AutoZone - duralast ball joints

[lincolnelite]

These ball joints are just a piece of crap. What I thought was a squeaking strut mount (or strut) was actually the ball joints. It's only 3 yrs old and the boot started to have cracks (and probably is open) Same thing with the tie rod ends since I replaced them at the same time. The tie rods don't squeak but the boots have cracks too.
I bought cheaper ball joints before (Mevotech) but these Duralast ones are not DURAble and doesn't LAST.

I got a set of front strut mounts (motorcraft) $80 for both and shipping included, anybody interested?

 

[Ragged2Riches]

I pretty much stay away from Duracrap anymore. Everything with the name on it is the cheapest of the cheap. Brake pads, suspension parts, hydraulics, electronics, everything.
If I absolutely have to, I try to get parts from O'reilly or Napa. I have had better luck with their brands than other places. I try to stick to Rockauto if I don't need it that day.

 

[jerryg2112]

I agree. I only go to Autozone as a last resort. I try to replace suspension parts with Moog. I've had good results with them. Also sometimes they have re engineered their parts to address a problem that the factory parts had.

 

[dfoy50]

moog and only moog

I agree. I only go to Autozone as a last resort. I try to replace suspension parts with Moog. I've had good results with them. Also sometimes they have re engineered their parts to address a problem that the factory parts had.

i only use moog as well the few extra dollars and 1000's of extra miles makes it worth while

 

[lincolnelite]

I replaced the driver side ball joint with Moog this weekend and the squeaking noise is gone as well as the vibration I felt at 70+ mph. The passenger side going to tackle next week (it squeaks a little and not very loose compared to the driver side)
the rubber boot just fell apart and dried up the grease inside the ball joint causing it to squeak especially during cold temperature and moving slow. there's no grease left in my case and if you rock the tire between 9 and 3 the ball joint movement is noticeable.

 

[jerryg2112]

Side to side movement could also be steering linkage.

 

[BILLBOATS]

Is this job of replacing lower balls difficult for an experienced guy with tools and his own garage?What about replacing the upper and lower controll arms with new balls in them

 

[jerryg2112]

I've changed both front and rear ball joints on my 99 conti. The fronts are lower and the rear are upper. They press in to the spindle assembly. They are not part of the control arms. Parts listed with them in the control arms are incorrectly listed or the wrong parts. The job isn't to difficult for an experienced guy. You'll need a ball joint separator and a ball joint press though. I thought the rears were easier than the front.

 

[aerovette99]

I've changed both front and rear ball joints on my 99 conti. The fronts are lower and the rear are upper. They press in to the spindle assembly. They are not part of the control arms. Parts listed with them in the control arms are incorrectly listed or the wrong parts. The job isn't to difficult for an experienced guy. You'll need a ball joint separator and a ball joint press though. I thought the rears were easier than the front.

Any advice for those of us that are getting ready to do this job? I'm replacing front ball joints, sway bar links, outer tie rods and Strut mounts

 

[jerryg2112]

Not much that I can remember. I got rid of the conti almost 4 years ago. When you separate the ball joint leave the nut on the end of the thread so it doesn't fly apart when it breaks free. Keep hitting it and progressively applying pressure instead of just pressure till it breaks free. The right press and sleeves will make all the difference. I used a homemade one and I'm sure it was a lot more trouble than the right tool. Links are easy. Never messed with the struts only the rear shocks. Good luck.

 

[aerovette99]

Not much that I can remember. I got rid of the conti almost 4 years ago. When you separate the ball joint leave the nut on the end of the thread so it doesn't fly apart when it breaks free. Keep hitting it and progressively applying pressure instead of just pressure till it breaks free. The right press and sleeves will make all the difference. I used a homemade one and I'm sure it was a lot more trouble than the right tool. Links are easy. Never messed with the struts only the rear shocks. Good luck.

Thanks so much for chiming in. There's a video on this, but it isn't the best quality.

 

[Svets96]

Here is my thread on : Here are websites for Lincoln parts and supplier info

Go to post # 18. It explains the procedure pretty good. I don't know if this is the video you were referring too??

Hope this helps

-Svets

 

[aerovette99]

1999 LINCOLN CONTINENTAL FRONT BALL JOINTS, STRUT MOUNTS, OUTER TIE RODS, AND SWAY BAR LINK JOB IS COMPLETED....
It was a long weekend but this job is completed. Thank GOD for the Taurus ball joint removal tool. cannot imagine it is possible without it. Alignment came back nearly flawless with only a slight toe adjustment needed.

 

[Svets96]

Great Job!!! Glad everything went well for you.

Nice Conti by the way, its very clean.

 

[aerovette99]

Great Job!!! Glad everything went well for you.

Nice Conti by the way, its very clean.

Thanks!!