burnindank
LVC Member
No heat or cool don't matter what temp I put it only blows the temp air from outside. If it's 85 I get 85 degree air if it's 65 I get 65 any insight before I go recharge and evac system?
Ac problem 1st gen
- Thread starter burnindank
- Start date
^)burnindank
LVC Member
fuses and relays are good. Have ran the internal diagnostic and get no DTC.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
doubtful that would make any difference...
if you dont have heat when you set the temp to heat, then whether or not your AC system has refrigerant, you have another problem.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Usually, a no-heat problem is due to air in the heater circuit, which is usually because of degraded plastic cooling system parts.
Some more information is needed for good help here.
Is this the V8 or the V6?
Did the heat and AC work before and then it stopped? Did both stop at the same time? Or, did you just get this car and neither worked when you got it?
Some more information is needed for good help here.
Is this the V8 or the V6?
Did the heat and AC work before and then it stopped? Did both stop at the same time? Or, did you just get this car and neither worked when you got it?
burnindank
LVC Member
It's the v8 and I do know I need to replace upper radiator hose due to small leak.. The Ac did blow cold when o baught it but went out shortly after. Attempted to recharge system using Ac pro and only got a pressure of 10 psi on low side, and the system wouldn't take refrigerant. Even if the car is running hot due to the coolant leak, no hot air comes into cabin just the temperature air from outside. Hope this helps
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
1. AC - You'll have to find and properly fix the leak, add the correct amount of compressor oil, replace the receiver/dryer, and pull a full vacuum on the system before adding refrigerant then. Also, you need to monitor the high-side pressure at the same time.
2. If you have cooling system leaks, they let air in even more than they let coolant out. This air prevents circulation in the heater loop, and this is likely why you have no heat. It doesn't matter how hot the engine gets. There's no way to get that heat to the heater cores. Once you replace all the leaking plastic (all of it will be leaking), then you must fill and bleed the cooling system exactly by the book: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/drain-lincoln-ls-cooling-system/ (It likely won't bleed correctly until all the leaks are fixed.)
burnindank
LVC Member
What is the receiver/dryer?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It's the canister right below the high-side pressure port, at the passenger side of the radiator. It removes moisture from the AC system in operation. You are at 10 PSI, so the system is basically open and contaminated. (It should be replace anytime the system is opened to do anything.) It is not expensive.
burnindank
LVC Member
Okay I know what you're talking about. Now to find the leak.. Do you know of any common issues with leakage on the LS?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Still talking about the AC system right?
A leak from the "o-ring" for the control valve at the back of the AC compressor seems common. (Both of mine have done this, one of them twice.) If this is where your leak is, it is bad news because most of the compressor oil leaks out first and the compressor can self destruct and mess up the rest of the system. Other than that, check all the places that lines connect. It should be oily where the leak(s) is/are.
burnindank
LVC Member
Yeah still on the Ac.
The compressor is located on the pass side front of engine near the high side port correct? I know for a fact that it isn't kicking on. If it is the o ring leaking would replacing my compressor solve my issues or would it need to be a complete overhaul since you said that the compressor may self destruct and cause damage to the rest of the system? I'm hoping I didn't bite off too much to chew here.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It's on the driver's side. The alternator is on the passenger side. (Surely you know this if you tried to charge it, the low side port is right at the compressor.) It all depends on if it was run to destruction or not. If you can turn the inner part of the AC clutch by hand, you are probably okay. If it is just that o-ring, it is cheap and easy to replace. However, you must figure out how much oil to add. I would drain the compressor and then add the full oil charge back to the compressor (new oil and new receiver/dryer). If you replace the compressor, get the Motorcraft one, not one of the $200 Chinese ones (last about one month).
burnindank
LVC Member
You're right that's my bad, lol. I'm about to get under her and see, I'll post back soon.