aux pump

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01LS3.9

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Lseguy write in a recent post that he was having no heat at any time and it still ended up being his aux pump. In the post he mentioned that a shop tested the pump and it showed having no power. Can someone explain how this is checked? I can get access to any needed tool, I just need instructions on how to do it. Thank you for your help!

I have the same issue. No heat. Ever. I was overheating and losing coolant. Changed the Degas and bleed per the instructions. I had a stay stream from the bleeder valve. I hear what sounds like it could be a pump trying to work, but I thought it was my power steering pump. So I'd like to test the aux pump to see if it's working.
 
Get a volt meter and check for 12V across the two wires going to the pump when the engine is running and the heat is on. If you have power there and the pump is not running, you need a new pump or to change to brushes in the pump. You should be able to feel the pump and tell if it is running.

If you don't get 12V, then you have a wiring problem or a bad DATC.
 
Joe, my man, you come to the rescue every time! Thanks. Now, I'm going to all you a question and you probably are going to roll your eyes and move on to the next post. And I don't blame you. lol

How do I use the volt meter to check? I know what the tool looks like but I have never used it before. *runs and hides from the stones being thrown lol

Never mind, I just googled it. I figured I would give you a break. Thanks again for your insight, Joe. Your help really is appreciated around her.
 
lol Yeah, thanks Loud. That's one of the ones I watched. Just don't want to blow the car up! lol
 
You might want to find someone local to get you going on the basics.

As for LSEGUY, replacing the aux pump opens the coolant system, so you have to rebleed. Which means it could have been an air bubble that finally came out after that work.
 
In my 2002 LSE V8 with 160k miles (I am original owner), couple months ago I had the upper coolant tower plastic pipe crack. So I replaced that along with putting in a new thermostat and thermostat housing. All new OEM parts. (Degas bottle was replaced (for second time) earlier in 2012.)

After the parts replacement above(couple months ago) I bled..rebled..rebled..rebled..by the book, the cooling system. While I had no overheating issue, I suddenly had zero heat coming into the cabin no matter what. My first guess was a piece of the broken plastic from that cracked part found its way down and clogged some alleged filter inside the T part of the coolant hose that heads down to the aux pump. Pulled that hose, flushed, and nothing was in there/all was good.

Rebled again, and still no heat.

Ran the self diagnostic code procedure which showed no fault codes.

Ordered a DCCV (new OEM) and didnt have time to put it in so took the LS to an independent repair shop who diagnosed and said the issue was the actual AUX PUMP that was faulty. (they noticed the coolant hose going into the aux pump got hot but the coolant hoses exiting the aux pump were cold) They tested by connecting the aux pump directly to a 12v source. No clicking/no motor running/nothing.

Since they were in there I told them to go ahead and replace the DCCV as well. Its possible the old DCCV was still functional, but at 11 years and 160k miles...why take the chance since I already had the part.

All is well now 2 weeks post repair. No overheating, and plenty of heat into the cabin
 
The aux pump not running should not stop you from getting heat at highway speeds. However, it's very possible that the aux pump was clogged, which would stop all heat.
 
joegr said:
The aux pump not running should not stop you from getting heat at highway speeds. However, it's very possible that the aux pump was clogged, which would stop all heat.
Click to expand...

Would a clogged pump still try to work but be unable to produce heat?
 
01LS3.9 said:
Would a clogged pump still try to work but be unable to produce heat?
Click to expand...

check the temp of the hoses on both sides of the pump, if both sides are hot, then the pump probably is not clogged.
 
Thanks guys. I will do this in the morning since I'm going in late to work. My car was doing quite a bit of wandering today. I know I need an alignment, but the swaying was or of hand. And the steering wheel was vibrating quite a bit, too. Thinking I'll be changing my tie rods in the morning. This sucks!
 
also check the rear adjustable links for play, this is a major source of swaying from my car and is top of the list of parts getting ordered while she takes most of the season off.
 
1LoudLS said:
also check the rear adjustable links for play, this is a major source of swaying from my car and is top of the list of parts getting ordered while she takes most of the season off.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up. I'll have to see if I can find it! lol

In other news, I did the self test to see if my DCCV or whatever it's called is working correctly. This is my result:

20130115_092005.jpg


Good or no good?
 
Thanks, Joe. Going to a shop thus morning to check my tie rods/ball joints. The swerving last night scared the crap out of me.
 
Couple of quick questions...

Is the aux pump somewhere in this pic or is it hidden below that stuff?

20130116_125456.jpg


Am I missing some important relays? Obviously there are blank spaces but I mean am I missing ones that need to be there and if so, what are they?

20130116_125435.jpg


Could that be the pump making that nose in this clip?
player.swf
 
01LS3.9 said:
...Am I missing some? Obviously there are blank spaces but I mean am I missing ones that need to be there and if so, what are they?
Click to expand...

Am I missing something? We've jumped from a heating problem to looking at the ABS? No, you're not missing any brake line connections. If you were, you wouldn't have any brakes.
 
01LS3.9 said:
...
Am I missing some important relays? Obviously there are blank spaces but I mean am I missing ones that need to be there and if so, what are they?

...
Click to expand...

You can get a PDF of your owner's manual from the tech articles section. Looking at pages 177 and 178, your underhood distribution box is not populated the same way as the manual indicates. I wouldn't go switching things around though. Maybe the documentation is wrong.
 
Maybe it's the quality of the sound clip, but that sounds rather metallic, almost like something in the valve train.
 
Thanks, fellas. I have a mechanic doing my tie rods in the morning. I'll ask him about the noise.
 
joegr said:
Am I missing something? We've jumped from a heating problem to looking at the ABS? No, you're not missing any brake line connections. If you were, you wouldn't have any brakes.
Click to expand...

Sorry about the confusion. The picture must have been cut off. I'm don't everything from my phone, hence the random words provided by Swype.

The picture you referenced was asking about the aux pump. If it's in that picture or somewhere deep inside. The right side of the picture is the passenger side of the radiator.
 
01LS3.9 said:
Sorry about the confusion. The picture must have been cut off. I'm don't everything from my phone, hence the random words provided by Swype.

The picture you referenced was asking about the aux pump. If it's in that picture or somewhere deep inside. The right side of the picture is the passenger side of the radiator.
Click to expand...

The aux pump and the DCCV are hidden below the AC receiver/dryer in the picture. There's no way to see it from that picture.
 
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