dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
how do you evacuate (flush) the system to avoid destroying the new/replacement compressor?
Air conditioning compressor
- Thread starter pepperman
- Start date
From what I've been told, you just need to replace the accumulator, check the orifice tube for evidence of shavings, replace that if necesarry. Then the lines between the compressor and the accumulator need to be removed and there is a chemical flush solution. Put some in the lines and use a compressor to blow it out.
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
keep us updated on how it goes, I'm considering the job...but have been told that unless you have an uber expensive evac system, you cannot get the junk out and will likely destroy the new parts
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I actually bought a $35 can of freon to charge my system, then remembered that I've seen evidence my comp is leaking oil, so why throw away the cash and waste time?; the dude at Adv Auto said often times the leak is from the Schrader valve on the low side. That's a dealer only part, about $15
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Linc Online HowTo comp r/r
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60070
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I actually bought a $35 can of freon to charge my system, then remembered that I've seen evidence my comp is leaking oil, so why throw away the cash and waste time?; the dude at Adv Auto said often times the leak is from the Schrader valve on the low side. That's a dealer only part, about $15
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Linc Online HowTo comp r/r
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60070
dnsherrill
Dedicated LVC Member
summer Georgia heat is part of the reason I have a white (ivory) mark- cooler, and a dark (charcoal) mark- hotter...if you get another one, get a light color!
haha! So true.
I've been watching a China Blue 93. It's been on CL for a while. If I hadn't dropped $500 for pet deposit last month, I probably would have checked it our and offered $800 for it. Says small transmission leak and radiator cracked. Radiator is $100. Tranny leak could likely just be the dip tube seal. I'd obviously check it though. Could be a steal, and a one year colored Mark
Do you happen to have a picture of the approximate location of the hole that needs to be drilled? This is what I'm going to do, just want to make sure I don't have to drill more then one lol.
LSC HUNTER
Dedicated LVC Member
Guys, I can see doing the bulk of the work like changing the parts yourself to save money but you will never get the system working "properly" and for any length of time if it is not evacuated correctly. Talk to a local shop and see how much they will charge for an evacuation and recharge. Moisture in your system will kill it and all your parts will be junk again.
Think about it, moisture is water and water going through your compressor will not compress and moisture in an a/c system means acid. Acid = corrosion. Change the orfice tube it is cheap insurance.
Think about it, moisture is water and water going through your compressor will not compress and moisture in an a/c system means acid. Acid = corrosion. Change the orfice tube it is cheap insurance.
Which is why you rent the machine for a few bucks when you do the job.
LSC HUNTER
Dedicated LVC Member
Well here in Canada, our laws do not allow for the machines to be rented out or maybe more to the point the people that have them do not rent them. We can buy stuff at our local auto parts places and such to recharge a system but you still need to take it in to get it evacuated.
I am lucky, I work in the HVAC business and my brother is a tech with all the equipment so I just make a phone call and it all gets done. Just trying to make the point to either evacuate the system with the equipment or the system will either not work right from the start or cost you a lot of money down the road.
I purchased an orifice tube already, it's going in the car tomorrow. After I clean out the lines and replace the compressor, I'm driving it up to my mechanic and he already said he'd pull a vacuum for me free of charge.
Oh, does anyone know what type of oil to use? I know you're suppose to use Ford but I can't find it (not even on eBay) and at this point, I'm doing it tomorrow so it's not an option to wait to order some. Is it PAG 46?
Oh, does anyone know what type of oil to use? I know you're suppose to use Ford but I can't find it (not even on eBay) and at this point, I'm doing it tomorrow so it's not an option to wait to order some. Is it PAG 46?
Moes8
Dedicated LVC Member
sorry, i did not see this request until now
the hole that is almost dead center of photo, hope this makes a good reference point for you
Thanks man, I appreciate the help. I already changed it out, Saturday. I just did it the hard way and turned it tiny bit at a time by hand once I broke it lose. Wasn't fun, but it got the job done.
Now, just trying to figure out if I can replace just the shredder valve or the port for the high pressure port. Mine leaks.
Now, just trying to figure out if I can replace just the shredder valve or the port for the high pressure port. Mine leaks.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
I take it you've already watched some vids on yt on how to go about fixing leaky high/low side ports?
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
easiest fix for a leaking schrader valve?
put the cap back on!
put the cap back on!
Moes8
Dedicated LVC Member
+1, i believe Sapper or laser or someone pointed out in the past, the cap is the primary seal for the valves
Yeah, the issue is it's not like a little bit...it's screaming out of there. I don't think the cap will contain that, lol.
I haven't looked on YouTube yet but I will know. I know how to do like tire stems but this doesn't look the same. I know it's the same function but it looks completely different then for instance the repair kit they sell at AutoZone.
I haven't looked on YouTube yet but I will know. I know how to do like tire stems but this doesn't look the same. I know it's the same function but it looks completely different then for instance the repair kit they sell at AutoZone.