lincolnfam
LVC Member
This one's finished!
Let me start by saying this project involved lots of fabricating and other custom work. There's no easy way about it. I did the swap with a friend who's full time job is being an mechanic so we had access to a lot of really good tools and knowledge base. That being said, hopefully what I experienced and share can make it easier for the next person wanting to swap their LS.
Reason I committed to the swap was I picked up the lincoln w a misfire that I thought was a bad coil. Turned out the engine was bad. The previous owner had already replaced the engine once so I decided junkyard 3.9 was off the table. Looked for rebuild kits for the 3.9 and at the time ZERO were available. New crate engine was $5000. I figured if I'm forced to throw cash at the car, I'm gonna make it fast and do it right!!
I got a lot of good info from SKM (StuKellyMotorsports) thread on his drift LS swap, and a few other threads on here. Other technicalities just good ol google search and LS1tech etc...
ADVICE:
Oil pan that works Moroso 20138
The headers that SKM used (patriot block hugger tight tuck) and apparently worked for him DID NOT WORK for me. The casting from the factory varies too much from pair to pair, I could see with the two I had. He probably got a nicely tucked pair. We cut and re-welded mine and they still don't fully clear the steering column. Working on a solution. It is very hard to clear the steering column with the exhaust if you have it routing out the back. My advice is flip the headers around and run them out the front with turbos or something. It'll make mounting the engine easier too.
Lastly, definitely go with f-body or corvette accessory drive. We went with the truck balancer to save money and a Holley bracket that mounts the alternator down low. We ended up having to buy an aftermarket fan because it didn't clear the stock one. Even with the aftermarket fan we had to notch the engine crossmember to clear the oil pan. Also the truck balancer is extremely close to the sway bar, difficult to get belts on and off.
Had to hammer trans tunnel even with 4l60e, prob wouldnt try 4l80
Engine mounts we used stock lincoln rubber bushings and stock chevy engine plates with extra bit welded on
Trans mount we used stock lincoln mount with a little polyurethane trans mount bolted on top. you can get those at autozone/orelly
For the cluster I found a c5 factory corvette cluster used for $130. With lots of wiring and some hptuners magic we were able to make it fully work apart from the fuel level gauge - figuring that out
I'll try and answer questions but again I got most of the vehicle specific info I needed from threads on this site!
Let me start by saying this project involved lots of fabricating and other custom work. There's no easy way about it. I did the swap with a friend who's full time job is being an mechanic so we had access to a lot of really good tools and knowledge base. That being said, hopefully what I experienced and share can make it easier for the next person wanting to swap their LS.
Reason I committed to the swap was I picked up the lincoln w a misfire that I thought was a bad coil. Turned out the engine was bad. The previous owner had already replaced the engine once so I decided junkyard 3.9 was off the table. Looked for rebuild kits for the 3.9 and at the time ZERO were available. New crate engine was $5000. I figured if I'm forced to throw cash at the car, I'm gonna make it fast and do it right!!
I got a lot of good info from SKM (StuKellyMotorsports) thread on his drift LS swap, and a few other threads on here. Other technicalities just good ol google search and LS1tech etc...
ADVICE:
Oil pan that works Moroso 20138
The headers that SKM used (patriot block hugger tight tuck) and apparently worked for him DID NOT WORK for me. The casting from the factory varies too much from pair to pair, I could see with the two I had. He probably got a nicely tucked pair. We cut and re-welded mine and they still don't fully clear the steering column. Working on a solution. It is very hard to clear the steering column with the exhaust if you have it routing out the back. My advice is flip the headers around and run them out the front with turbos or something. It'll make mounting the engine easier too.
Lastly, definitely go with f-body or corvette accessory drive. We went with the truck balancer to save money and a Holley bracket that mounts the alternator down low. We ended up having to buy an aftermarket fan because it didn't clear the stock one. Even with the aftermarket fan we had to notch the engine crossmember to clear the oil pan. Also the truck balancer is extremely close to the sway bar, difficult to get belts on and off.
Had to hammer trans tunnel even with 4l60e, prob wouldnt try 4l80
Engine mounts we used stock lincoln rubber bushings and stock chevy engine plates with extra bit welded on
Trans mount we used stock lincoln mount with a little polyurethane trans mount bolted on top. you can get those at autozone/orelly
For the cluster I found a c5 factory corvette cluster used for $130. With lots of wiring and some hptuners magic we were able to make it fully work apart from the fuel level gauge - figuring that out
I'll try and answer questions but again I got most of the vehicle specific info I needed from threads on this site!
We have an 83 f-250 whose exhaust is nearly non existant, but we can still drive it. And I can run my old beater with a rusted out catalytic converter. I love not having to pass safety or emissions.