Adding new audio system, amp, sub .. Need help

xarruda89x

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Ok guys, I'm getting an amp and a 12in. sub, thing is, i dont want to remove my factory radio so i bought a converter.

Now, question is, i do believe i have to remove the factory radio to do some wiring, i was looking at it today ( in the dash ) and i dont see how it could come out, what are the steps here lol ..

On the continental i use to have, it was a piece of cake, but everything on the LS seems to be a mission lol

thanks
 
If you have the stock rear deck subs, you just tap off of there with the line out converter. Find a remote lead for the amp in the fuse box by the battery and everything's done in the trunk.
 
i wish, i have a 2000 LS, and what ever speakers they threw in there ..

Which is stock of course, but your saying, i dont even have to touch the radio itself ( removing it and wiring it from there )
 
I didn't have to, but I have the rear deck stock subs. You could always tap off one of the rear door speakers, too.
 
Audio wiring

For all of you that have tapped into the rear subs out to the LOC, did you leave the factory subs plugged in or unplugged?
 
I had it like that this weekend, & I got in the car this morning, & started the car & this awful noise came from the subs, keep in mind that they were doing fine saturday & sunday, the sound is more like a screech, like when you cross the wires improperly. I replaced the LOC, & the screeching is gone, but when I hook up the subs, the volume is extremely low & the only way you can tell if they are working is by touching them, & the gain does not help with this
 
Well, the gain is not for the volume. Its to match your head unit rca's I believe. What type of LOC are you using?
 
I was using the cheap Scosche FAI3...something this weekend when it was working, so I just replaced it with the same thing, the amp is RFp3001 & just a couple of 12's, sounded great until now. This is my first attempt in doing this & haven't had to use a converter before, but it's just strange how it did good both days & now this.
 
The gain is actually the power the amp puts out. Which would be volume if you wanna look at it that way. So if I am reading these post right, you guys are saying that you are using the factory amp to push 12's? Or did I miss something? That amp looks like its about 100 watts maybe 150.
 
I thought thats what you guys meant, The language was confusing me though. You lose a lot of signal that way. Weak responses. I would personally never wire it up like that, Aftermarket head unit and good wires and wiring are always the way to go.
 
i hooked my sub up by removing the head unit. start by removing the ac ducts and then start unscrewing. then you remove the bottom part where it starts hitting the dash. theres a few screws behind there, and remove the ashtray. (more screws) then it comes right out. i bought the scoshe converter at circuit city. its not that bad. you splice four wires and run remote wire and RCAs to the trunk the rest is done in the trunk. power and ground.
 
no, there is no monster cable verse genric arguement. But some people use cables that are to small for the power, sometimes they run their ground to long. Gold plated are a little better than your regular connections. But a nice insulated wire is always good the heavier the better. Generics arent bad as long as they are the right size.
 
run the ground to the battery ground in the trunk. its not long at all.
 
i noticed alot of members ran the remote wire to diode 1 for the fuel pump, do any of you still have it wired this way, & if so, has there been any problems with wiring it this way?
 
I still have mine that way. Only thing I notice is at the drag strip that if I have the radio on, I feel a jerkiness in the trans in 4th. Not positive that it's from that or the beginnings of the bad coil/valve cover gasket issue I eventually had. But other than that, it still works fine.
 

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