Air Conditioning Recharge??

cool, but they had the lift and it was easier for them. it's #4 on that diagram on top of this page. i remember i didn't want to take the car to get the recharge just for the simple fact that i knew they wouldn't be able to locate it immediately and i didn't want to take a risk w/ them not knowing. what i didn't know is that you can't (even if you tried) fit the low feed or high feed hoses into the wrong port. so, they found it, vacuumed it, refilled it, and now i'm happy. 60 degrees has never felt better.
 
suction pressure ??

Does anyone have a clue as to what the suction pressure should be on a 90 degree day --I have 30 psi suction pressure on my ford ranger at idle and 90 degree ambiant- we should be able to slowly charge the system to ???? psi suction pressure and not over charge the system --- and that should be able to be done just by adding R134 instead of dropping all the freon out of the system?
FYI the suction or recharge lines will be the cool or cold lines and or fittings
while the hot lines or fittings will be the high pressure fittings - never connect a can of R134 to the hot or hi pressure lines as it can blow up the can in your hand
 
Umm, since we have a split system, filling through the low side will charge both drivers and passenger sides? The reason I'm asking is that my passenger side gets hot while the drivers remains cold after turning the car off to run into the gas station . But i get the passanger side to blow cold again but jumping on the highway and flooring it. I just went to Autozone to purchase a 134 refill kit, but the connection did not fit the port on top (i'm guessing the high side) so, here I am looking for direction from you guys, my LS pals... :)
 
pbslmo said:
Umm, since we have a split system, filling through the low side will charge both drivers and passenger sides? The reason I'm asking is that my passenger side gets hot while the drivers remains cold after turning the car off to run into the gas station . But i get the passanger side to blow cold again but jumping on the highway and flooring it. I just went to Autozone to purchase a 134 refill kit, but the connection did not fit the port on top (i'm guessing the high side) so, here I am looking for direction from you guys, my LS pals... :)
Click to expand...

There is only one port to fill the r134a for the whole system and that is right on the compressor. It is right behind a plastic shield on the inside of the drivers side tire. The DCCV (dual coolant control valve) is likely your problem with the hot air coming from one side and not the other. This happened me me last year right after I bought my LS and after replacing the DCCV I have not had it happen again.
 
How much to replace the DCCV and could this be something that can be fixed by blowing compressed air to clean out the dust?
 
pbslmo said:
Umm, since we have a split system, filling through the low side will charge both drivers and passenger sides? ...
Click to expand...

The AC system is not split. There is only a single evaporator. The heating system is split, there is a dual heater core. The system works by cooling all the air the maximum amount that it can. Then it heats the driver's side and the passenger side separately to get the desired temperatures. As others have said, your problem is a bad DCCV, the assembly of valves that control the heat for both sides.
 
pbslmo said:
How much to replace the DCCV and could this be something that can be fixed by blowing compressed air to clean out the dust?
Click to expand...

No. The only cure is to replace the DCCV. Water leaks into the coils and shorts them out. Cost is about $200 to $300, depending on if you do it yourself or get someone else to do it.
 
:confused:
joegr said:
No. The only cure is to replace the DCCV. Water leaks into the coils and shorts them out. Cost is about $200 to $300, depending on if you do it yourself or get someone else to do it.
Click to expand...

But if water leaks on them and shorts them out, why would it blow cold until I shut it down and then blow hot. I can get it to blow cold again by flooring the accelerator to rev the engine to about 5000 rpms.
 
Im going to make a full write up for this for a tech article, its kind of hard to find the valve the first time.
 
Ok so I found the valve and followed the instructions on the can to recharge word for word. I'm still getting nothing but hot air blowing through my vents. Any idea as to what the issue may be? I will say that the needle did some jumping while going through the fill/recharge process. It's now holding steady pressure within the range indicated on the valve reading.
 
Harlem1Der said:
Ok so I found the valve and followed the instructions on the can to recharge word for word. I'm still getting nothing but hot air blowing through my vents. Any idea as to what the issue may be? I will say that the needle did some jumping while going through the fill/recharge process. It's now holding steady pressure within the range indicated on the valve reading.
Click to expand...

Have you verified that it's not a DCCV problem?
Have you verified that the compressor clutch is engaging?
Have you checked the high side pressure?
Are you sure that the compressor oil hasn't leaked out?
How could the gauge on the can know what pressure it should be without looking it up in the table for the LS system according to ambient temperature where you are?
 
The DCCV is working, I can feel it cycling. I believe the compressor clutch is engaging. I say that because I can see everything moving. Forgive my ignorance but I don't know how to do any further checks. I do not have any gauges to check both the high and low pressure sides. I haven't seen any leaks so I am assuming the oil is still in there. According to the can, I was to set the gauge according to what the ambient temp was, which is 71 degrees. Where is this Table for the LS system located. I'm getting very frustrated with this car lol, it's almost paid off and now everything seems to be going wrong with it.
 
First things first, "feeling the DCCV cycling" however you might do that, doesn't prove that it works.

Set the temp to minimum. Start with the engine cold. Do you get good cooled (chilled) air for the first minute or two? (If yes, you probably have a DCCV problem.)
Now when the engine is fully (or at least mostly) warmed up, set the temp to maximum. Do you get much hotter air out now? Now set back to minimum. Does the air out get cooler? It should be no more than a few degrees over outside temperature. If it is more (still heated) you have a DCCV problem.
Make sure for all of these tests that you check both the left and right dash vents. It would be best if you used a thermometer.

Really, you should never add refrigerant without monitoring the high side pressure at the same time. It could be that you have some refrigerant system problem other than low refrigerant level. If so, adding more refrigerant will just makes things worse and may cause damage. Too much refrigerant is even worse than too little.
 
ok I will do the checks once the engine cools down. I will report back with what I find out, thanks for the help again.
 
Harlem1Der said:
Hey I ran the self test and pulled codes 27 98 and 12 65. I'm assuming this is a faulty DCCV.
Click to expand...

1265 is a false code for an 04.
2798 is the driver's side of the DCCV.

What did you mean by you can feel the DCCV cycling? Are you holding the hose or something?
 
12 65 = "Cold Air Bypass Door Actuator Circuit Failure"
Invalid code. Vehicle not equipped with cold air bypass door actuator. Ignore this code and continue diagnostics.

EDIT: Oops, beat me to it.


Also be sure the AJB #1 10Amp fuse under hood is checked, it's often blown and will read A/C Clutch Relay on it, it blows as the DCCV gets jammed.

more: http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...0-Dccv&p=2037280181&viewfull=1#post2037280181

Pinpoint tests: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6xc0003.htm~gen~ref.htm#PS2-J



BigRigLS said:
@xford,

READ:


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

SECTION 412-00: Climate Control System — General Information and Diagnostics

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING
  • Inspection and Verification

    Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-Demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes — DTCs)

  • Symptom Chart

    No communication with the dual automatic temperature control (DATC) module.
    The DATC system is inoperative, intermittent or incorrect operation.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

SECTION 412-01: Climate Control

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Abstract:
Click to expand...



In short, your DCCV is stuck open and rendering your AC useless as hot coolant it allowed to flow through the interior heater core.
If you really wanted to test if the AC is working you could take a couple of needle nose locking pliers with rags around them and pinch off both inlet tubes into the heater core at the firewall.

This would simulate that the DCCV would be doing it's job and shutting the solenoids, closing off the valves, not allowing coolant to flow through.


disclaimer: as always, I stand to be corrected as usual.

GLWR
 
I checked the #1 fuse and it's not blown. And as far as checking the DCCV, I touched it and could feel the cycling of the coolant.
 
Sorry for the necro thread revival.
I want to provide better information on how to find the low side charge port, on at least the 03-06 models. I have no idea if this is different on 00-02 models.

I just finished recharging my A/C on my 2006 LS Ultimate (owned since new). I used RedTek products: one can of LeakSeal, one OilCharge, two 6 oz cans of refrigerant. (Note the LeakSeal and OilCharge each have 2 oz of refrigerant in them). I now get about 8 degrees Celcius from the vent at full fan on a hot day. Amazing.

There is NO NEED to remove the fender skirt.

1. Crank the wheels fully left.
2. optionally lift and secure the car (driver side). This makes it much easier to get in there, but if you don't have safe lifting equipment you can still just manage.
3. Refer to first photo below. Remove (pull out) the two circled plastic retainer clips. pull the large cover down below the suspension arm. Swing the small rubber cover (it will swivel on the remaining clip that you didn't remove).
4. Locate the charge port. It is just behind the exposed area, at about the level of the opening, and between the two removed clips. Refer to photo 2.
5. Remove the dust cap. Inspect for signs of oil which would indicate leaking through the port.

To use the RedTek products you could try to follow their horrible directions, or this:
1. fully unscrew the winged screw (the valve) on the can end of the hose. This retracts the needle that will pierce the can.
2. screw the can onto the hose and tighten well by hand.
3. screw the winged screw back down to pierce the can. DO NOT UNSCREW IT YET, you will release the product if you do.
4. Attach the coupler to the charge port. It works like all such quick connects: Pull back the collar while pressing it into place, then ensure the collar goes back to the normal position to lock it into place. wiggle and tug it a bit to make sure it is on there well. If you have even a little tiny bit of left refrigerant in the sytem, and the compressor is not running (it isn't) then you should see a pressure of ~60-90 PSI. If you have pressure, skip to step 6. 5. No/Low pressure? The compressor may not kick in, which is necessary to finish the process, so do step 5.
5. Invert the can (so it dispenses liquid, not gas) and open the valve (i.e. fully unscrew the winged screw - don't loosen the can from the hose!). After a few minutes, the system will have received a minimal charge which will allow the compressor to run, so close the valve.
6. Start the car, crank the A/C, and monitor the pressure on the low side. It will go down (from 60-90 down to below 40 PSI) if the compressor kicks in.
7. If all is well, invert the can and open the valve on the filler hose again to dispense the rest of the product. Keep can inverted all the while. The pressure will go up while this is happening.
8. When the pressure drops again (but likely not down into the green), you have dispensed all the product. This takes 5-10 minutes.
9. Close the valve. Shut off car. Remove quick coupler from A/C filler port.
10. Open the valve to vent the small amount of pressure from the can. It should psssss for a couple seconds at most. Remove and recycle the can.
11. repeat if necessary for other products.
12. Enjoy

DSC_0469.jpg
Note: The following photo is UPSIDE DOWN. Sorry.
DSC_0475.jpg

DSC_0469.jpg


DSC_0475.jpg
 
Really, you should never ever put any sort of stop leak in. It's unlikely to help. It's not refrigerant, so it reduces the system cooling capacity, and it may clog the expansion valve or some of the small channels.
Also, you can only ever correctly charge the system by knowing both the high side and the low side pressures. Too much refrigerant is even worse than too little. It really needs to be just right.
 
That valve being where it is,I would not invert the can. That would be hard on the compressor with no buffering between like most cars have.
Just me,but I would not invert it. don-ohio :)^)
 
don-ohio said:
That valve being where it is,I would not invert the can. That would be hard on the compressor with no buffering between like most cars have.
Just me,but I would not invert it. don-ohio :)^)
Click to expand...

This is generally true. However, the LS has a scroll compressor instead of a piston one. Scrolls are relatively immune to slugging and should be okay. (I agree that it is a bad thing for piston type compressors.)
 
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