joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You want a quick answer without giving year or engine?
The odds are that you will need several parts (including the degas bottle) from Ford anyway.
-.- Another Overheating / No heat Thread
- Thread starter Travis2000LS
- Start date
You want a quick answer without giving year or engine?
The odds are that you will need several parts (including the degas bottle) from Ford anyway.
Sorry was in a rush, had posted year etc in diff thread, wasn't thinking. In panic mode posting on my phone in garage lol.
It is an 02 3.9l. Whatever is leaking sprayed all over top of motor, mostly under the enging cover and under windshield wipers. Nothing near degas, coolant has dye in it and can see splatter everywhere, but not the origin. Presently, trying to bleed system.
When my car splaTtered with coolant like that (under the engine cover) it turned out to be a small crack in my housing cap. You may want to look into changing the whole unit.
my recent overheating problem was fixed after changing my water pump. It was a pain to finally get to the overheating issue but well worth it. Might as well change as much cooling system parts as you can now because once you fix one, another will mess up.
my recent overheating problem was fixed after changing my water pump. It was a pain to finally get to the overheating issue but well worth it. Might as well change as much cooling system parts as you can now because once you fix one, another will mess up.
The thermostat housing? It's dry up there. Essentially nothing in front of the throttle body.
Please let me know if you were referring to something else. I'm not real familiar with the cooling system on these yet.
I really appreciate the help.
I havent had any overheating issue or leaks as of yesterday, just the loss of heat at idle, which happened a few weeks ago before replacing the gasket.
That tells me either
A) The leak before the repair let air in and after bleeding I still have air -but I did the proceedure correctly and have no overheating issues.
B) My aux pump is bad, but I thought I felt it working
C) As Oddball pointed out and dealt with himself the DATC isn't sending the signal -To be determined
Is there a possiblity that if I did feel the pump running and felt the outlet hose getting warm that the pump might just be "less" effective and going out? It's not a total loss of heat at idle, just very mildly warm
That tells me either
A) The leak before the repair let air in and after bleeding I still have air -but I did the proceedure correctly and have no overheating issues.
B) My aux pump is bad, but I thought I felt it working
C) As Oddball pointed out and dealt with himself the DATC isn't sending the signal -To be determined
Is there a possiblity that if I did feel the pump running and felt the outlet hose getting warm that the pump might just be "less" effective and going out? It's not a total loss of heat at idle, just very mildly warm
DARNS-seems to me there was a leak letting air into the system, trapped air stopped coolant flow, then heats up, bubbles and turns to steam that shoots out the degas bottle. Did the car overheat?
I had the same issue before I replaced my degas...no obvious leaks or cracks and then pulling onto my street the engine compartment turned into a steam cleaner. Shoots out the degas all over the engine, nothing up front.
If your degas hasnt been replaced, do it with the OEM since others havr had issues with aftermarket caps. Replace the thermostat housing while youre at it...those are the teo big areas. Roughly $300 in parts and 4-5 hrs labor tops with the right tools
I had the same issue before I replaced my degas...no obvious leaks or cracks and then pulling onto my street the engine compartment turned into a steam cleaner. Shoots out the degas all over the engine, nothing up front.
If your degas hasnt been replaced, do it with the OEM since others havr had issues with aftermarket caps. Replace the thermostat housing while youre at it...those are the teo big areas. Roughly $300 in parts and 4-5 hrs labor tops with the right tools
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
The outlet of the pump will get warm regardless of whether or not the pump is running. Coolant *will* flow through it, just not enough at idle to heat the cabin air. All coolant for the heater flows through there regardless of whether or not it is running.
Feeling and hearing the pump running is difficult. I was fooled by that when I was working on mine.
And, yes, you just need to get a voltmeter on there. The harness pulls up pretty high, so it's not hard. If that's bad, then you need to trace back and check the pins for the relay.
Feeling and hearing the pump running is difficult. I was fooled by that when I was working on mine.
And, yes, you just need to get a voltmeter on there. The harness pulls up pretty high, so it's not hard. If that's bad, then you need to trace back and check the pins for the relay.
Thats what I'm going with at the moment. I couldn't get it to happen again. It must have shot out so hard though that it completely missed everthing on on the right side of the motor including the master cylinder.
Though I also couldn't get the system to bleed right. It would build up pressure, bleed some, and then nothing. Happened when I bled it after flushing coolant a month back to, took me several days to finally get it bled out.
Man was a frustrated yesterday...neighbors had to wonder what was going on when they heard me yelling "BLEED MOTHER EFFER BLEEEEEED!" lol
