Amp light STAYS on

[MRK7MISTRESS]

Hi guys, below is a pic of my big baby which is a 1989 Bill Blass edition. It has a new battery. When bought the car ran like a champ (except for hunting/loping engine idles when driving over 65mph, that's another story further below) but FIRST-

FIRST ISSUE: My brother had replaced the alternator and voltage regulator when the car couldn't keep a charge and lo and behold the AMP light stays on now. Not bright but its noteably 'on'. Not flickers but if you rev the car it'll dim darker (not brighter). The car NEVER did this before these 'repairs'.

Unplug the regulator the AMP light goes off (of course) and when plugged in its back on- figured I'd add that since my brother insists I'd put that here.

I checked the alternator cable connector (the two wires that directly connects to the alternator) and they looked oily and dried out. He cleaned it, the connectors and covered the wire with electrical tape. Still the amp light is on but a little dimmer- which I might have just solved the issue right there but there is no good parts car around here. If any know where I can get a replacement of said wiring/connectors PLEASE PM ME ASAP.

He did the """OLD SCHOOL""" test of unplugging the battery while the car is running and it shuts off now. Before it didn't do this before the alternator went bad, when the car was bought. The car did have the infamous abs issues but was cleared with a simple brake flush

SECOND ISSUE: Hunting/bucking. Cold warm or hot, take the big baby over 55-65mph and it bucks and backfires. It does this even when you crank the engine and rev it, it'll IMMEDIATELY backfires. Tried to pull codes, nothing. NOTHING! Weird

I've researched this here and all over the internet and done everything that was said, still same results. Quick run down of what I've had replaced with all brand new parts: new coolant sensor, full tune up, new distributor and ignition modulator, IAC sensor, switched 1 and 2 sparkplug wires (changed back again because it gotten worst), new MAP sensor (btw if unplugged it doesn't backfire /at all/ but sounds like a big truck and runs rich), checked all hoses no leaks, fuel lines cleaned, fuel pump replaced...that's all I can think of so far.

I will say one thing, after these little hurdles are conquered this car will run like a sewing machine. Thanks to any and all replies

PS Please excuse the car's stance, as the guys tell me at work it looks like it's either sitting down like a giant dog or about to take flight It's already been converted over, its just that the person who had the car before me did a weird hack job in the conversion. Its very bouncy

 

[Elessee]

nobody has answered yet so i guess i'll share my thoughts..

If "The car NEVER did this before these 'repairs'", then the repairs are suspect.
It could be anything from a faulty semi-new rebuilt alternator or regulator to that connector you mentioned... or to something else.. Hows the battery? Is it new-new? I just replaced one that was about 8 months old. The tire shop told me it failed their test (they do the routine checks for me) and i didn't believe it. It really went downhill fast. Wouldn't hold a charge above about 12.4 volts.

Maybe a slipping fan belt? I'm told they can slip even though they have proper tension.
And if as RPM increases the AMPs light dims, then the alternator or voltage regulator is certainly too sensitive to RPM. Anything above idle should provide enough juice to shut off the AMPs lamp.

Then again, who knows.. diagnosing the charging system is really hard to do without the proper tool.. expensive, specialized tools that a shop would use.

----
I've no idea about the backfires and all that.. first thing that came to mind was a stretched timing chain or something.. That would be somewhat of a pain to fix.
There are so many various electronic components in the ignition system that accurately diagnosing it again falls into the realm of the repair shop. Of course one could just start replacing various sensors and things and hope to get lucky, but the costs adds up fast and the odds are not in favor of success.

----
It's never too late or too early to have some professional check things out.
These old cars are a joy to own when they're running right and are worth whatever it costs to have a shop take a peek under the hood, imo.

that's my 2 cents.. it's not much.. but what do you expect for free?

 

[OldSchool1]

Yup.

The alternator is not charging OR it is charging but the charging circuit wire (the thick one) is open and not getting current back to the starter solenoid and subsequently the battery.

 

[MRK7MISTRESS]

nobody has answered yet so i guess i'll share my thoughts..

If "The car NEVER did this before these 'repairs'", then the repairs are suspect.
It could be anything from a faulty semi-new rebuilt alternator or regulator to that connector you mentioned... or to something else.. Hows the battery? Is it new-new? I just replaced one that was about 8 months old. The tire shop told me it failed their test (they do the routine checks for me) and i didn't believe it. It really went downhill fast. Wouldn't hold a charge above about 12.4 volts.

Maybe a slipping fan belt? I'm told they can slip even though they have proper tension.
And if as RPM increases the AMPs light dims, then the alternator or voltage regulator is certainly too sensitive to RPM. Anything above idle should provide enough juice to shut off the AMPs lamp.

Then again, who knows.. diagnosing the charging system is really hard to do without the proper tool.. expensive, specialized tools that a shop would use.

----
I've no idea about the backfires and all that.. first thing that came to mind was a stretched timing chain or something.. That would be somewhat of a pain to fix.
There are so many various electronic components in the ignition system that accurately diagnosing it again falls into the realm of the repair shop. Of course one could just start replacing various sensors and things and hope to get lucky, but the costs adds up fast and the odds are not in favor of success.

----
It's never too late or too early to have some professional check things out.
These old cars are a joy to own when they're running right and are worth whatever it costs to have a shop take a peek under the hood, imo.

that's my 2 cents.. it's not much.. but what do you expect for free?

Thanks!
The battery is less than a month old, everything is pretty new; I'm with you far as the "repairs" because like said the car never done this before. Everything is being retested tomorrow and all. Long story short, had the car charging system checked at Autozone and they say it's the alternator. So they want me to remove it so they can test it out.

Far as a shop, ALL the shops here told me *that* car is not worth investing in and to scrap it. So I am pretty much on my own far as that concern. Ford/Lincoln/Mercury had their paws on it one time and they given me nothing but wrong answers and seem not to know squat about that car.

 

[OldSchool1]

Shops that tell you not to invest in repairs of a Luxury Sport Coupe are telling you one or two things:
1) They have no idea how to fix it.
2) They are too lazy to fix it.
It's normally the first one.

Ford deslerships are GREAT at repairings Fords ... that are less than twelve years old. After a vehicle is out of warranty or out of recall range, they have no need to maintain inventory of parts or even manuals for that matter. The financial interest is just not there.

Many of us "have a Guy" that knows these cars and we refer other owners to, even across state lines. I have my 1989 and my 1991, 30 miles south of me in a shop and my 1990 100 miles North of me at a shop.

Give people on the forum an idea of where you're at and ask the question, "Does anyone know a good Mark VII mechanic near <insert town and state>?"

 

[Elessee]

yup.. not a lot of mechanics know these cars.. and just last summer (?) a Lincoln Dealership in Vegas wouldn't even touch mine for the reasons Old School mentioned. For the mechanically inclined among us, it's best to "know thy car" because nobody else is likely to. A set of Shop manuals is a huge advantage.

As to their "value", I hear the car was a head-turner in it's day.. a status symbol... top of the line Lincoln.
But if someone doesn't like a vehicle they won't be happy no matter what. Personally, I don't like the old Tbirds or Mustangs amongst many, many others, and you couldn't pay me to take one. "Value" doesn't turn my crank..
I'm in the market and cannot find a new make/model I like enough to spend the bucks on because what I really want is a new version of this car but with modern technology.


Glad to hear you may have narrowed it down to the alternator. If it wasn't a faulty unit, maybe a hot wire got crossed on installation and fried a diode or something.. and hopefully, in your travels, you'll come across a mechanic who mumbles something to the tune of "Wow.. nice car.. I enjoyed working on these back in the day."

 

[richardsMk8]

It happened to me, too.

I bought an 87 Lincoln Mark VII LSC, 3 years ago. The main problem was that the alternator light would be on, when the car is running. I was told from the previous owner that I would have to disconnect the battery everytime I did not need to start the car, or the battery will go bad. I did not understand why. So, I took the alternator out, to take to the auto part store to have them check to see if it is good or bad. They said it was good. So, I bought a voltage regulator. I put it in. I left the battery connected all night. The next day, I tried to start the car. The battery was dead. I took to the auto part store , and they said that the battery is no good, that it had a short. So, I got a new battery, the car started right up, but the alternator light is still on. I left the battery connected all night. The next day, I tried to start the car. The battery was dead. I just bought a brand new battery and now it is dead? I went back to the auto part store with the battery, and they said that the battery has a short. Then they said something is wrong with your car, making the battery short out. They gave me a new battery for free. I said to myself, I am taking the starter off, to have it checked. I took it off, went to the auto part store to have it checked, the next thing I knew, it blew a fuse in the building. So, I bought a new starter. That was telling me, that was the whole reason for the alternator light to be on, and the battery draining and shorting out. I took a risk to leave the battery connected overnight. The next day the car started right up.
My advice, take your starter out, and have it checked for free at the auto part store.
I hope it works. If not, then I do not know.









QUOTE=MRK7MISTRESS;471438]Hi guys, below is a pic of my big baby which is a 1989 Bill Blass edition. It has a new battery. When bought the car ran like a champ (except for hunting/loping engine idles when driving over 65mph, that's another story further below) but FIRST-

FIRST ISSUE: My brother had replaced the alternator and voltage regulator when the car couldn't keep a charge and lo and behold the AMP light stays on now. Not bright but its noteably 'on'. Not flickers but if you rev the car it'll dim darker (not brighter). The car NEVER did this before these 'repairs'.

Unplug the regulator the AMP light goes off (of course) and when plugged in its back on- figured I'd add that since my brother insists I'd put that here.

I checked the alternator cable connector (the two wires that directly connects to the alternator) and they looked oily and dried out. He cleaned it, the connectors and covered the wire with electrical tape. Still the amp light is on but a little dimmer- which I might have just solved the issue right there but there is no good parts car around here. If any know where I can get a replacement of said wiring/connectors PLEASE PM ME ASAP.

He did the """OLD SCHOOL""" test of unplugging the battery while the car is running and it shuts off now. Before it didn't do this before the alternator went bad, when the car was bought. The car did have the infamous abs issues but was cleared with a simple brake flush

SECOND ISSUE: Hunting/bucking. Cold warm or hot, take the big baby over 55-65mph and it bucks and backfires. It does this even when you crank the engine and rev it, it'll IMMEDIATELY backfires. Tried to pull codes, nothing. NOTHING! Weird

I've researched this here and all over the internet and done everything that was said, still same results. Quick run down of what I've had replaced with all brand new parts: new coolant sensor, full tune up, new distributor and ignition modulator, IAC sensor, switched 1 and 2 sparkplug wires (changed back again because it gotten worst), new MAP sensor (btw if unplugged it doesn't backfire /at all/ but sounds like a big truck and runs rich), checked all hoses no leaks, fuel lines cleaned, fuel pump replaced...that's all I can think of so far.

I will say one thing, after these little hurdles are conquered this car will run like a sewing machine. Thanks to any and all replies

PS Please excuse the car's stance, as the guys tell me at work it looks like it's either sitting down like a giant dog or about to take flight It's already been converted over, its just that the person who had the car before me did a weird hack job in the conversion. Its very bouncy[/QUOTE]