. If not, your done...
(I didn't think they were related either until the first time I heard of it.)
 
Actually, from time to time they are. I've heard of other cases where the short in the DCCV caused enough electrical noise to cause issues with the parking brake, that were resolved once the DCCV was replaced. The DCCV needs to be replaced, so replace it and wait and see if there are any more E brake warnings. If not, your done...
(I didn't think they were related either until the first time I heard of it.)

I learn something from you almost daily!! Thanks for the knowledge!
 
yes that happened to me once I replaced the dccv then issue went away. rockauto has it for 90 bucks I think.
 
Looks like I am also getting a new DCCV installed on Thursday. There is no A/C, just hot air coming out of the vents (passenger side slightly cooler that driver’s side).

DATC diagnostics showed codes 1265 (ignore) and 2798 – Driver coolant control valve circuit short to ground.

In my case, the Nav screen on the OEM radio (THX) is also showing horizontal noise lines. The technician stated that they may also need to replace the radio, but I told him when only the driver’s side temperature is raised to the max (90F), the lines are no longer there. When the driver’s side temperature is left at 70F and the passenger side raised to 90F, the lines are still there. I suggested they fix the A/C first and then see if a new radio is needed (this one is less than 1 year old).
 
I'm getting the same code but my dccv was changed last year. any of the video's I've watched show that if you are having trouble with the valve, it will interfere with your nav screen. I am in the process of doing more diagnostics on my main control to see if there is a problem there. I don't have the nav but I have similar issue.
 
When I performed the diagnostics I only saw codes 1265 (ignore) and 2798. But the tech stated on the invoice that he also had code 2799 - passenger side water valve circuit open. Anyhow, replaced the DCCV and now I have A/C and no more noise lines on the Nav display screen.
 
...and now for the rest of the story. The generic one I got from the local parts store worked for several days, but failed with drivers side blowing hot air the day after I posted. Double checked connector, re-bled coolant system. No luck. Ordered the Motorcraft YG378 from Amazon ($50 cheaper BTW), and it has been working fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
 
...and now for the rest of the story. The generic one I got from the local parts store worked for several days, but failed with drivers side blowing hot air the day after I posted. Double checked connector, re-bled coolant system. No luck. Ordered the Motorcraft YG378 from Amazon ($50 cheaper BTW), and it has been working fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.

lava i went through this twice. and finally found this http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/Lincoln-LS/CoolingSystemDraining/
when bleeding you need a FULL stream coming out of the heater bleed valve. if it is just trickling out it will fail again
you must get all air out of the system
 

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