Anybody use a Motive self brake bleeder

Jtown

Jtown

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If yes, what size fits ours? I can't find the correct cap. Maybe I need to look under the Jag S series?

Also, I may have an issue. I had to move the car and use the pedal before I had fluid in the calipers (front). Really had to lay into the pedal to get it to even drag. When I put new pads on, I pulled the calipers to grease the pins. That emptied the calipers of fluid. I should have refilled them before the reinstall. My fear is, I have air in the ABS system and it's gonna be a bitch straighten it out. Gonna start with a flush. That's why I need the Motive self unit.
 
Jtown said:
If yes, what size fits ours? I can't find the correct cap. Maybe I need to look under the Jag S series?

Also, I may have an issue. I had to move the car and use the pedal before I had fluid in the calipers (front). Really had to lay into the pedal to get it to even drag. When I put new pads on, I pulled the calipers to grease the pins. That emptied the calipers of fluid. I should have refilled them before the reinstall. My fear is, I have air in the ABS system and it's gonna be a bitch straighten it out. Gonna start with a flush. That's why I need the Motive self unit.
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Any old brake bleeder tube with large plastic pop bottle will do .... I had to bleed brakes due to my front right caliper hose leaking as long as there is brake fluid in the rear brake lines ( my entire master cylinder was empty along with entire front calipers ) I installed new caliper brake line on the empty but brand new Front Right caliper I then started to add brake fluid to the reservoir ...I hooked up aquarium tubing into bottle with a little brake fluid while this was attached to front left brake caliper and proceeded to pump my brake and allow fluid back into the system I never saw so many air bubbles but continued with the front left caliper reintroducing brake fluid as the fluid and air continued to bleed out ... I would stop and check reservoir and add more fluid when needed it to me 15/20 minutes top to start seeing just fluid coming out of front left caliper ...I know there is solenoid a in this brake system so chalk it up to luck or whatever you want ... But my brakes were perfect I then proceeded to bleed farthest back right caliper all the way around snd after all said and done my brakes were like they never felt before ...nice and tight but not to tight
 
Well, you've given me a little more hope.

I like the Motive consistent pressure unit because I don't have to pump the pedal. But I guess we are beyond that considering I had to push that thing to the floor many times to get any kind of stop coming out of my garage. Wasn't thinking, forgot about the lack of brake fluid. Was going to get up on ramps to do the rear diff fluid. Hope I didn't push crap in the lines.

If the ABS needs to be activated to do a proper flush, maybe I can get enough brake action with a flush/refill to get it to a shop.

I didn't touch the rears brakes. They are fine. Front rotor and pads where shot so I replaced um.

Just got this car and it's fighten me like the flu.
 
Jtown said:
Well, you've given me a little more hope.

I like the Motive consistent pressure unit because I don't have to pump the pedal. But I guess we are beyond that considering I had to push that thing to the floor many times to get any kind of stop coming out of my garage. Wasn't thinking, forgot about the lack of brake fluid. Was going to get up on ramps to do the rear diff fluid. Hope I didn't push crap in the lines.

If the ABS needs to be activated to do a proper flush, maybe I can get enough brake action with a flush/refill to get it to a shop.

I didn't touch the rears brakes. They are fine. Front rotor and pads where shot so I replaced um.

Just got this car and it's fighten me like the flu.
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Yes it’s a temperamental little B#’s@# sometimes lol :) but on a serious not you might be surprised how well the brakes work after you do a normal brake flush and just bleed the lines like a normal car ...I was sweating bullets hoping the car wasn’t going to have every Caliper hose blow up like old faithful but after I did reintroduced the brake fluid and bled them the brakes were perfect ...The entire reservoir was empty and I imagine the brake cylinder as well it sat over night in my garage with a leaking Caliper hose
 
Let you know this weekend. Got a laundry list of stuff waiting to do. At 54k, I'm calling it a 60k refresh. All fluids, some suspension, brakes, belt, plugs, interior recon, speakers (rear), cd fix, exterior detail, alignment, polish light lens.

I'd do the cooling components but even with all the car stuff I've done, that scares me. No leak or heating issues as of now.

Then sell for a loss...
 
You have to use the generic cone adapter. It leaks really easily. But I still pressure bleed whenever possible. I've also had the hose that comes with the Motive burst. Humorously, they didn't use brake fluid safe hose. It deteriorates. I still use all the adapters, but made a replacement pressure vessel out of a cheap garden sprayer.
I've never done an ABS bleed procedure on the LS, but it'd be a good idea. Forscan might be able to initiate it. If not, then you need a scan tool with the "ABS" system capability, usually sold as a "four system" unit.

Why did you disconnect the calipers to grease the slide pins? You can just hang the calipers out of the way. The only time the caliper needs to be disconnected is to replace the caliper or the hose.
 
I used the Motive BB on my LS for the brakes. It worked great. I got the fitting for Ford cars. #0107 I think is the right one.
 
joegr said:
If you mean the ones on the rear deck, those are subs, and they need to be two ohms to work with the factory amp.
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Not to disagree, but the Polk DB692 I installed in the rear deck are rated at 4 ohms, and i haven't noticed any adverse effects. If anything they work the amp a little easier because of the reduced output... But still blend well with the rest of the Polk 5x7's and the factory system.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Not to disagree, but the Polk DB692 I installed in the rear deck are rated at 4 ohms, and i haven't noticed any adverse effects. If anything they work the amp a little easier because of the reduced output... But still blend well with the rest of the Polk 5x7's and the factory system.
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Well, at four ohms they will get a lot less power from the amp, probably a 1/4th the power depending on the amp's source impedance.
 
If after bleeding the brakes, there still seems to be air in the system at or before the ABS actuator... A backyard mechanic trick that seems to work for those who don't have the proper scan tool... is as follows.

Find a deserted road and put each side of the wheels in the berm stone and apply the brakes just hard enough to kick in the ABS. Do this a few times and then re-bleed.

Disclaimer : Do this at your own risk... and obey all traffic and safety laws.
 
joegr said:
Well, at four ohms they will get a lot less power from the amp, probably a 1/4th the power depending on the amp's source impedance.
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The general rule is as resistance doubles... amplifier power requirements and/or draw are cut in half... and vice- versa... depending on the amplifier design.
 
In general, but it seemed (in this specific case) more like a 6dB drop. Of course, I could well be wrong.
 
Me too. That would be roughly a 2/3 to 3/4 cut in amplifier power. I didn't notice that big of a drop in volume. I'd be curious to see the full specs on the amp.
 
Yeah, I've love to see the schematic. I did have one fail, so of course I took it apart. It seems like a strange design to me. I didn't expect to see something driving 2 ohm speakers to be doing it through transformers. I didn't trace it out, but that's what it looked like. (I think the failure was one or more of the electrolytic caps.)
 
You mean old school iron core? That means it probably had a decent amount of headroom. That would explain its ability to do 4 ohm decently. If I had to guess... I'd say the factory speakers are rated at an inefficient 86-87 db rating. IIRC ... The Polks are rated at 92 db.
 
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You guys are off on a speaker tangent... I installed two new deck factory subs/speakers. Will say I found two companies with a wide range in price. Of course, I bought the expensive ones ($134 t/s) before I found the other ($98 t/s).

I tried the Motive bleeder but (being my first time using it) it didn't work. I used 18psi but didn't want to go higher without knowing the (LS) systems limit. Fluid wouldn't come through the lines. I think the bleeder will work on my other cars and the LS in the future when doing a simple replace.

Went old school and had my kid pump the pedal. That got things moving. How much fluid is int eh ABS system? After three 12oz bottles of FMC Dot 3, it was still off color bleeding. Maybe it has never been done? Anyway, brakes seem to be fine now.

Pulled calipers to completely clean and regrease as necessary. Installed Brembo rotors and FMC pads.
 
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