aux pump
- Thread starter 01LS3.9
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1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
If your thermostat was not opening allowing coolant to flow through the motor, then your car would be overheating.
I do have an 01 v8. This came out of a salvage 2000 v8. I didn't see anything on the body of the part, only on the sticker.
Thanks, I figured as much re the thermostat.
I never got to install it last night. Went to the store, someone asks me if I own a lincoln and that there are flames coming from my hood. I Run out and see steam. A very fine jet of coolant is spraying out from the hose on the far left of the Degas bottle at the worm clamp. I tighten it, it stops. I Turn the cat on and I have a charging system failure warning and I'm overheating. Open the hood and see my serpentine belt is pretty much hanging there but still in one piece and looks fine. I muscle it a quarter mile down the street (no power steering because of belt) to my mechanic and leave it there. I'll hear something from him later today. Good luck on yours.
RigsLS
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oh no !!!
when it rains, it pours!
man, so terribly sorry about your luck, deep breath, you'll get out of this one to.
just think of all the nice heat you'll have when said and done.
all the best 100%
LOL ~ "flames coming from your hood". Those Walmart people!
when it rains, it pours!
man, so terribly sorry about your luck, deep breath, you'll get out of this one to.
just think of all the nice heat you'll have when said and done.
all the best 100%
LOL ~ "flames coming from your hood". Those Walmart people!
Good luck. Keep us posted.
RigsLS
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Yeah, I was talking to my Mechanic buddy and he said to reverse flush the heater core while I was at it.
With the hoses disconnected at the DCCV, it's apparently easier to do it from there then at the firewall it's self.
Talked about some chemical to put in and let sit for 10 min. prior to flushing but I'll have to check that info some more.
With the hoses disconnected at the DCCV, it's apparently easier to do it from there then at the firewall it's self.
Talked about some chemical to put in and let sit for 10 min. prior to flushing but I'll have to check that info some more.
Anyone know if the aux pump is somehow connected with the A/C relay?
I think I've been having a power draw and since I tapped into the A/C clutch wire to run my electric fan I figured it would be a good place to start. When I removed the fuse (car off) it sparked -and did so everytime I plugged the fuse in and pulled it and i could hear something clicking around the DCCV.
So through process of elimination I unplugged the aux pump since it's easier to get to than DCCV - low and behold the sparking is gone when pulling the fuse. I have noticed heating issues at idle sometimes, but would a failing aux pump cause a shorting and is it tied into the clutch? Seems strange
I think I've been having a power draw and since I tapped into the A/C clutch wire to run my electric fan I figured it would be a good place to start. When I removed the fuse (car off) it sparked -and did so everytime I plugged the fuse in and pulled it and i could hear something clicking around the DCCV.
So through process of elimination I unplugged the aux pump since it's easier to get to than DCCV - low and behold the sparking is gone when pulling the fuse. I have noticed heating issues at idle sometimes, but would a failing aux pump cause a shorting and is it tied into the clutch? Seems strange
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Send me a PM tomorrow to remind me to check the wiring manual - I'm traveling right now. IIRC, that fuse does power both but it's been quite a while since I looked at that section.
The aux pump does go through a relay that is signaled by the DATC, so it's highly unlikely that is causing the problem. Anything quirky with the fan wiring would certainly cause a problem. Are you coming from the protected side of the fuse?
The aux pump does go through a relay that is signaled by the DATC, so it's highly unlikely that is causing the problem. Anything quirky with the fan wiring would certainly cause a problem. Are you coming from the protected side of the fuse?
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Following info from the '02 service manuals.
Fuse 1 feeds both the A/C clutch relay and the aux pump relay. The fuse is hot at all times, with power to the devices controlled by the relays. In both cases, those relays are signaled by the DATC.
If you're getting sparks when car is off, then one of the relays must be stuck. Try pulling each and testing. I'm assuming the aux pump relay is stuck. If the pump was seized the fuse would blow. A stuck relay would certainly cause a constant power draw as the pump would be running continuously. Your owner's manual has the relay listing and diagram in the Emergency section.
Fuse 1 feeds both the A/C clutch relay and the aux pump relay. The fuse is hot at all times, with power to the devices controlled by the relays. In both cases, those relays are signaled by the DATC.
If you're getting sparks when car is off, then one of the relays must be stuck. Try pulling each and testing. I'm assuming the aux pump relay is stuck. If the pump was seized the fuse would blow. A stuck relay would certainly cause a constant power draw as the pump would be running continuously. Your owner's manual has the relay listing and diagram in the Emergency section.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Pretty sure the AC clutch relay is controlled by the PCM. (The DATC does tell the PCM if it wants the AC on or off. The PCM will override this and turn the AC clutch off if (1) the engine overheats, (2) idle speed is too low, or (3) the throttle (gen I) is at WOT or the gas pedal (gen II) is pushed all the way down, or (4) refrigerant pressure is too high or too low.)
You guys are the masters! I will pull the relays. Interestingly enough, I didn't notice the pump running with the car off. Of course, I think it runs quiet as a mouse.
Riddle me this though. If the aux pump was getting power and staying on, wouldn't the coolant be blocked somewhere (i.e. DCCV, or all the way back at the T-stat) therefore creating higher pressure and overloading the pump and blowing a fuse? I wonder why this wouldn't have happened?
Riddle me this though. If the aux pump was getting power and staying on, wouldn't the coolant be blocked somewhere (i.e. DCCV, or all the way back at the T-stat) therefore creating higher pressure and overloading the pump and blowing a fuse? I wonder why this wouldn't have happened?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The power to the relays remains on all the time, but the relays are usually or always off when the key is off. (The manual does say that the aux pump may run with engine off to help cool it, but I have never caught either of mine doing that. The manual may be wrong.)
I know that this seems to go against common sense, but I promise that this is the way it works for impeller pumps. If you block the inlet or the outlet, they then take way less power to run and are under less stress. This is why your vacuum cleaner speeds way up when you block the suction. If you put a power meter of it, you would see it takes way less power when blocked. This is also the same for the belt driven water pump. When the thermostat is closed, it takes less power from the engine.
Here's one way to look at it, the pump does work (which takes power) when it moves the coolant from one place to another. When the coolant isn't moving (blocked by a valve) then it's not doing work. The power it draws then is just enough for the friction in the pump and the agitation of the fluid around the impeller.
oddball
Dedicated LVC Member
Joe's right on the A/C relay. I had only traced the aux pump wiring when I was working on my heating issues way-back-when. That one is a straight shot from the DATC.
metalriff
LVC Member
Im assuming that just has a impeller inside and if not spinning will block flow. Can I just bypass the dumb thing? I would think the engine water pump probably has enough flow since mine is brand new. Thanks
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Sure. Engine cooling will be fine, but you won't have any heat inside when you are at idle. An old, working, water pump moves just as much water as a new one. Needing the aux pump has more to do with the design of the coolant loops than with the capacity of the water pump.
RigsLS
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The auxiliary coolant pump:
- provides heater coolant flow boost.
- has a secondary function of providing engine-off cooling.
The auxiliary coolant flow pump is electrically driven and provides increased coolant flow during low engine speed operation. The pump is also used to circulate coolant after the engine is turned off under certain conditions.
If the auxiliary coolant pump is inoperative, you will notice reduced heater performance at low speeds and at idle.
If too little coolant is circulated, the blower fan will pull enough heat out of the coolant and cause the heater core to get cold. (quicker)
In addition to providing assisted coolant flow for interior cabin heat at low RPM, this "dumb thing" also continues to assist with coolant flow cool-down after you walk away from it.
The only "dumb thing" here would be to bypass, remove or not replace it, you'll need it come winter!
Coolant Flow // Item #21 - Auxiliary coolant pump
The auxiliary coolant pump is declared faulty/defective/not working, when there is sufficient interior heat during higher RPM's but no heat during idle RPM's. In other words, when there is no heat from the vents during idle but lots of heat during driving speeds, it's time to replace the 12V BOSCH coolant pump.
Re&Re - OEM Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump - GEN 1 V8
metalriff
LVC Member
The auxiliary coolant pump:
- provides heater coolant flow boost.
- has a secondary function of providing engine-off cooling.
The auxiliary coolant flow pump is electrically driven and provides increased coolant flow during low engine speed operation. The pump is also used to circulate coolant after the engine is turned off under certain conditions.
If the auxiliary coolant pump is inoperative, you will notice reduced heater performance at low speeds and at idle.
If too little coolant is circulated, the blower fan will pull enough heat out of the coolant and cause the heater core to get cold. (quicker)
In addition to providing assisted coolant flow for interior cabin heat at low RPM, this "dumb thing" also continues to assist with coolant flow cool-down after you walk away from it.
The only "dumb thing" here would be to bypass, remove or not replace it, you'll need it come winter!
Coolant Flow // Item #21 - Auxiliary coolant pump
The auxiliary coolant pump is declared faulty/defective/not working, when there is sufficient interior heat during higher RPM's but no heat during idle RPM's. In other words, when there is no heat from the vents during idle but lots of heat during driving speeds, it's time to replace the 12V BOSCH coolant pump.
Re&Re - OEM Auxiliary Coolant Flow Pump - GEN 1 V8
Thanks for all the help. I can hear the aux pump running somtimes after the car shuts off. Replaced thermostat, degas bottle, thermostat housing, water pump, now it was bled by a ford dealer, no overheating issues but 0 heat, not luke warm nothing. both heater hoses are hot. Blower motor works fine and doors switch air from vent to floor to defrost ok. Dealer said no idea.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Your DCCV could be clogged or stuck closed. Use google site search for LS no heat. (I know, here we go again.) One guy even found that someone had shoved stoppers into his heater hoses instead of replacing a defective DCCV. Hot to the touch heater hoses don't always indicate flow. Everything in the engine compartment gets pretty hot.
metalriff
LVC Member
Thanks Joe I will keep digging.
RigsLS
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GEN I - Understanding Climate Control System - No Heat Information
During my no heat adventures, I had to replace both the aux pump and DCCV at the same time.
BUT then again, I also was replacing the entire cooling system at the time.
During my no heat adventures, I had to replace both the aux pump and DCCV at the same time.
BUT then again, I also was replacing the entire cooling system at the time.
Jack Flash
Active LVC Member
Good point. If no work has ever been done to the cooling system, and the pump one day fails, should the whole system be renewed at the same time anyway ? Obviously this would be good preventive measure, but is it really necessary every time ?
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
it depends on age and miles... if the parts are about that age where they should be replaced and the water pump fails (and the car overheats) it could push the parts into needing to be changed now vs the very near future...