Another mod?

[pektel]

Yep. L.S.D.

It was tough getting a hold on the diff to torque the ring gear bolts, so we saw in the service manual about using "special tools". We didn't know quite what that meant, so we decided it meant make our own:

The car still looks like this though, since we're waiting on new axle seals. Should be here tomorrow morning at 10.

Oh, and f*ck whoever said this was a 2 hour job.

 

[Right on the Mark]

LOL It helps me having an 8 inch vice to hold that while you torque bolts. Good thinking on the fly.

 

[CrackerJack]

They meant 20 hour...

 

[97stscaddy]

It is a 2 hour job. Cuz you only have enough patience to work on it for 2 hours at a time.

Nice special tool!

 

[PetesSweets86]

Haha

 

[KD00LS]

Lookin good there. Whos that guy?

 

[ILLS]

Oh, and f*ck whoever said this was a 2 hour job.

It is about a 2-3 hour job. That assumes that you have all the proper parts in hand and know what you are doing. If either one of those requirements aren't met then the job will take longer. Also, is seems that you didn't take a major shortcut that Jason and I had mentioned in the one LSD thread. For this install you do not have to take the axle hub assembly apart at all. Should have removed brake caliper, unbolted the whole hub assembly from the A-arms, and remove it that way as a whole unit with the axleshaft and all.

 

[02LSE96LSC91SE84TC]

It is about a 2-3 hour job. That assumes that you have all the proper parts in hand and know what you are doing. If either one of those requirements aren't met then the job will take longer. Also, is seems that you didn't take a major shortcut that Jason and I had mentioned in the one LSD thread. For this install you do not have to take the axle hub assembly apart at all. Should have removed brake caliper, unbolted the whole hub assembly from the A-arms, and remove it that way as a whole unit with the axleshaft and all.

Yep. Leave that stuff together. I beleive we took the top control arm off so not to have to slit the upper knuckle, and just disconnected from the bottom arm. Pull the whole shabang out together. Only need to do one side too, but I did have the driveshaft out so that may not work with it still above the shield in the car.


2 hours to swap diff. The work on the diff, different story. I wouldn't know as mine was already built.

 

[pektel]

It is about a 2-3 hour job. That assumes that you have all the proper parts in hand and know what you are doing. If either one of those requirements aren't met then the job will take longer. Also, is seems that you didn't take a major shortcut that Jason and I had mentioned in the one LSD thread. For this install you do not have to take the axle hub assembly apart at all. Should have removed brake caliper, unbolted the whole hub assembly from the A-arms, and remove it that way as a whole unit with the axleshaft and all.

Shoulda, woulda, coulda, didn't. I completely forgot to reread that thread before we started. Wish I would have! I'm sure that given a fully set up shop with hoist, it would have gone a lot quicker. I didn't mean to offend, it was meant as a joke.

Yeah, we were looking at it, and this is the way we thought would be easiest. it took maybe 7 minutes to pull the axle after we figured out what to do. Of course, no hoist either, so it's on jack stands.

I think we've spent a total of 5 hours all together. But that also included phone calls, breaks, dinner, etc.

On another note, the diff was EXACTLY the same size. I was able to reuse the shims that were in there, as they were in good shape. Checked backlash after reinstalling, and it was at .004. I'm assuming that's good enough, correct?

And one more thing. The dealer gave me 80-90 instead of 75-140, saying that there's less chatter when using 80-90 with the additive. Just want to make sure I'm not going to hurt anything by running the 80-90.

 

[pektel]

Lookin good there. Whos that guy?

That's my brother in law. He's the one who's the mechanic.

 

[NYC LS8]

Make sure you've got the additive for traction lock diffs to go with that fluid!

Nice work, Pete. Once day I'll get around to this as well. Or maybe I'll just do it on my Tahoe. lol

 

[pektel]

Oh yeah, I have the friction additive. Sh*t stinks, man.

 

[NYC LS8]

Word to yo momz

 

[pektel]

I came to drop bombz.

 

[JWerner2]

Make sure you post burn out vids in the video clip thread

Remember the guy that swore his LS had LSD stock?:lol:

 

[02LSE96LSC91SE84TC]

Using 80/90 in mine....17k still working good.


Actually the shop that built my diff told me to do 80/90 as the other kinds are synthetic and synthetic and clutch style traction locks are a bad combo. To slick.


Just get that additive in there. I broke my in by doing about 50 figure 8s in a parking lot right after install......works the additive into the clutches.

 

[kustomizingkid]

I really need to ride in a non LSD non geared LS...

 

[02LSE96LSC91SE84TC]

I really need to ride in a non LSD non geared LS...

why bother?


LOL. JK.

 

[kustomizingkid]

Too see how much it sucks

 

[02LSE96LSC91SE84TC]

Too see how much it sucks

ouch.



Seriously it will still seem like its ratching though the gears fast compared to a Mark. Mine just ratchet much, much faster.

 

[kustomizingkid]

You have extra gears to go through though... not fair!

 

[pektel]

Using 80/90 in mine....17k still working good.


Actually the shop that built my diff told me to do 80/90 as the other kinds are synthetic and synthetic and clutch style traction locks are a bad combo. To slick.


Just get that additive in there. I broke my in by doing about 50 figure 8s in a parking lot right after install......works the additive into the clutches.

Hehe... suppose I'll have to if that's proper break-in procedure

 

[Right on the Mark]

That backlash is really tight. The low on backlash is .008. The # you should shoot for is .010. Range is .008 to .012. Did you measure the backlash before you took unit apart? I myself would never run a rear with .004. FYI Ford calls for only 4 ounces of friction modifier to be used if you bought the large 7 ounce brand from AZ you don't need all of it, it thins out the gear lube.

 

[pektel]

Well, now I've heard 2 different sides. One says I'll be fine, the other says he would never run it that tight. Honestly, I had no idea. The book stated .010 as ideal, and said (obviously) that a zero reading is bad. So I figured we're good since we're in between. I did not see the tolerance of .008 to .012. Not saying you are wrong, just saying I didn't see it.

I mean, it's not like i'm going to shatter the gears or anything, right? What is the negative effect of running .004?

Oh, and the bottle of friction modifier additive was really small. Probably was close to the 4 oz. you state. It was Motorcraft.

 

[Right on the Mark]

The negitive problems with tight backlash is burning up the gears. The problem is when the rear gets hot and things expand you are allowing for that with the .010 of clearance. When parts expand they can end up touching each other all the time and "wiping" out the thin layer of oil between parts thus making then run dry. When you have proper backlash ,when you get on and off the gas the lube totally covers the teeth.I have set up over 50 rears from ford to chevy to mopar and all others. The range I gave you is standard. With your setting of .004 you are 50% tighter then the low spec.