Autolite Spark Plugs!??

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lsbit

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Well, like every car I own, I had to take it apart before I owned it a full 7 days. :) I replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket and while I was in there, I found someone else was there before me. There was one bolt missing for the coil cover, one incorrect bolt on one of the coils (NOT EVEN CLOSE), and the wrong spark plugs. They were 3925s or 3924s. WTH?? Anyway, not much oil in the wells, but you could see where oil had hit there at one time. Now I know there are four seals for the plug wells that need to be replaced also. I will have part numbers and info on my website when I put it up.

Should I get rid of those spark plugs and put the correct platinum plugs in? I think the answer is yes, but I wondered if anyone was running these plugs with success. I am getting a slight miss now and then still. It was running pretty bad when I got it back together and figured the one coil pack that had a broken connector(not quite as bad as it sounds) was the cause, so I replaced it and now it runs about like it did before, but no oil smell. :) I sure hope it was that valve cover gasket that was leaking onto the exhaust manifold! Also, I replaced the coil with an Advance Auto part as everything else was closed or out of stock. Anyone had luck with aftermarket coils?

I haven't attempted the driver's side yet. That one looks much more difficult, and I don't have anything to remove the coil cover bolt closest to the brake booster. None of my ratchets would fit. Maybe I will need to get a 7mm box wrench??

Well...the car is becoming mine now. I just can't call a car mine if I can't take it apart and put it back together. BTW, it took me a LONG time to do that gasket! It would take me a couple of hours now though. My manual had not come in yet, and it took awhile to find out what combo of tools would fit in those tight places.
 
You need a shop manual to tell you what tools you need to do the job? I hope not! Taking off the drivers side cam cover is easier if the cowling and brace is removed. (remove wiper arms first, then remove push clips, remove cowl, then unbolt brace... be sure to oil all 7 bolts before trying to remove them, the bolts on the ends can be accessed from the inside of the wheel wells, spray them generously with penetrating oil... the bolts will break VERY easily if rusted) I use a compact 1/4 drive snap on ratchet.. all my mac and craftsman ratchets have too large of a head to get in this tight spot. It's a pain, but you'll get it. If you are still having trouble, simply remove the brake booster from the fire wall, and brake pedal, and move it out of the way.... this isnt as hard as it sounds.

You will also need a 1/2 fuel line disconnect tool to remove the fuel line.
 
lsbit said:
Well, like every car I own, I had to take it apart before I owned it a full 7 days. :) I replaced the passenger side valve cover gasket and while I was in there, I found someone else was there before me. There was one bolt missing for the coil cover, one incorrect bolt on one of the coils (NOT EVEN CLOSE), and the wrong spark plugs. They were 3925s or 3924s. WTH?? Anyway, not much oil in the wells, but you could see where oil had hit there at one time. Now I know there are four seals for the plug wells that need to be replaced also. I will have part numbers and info on my website when I put it up.

Should I get rid of those spark plugs and put the correct platinum plugs in? I think the answer is yes, but I wondered if anyone was running these plugs with success. I am getting a slight miss now and then still. It was running pretty bad when I got it back together and figured the one coil pack that had a broken connector(not quite as bad as it sounds) was the cause, so I replaced it and now it runs about like it did before, but no oil smell. :) I sure hope it was that valve cover gasket that was leaking onto the exhaust manifold! Also, I replaced the coil with an Advance Auto part as everything else was closed or out of stock. Anyone had luck with aftermarket coils?

I haven't attempted the driver's side yet. That one looks much more difficult, and I don't have anything to remove the coil cover bolt closest to the brake booster. None of my ratchets would fit. Maybe I will need to get a 7mm box wrench??

Well...the car is becoming mine now. I just can't call a car mine if I can't take it apart and put it back together. BTW, it took me a LONG time to do that gasket! It would take me a couple of hours now though. My manual had not come in yet, and it took awhile to find out what combo of tools would fit in those tight places.
Click to expand...

Platinum plugs greatest plus is their long service life. Beyond that, there's little reason to use them.
 
I personally love the Iridium plugs. I put the NGK Iridium in the Cobra last month. Although the factory autolite plantinums, I pulled out looked brand new and it has 65k miles. The Iridium plugs seem to rev a bit smoother.. Makes me think that they probably helped a bit. Ofcourse you could spend some big bucks and get the Denso Iridium. But you cant go wrong with Platinum or Iridium for long life that is for sure. Good luck.
 
Thanks all. I am still feeling a miss now and then, so I am going to swap the plugs and see how that goes. If that doesn't do it, I will swap around the new coil. :) My '89 SHO was very picky about the plugs used in it, so I spent the extra $20.00 to use the Ford plugs. Even the Autolite parts weren't quite right. Most SHO guys ran into this sort of problem and I was wondering the LS was as picky. I think the LS plugs are the same as the SHO plugs, actually.
 
I replaced my plugs w/ Autolite single-platnums when I did my VC gaskets. The driver's side coil cover can be removed w/ a 7mm box wrench to get that one by the booster. A 10mm 1/4" drive socket, short extension and ratchet can get to the upper-rear VC bolt (have to snake it behind the bracket there that seems to float in space above the cover). You don't have to remove the cowl or brake booster to get that side done. One other tip, if your dipstick tube doesn't come out easily, leave it in and bend it slightly out of the way to allow the cover to come off. The tab/bolt hole that secures the top of the tube will have to be bent to clear the bolt.
 
Again...the man with the answers. Using a 7mm box wrench did work for me. I have not replaced the driver's side VC gasket yet though, just the plugs. I figured I would take the rest of the weekend off. :) Does disconnecting that fuel line make a pretty good mess?

JohnnyBz00LS said:
I replaced my plugs w/ Autolite single-platnums when I did my VC gaskets. The driver's side coil cover can be removed w/ a 7mm box wrench to get that one by the booster. A 10mm 1/4" drive socket, short extension and ratchet can get to the upper-rear VC bolt (have to snake it behind the bracket there that seems to float in space above the cover). You don't have to remove the cowl or brake booster to get that side done. One other tip, if your dipstick tube doesn't come out easily, leave it in and bend it slightly out of the way to allow the cover to come off. The tab/bolt hole that secures the top of the tube will have to be bent to clear the bolt.
Click to expand...
 
lsbit said:
Again...the man with the answers. Using a 7mm box wrench did work for me. I have not replaced the driver's side VC gasket yet though, just the plugs. I figured I would take the rest of the weekend off. :) Does disconnecting that fuel line make a pretty good mess?
Click to expand...

There is a "schrader valve" on the fuel rail that you can use to release pressure. I let mine sit overnight and had hardly any residual pressure in the morning. Still, it helps to put a rag under the fuel-line connector to abosorb any "dripage", which is unadvoidable. Just don't be smokin' anything!
 
Right -if you let it sit for a while there will be no presure left in the line. Remember you need a special fuel line disconnect tool to pop the schrader valve apart - you can get it at autozone for a couple of bucks.
 
Ok, is it me or am I just not getting it..

I tried to replace my spark plugs this weekend.. But I only replace 1/2 of them... Specifically the right side (passenger side).. That took about 2 hours cause of that freakin last bottom screw.. but I got it though!!!!

What do I have to do (besides blowing it away w/ a shot gun) to get to the left side (drivers side) plugs? Do I have to take ALL those tubes, degass bottle, etc.. off to get to the cover and give me reasonable clearance to work with??

Any ideas on how to change out the drivers side plugs would VERY much be appreciated.
 
crotchrocket said:
I personally love the Iridium plugs. I put the NGK Iridium in the Cobra last month. Although the factory autolite plantinums, I pulled out looked brand new and it has 65k miles. The Iridium plugs seem to rev a bit smoother.. Makes me think that they probably helped a bit. Ofcourse you could spend some big bucks and get the Denso Iridium. But you cant go wrong with Platinum or Iridium for long life that is for sure. Good luck.
Click to expand...

I bought the denso plugs and am very pleased with them. I will be anxious to see if they can go the distance.
 
Dutch said:
Are cheapo copper plugs ok for the LS?
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I am not sure how long they were in my LS, but it couldn't have been that long as the car had 67,000 miles on it. I can tell you that they looked like hell. The COPs put out some good power. I replaced them with the stock platinums and it runs great now. They are not that expensive and I hope not to get back into it for a LONG time.
 
lsbit said:
I am not sure how long they were in my LS, but it couldn't have been that long as the car had 67,000 miles on it. I can tell you that they looked like hell. The COPs put out some good power. I replaced them with the stock platinums and it runs great now. They are not that expensive and I hope not to get back into it for a LONG time.
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I am confident that the reason why they say every 100k miles for a tune up is becasue the amount of work is absolutely ridiculous and if you were to take it to a shop it would be insanely expensive to do every 30k miles hell even every 50k miles.
 
Can I get the information on changing the spark plugs. I am having a mis-fire issue also. I replaced Coil Pack #1 and #4, and I want to change the plugs to insure that I should continue to replace the coil packs.

BS
 
Ford actually recommends NOT using platinum plugs. They have had some issues. I don't know what they are, but I trust the people who told me, so I believe them. Since there isn't any real hp to be gained by plugs, why wouldn't you just use the factory Motorcraft plug? You know it is the correct application! And unless you have engine issues, it will probably be the last set of plugs you ever install. When they say 100,000 miles, they aren't too far off. I've seen a ton of high mileage plugs with these new ignition systems that look very, very good.

Also, the plugs from the factory have two different numbers...one set on each side. This is normal. The replacements you get will all be one number. This too is normal.
 
Bstanton said:
Can I get the information on changing the spark plugs. I am having a mis-fire issue also. I replaced Coil Pack #1 and #4, and I want to change the plugs to insure that I should continue to replace the coil packs.

BS
Click to expand...

It's pretty easy to do the plugs after you get the coil packs off. Just a standard spark plug socket and an extension will do it. Just start those new plugs by hand with the extension so you don't accidentally cross-thread. I use a little bit of anti-sieze also. One thing I learned about anti-sieze is that you don't want to tighten the plugs down too tight. If the torque spec was 20, go with 15 or so. I have 2 LSs now and have removed the plugs for other tests many times since I started this thread. BTW, I did replace them with the platinum stock plugs in both cars.
 
2001LS8Sport said:
Ford actually recommends NOT using platinum plugs.
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For certain cars maybe? I know I would never use them in my Edelbrock headed 302. Autolite 3924's baby! I know people have had performance issues with other plugs in certain cars, but no word on the LS.
 
lsbit said:
For certain cars maybe? I know I would never use them in my Edelbrock headed 302. Autolite 3924's baby! I know people have had performance issues with other plugs in certain cars, but no word on the LS.
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I was specifically told not to use them on the LS. It has something to do with the COP ignition system the way I understand it. But I didn't go into detail with him. He has NEVER steered me wrong (he's a FLM dealer) nor has he EVER tried to BS me.

So my point is, why not use the Motorcraft's like they call for since you will not realize any significant performance increase with any other plug? That way you know you have the correct plug installed.
 
lsbit said:
For certain cars maybe? I know I would never use them in my Edelbrock headed 302. Autolite 3924's baby! I know people have had performance issues with other plugs in certain cars, but no word on the LS.
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I agree with that too. I had an '89 LX 5.0 that ran mid 12's with perfect street manners. I had the AFR 165 heads on it. I ran Autolites in it only because that is the plug that AFR recommended.
 
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