Balljoint Failure
- Thread starter nghtshd88
- Start date
So did you ever find out your problem? My front end does this too when it’s cold outside. I replaced the lower ball joints a few years ago, but wondered if how we pressed them in affected the spindle itself.
The only other thing I can think of is the inner tie rods, which would be so much easier and cheaper
If a ball joint dust cover is cracked, does that mean the joint needs to be replaced? This is regarding the front and rear upper arms (rear in my case). Or, can I just replace the boot covers? How do you know if it’s still good?
I grew up always thinking they need to be replaced anytime the cover is cracked and broken.
I grew up always thinking they need to be replaced anytime the cover is cracked and broken.
I've read that in the UK, you'll fail inspection if the boots are cracked. Consequently there are a lot of shops out there that will simply replace the boot.
From my understanding, if you can move the joint easily with your hands, or if the joint can be moved around a bit using a pry bar then it's prob toast. Check the youtube video a couple posts up.
Did you ever find out what the problem was? Ball joint?
I get the same issue when temperatures get below 40-50 outside. Originally pressed in Moogs 4 years ago and wonder if the knuckle got warped and the joint is bad. I have the same noise as that video.
Just realized I posted this question before to no response. I’ll probably look to source new knuckles since I’m betting it’s a lower ball joint issue. Ugh
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Normally... to check a, (lower) ball joint,,, you would jack up the lower control arm enough to get the tire off the ground... then you would put a pry bar under the tire and pry up while watching to see if there is any vertical movement at the knuckle where the ball joint is. If there is,,, the ball/socket is shot and the joint needs replaced.
What this does is put all the "sprung weight" of the vehicle on the lower control arm... and the pry bar lifts all of the "un-sprung weight" of the knuckle, upper arm, rotor, hub and caliper.
If the joint is tight but the boot is torn... you can replace the boot. Make sure to pack some extra grease in the boot before install.
What this does is put all the "sprung weight" of the vehicle on the lower control arm... and the pry bar lifts all of the "un-sprung weight" of the knuckle, upper arm, rotor, hub and caliper.
If the joint is tight but the boot is torn... you can replace the boot. Make sure to pack some extra grease in the boot before install.
Been there with the squeaking ball joints, the ball rides on a nylon disk and when the grease dries out they squeak and creak like hell.
Also, it's gonna pop apart real real soon, I put it off for a month on a t-bird, bad mistake.
Drove over a mild bridge joint on the interstate doing 70 MPH and the lower left came apart, wheel went under the car, was damn lucky I was in the right lane as I scooted off to the side of the road.
Just get ones you can grease or drill and put a zerk in.
Also, it's gonna pop apart real real soon, I put it off for a month on a t-bird, bad mistake.
Drove over a mild bridge joint on the interstate doing 70 MPH and the lower left came apart, wheel went under the car, was damn lucky I was in the right lane as I scooted off to the side of the road.
Just get ones you can grease or drill and put a zerk in.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
AFAIK Moog still doesn't use plastic.
Moog Gusher Bearing Design (Tie Rod, Ball Joints) - Bob Is The Oil Guy
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.../Moog_Gusher_Bearing_Design_(Ti
Jun 5, 2016 - Moog Gusher Bearing Design (Tie Rod, Ball Joints) ... The ball usually also has grease grooves and is housed in a metal seat. ... In comparison, most OEM chassis parts use a polished heat treated ball in a teflon seat which ...
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The Moog joints I installed a couple years ago, (that were about 5 years old still in the box), had a plug that could be removed for a grease fitting. Problem is the clearance was so tight that even a right angle fitting might not be able to take a grease gun.
Moog Gusher Bearing Design (Tie Rod, Ball Joints) - Bob Is The Oil Guy
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.../Moog_Gusher_Bearing_Design_(Ti
Jun 5, 2016 - Moog Gusher Bearing Design (Tie Rod, Ball Joints) ... The ball usually also has grease grooves and is housed in a metal seat. ... In comparison, most OEM chassis parts use a polished heat treated ball in a teflon seat which ...
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The Moog joints I installed a couple years ago, (that were about 5 years old still in the box), had a plug that could be removed for a grease fitting. Problem is the clearance was so tight that even a right angle fitting might not be able to take a grease gun.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Junk the Mevotechs and keep the Moog's ! The Moog ball joints are 10 times the ball joint of the Movetechs, (or whatever they are called). The issue is not the ball joint... it's the installer not knowing how to work with aluminum.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
I'm not so sure the ball joint is the issue here. Normally when a ball joint goes bad... you get a shake/shimmy between 65-72 mph. Just because a squeak occurs when the steering wheel is turned, doesn't mean it's a ball joint.
There are other parts than flex and move when the steering wheel is turned. Eventually,,, it will start squeaking under suspension compression and braking. Usually it is a lower control arm bushing and the drivers side is notorious for this. Mostly the rear... but it can happen to the front too. It all depends on age,,, and/or how hard a person drives.
There are other parts than flex and move when the steering wheel is turned. Eventually,,, it will start squeaking under suspension compression and braking. Usually it is a lower control arm bushing and the drivers side is notorious for this. Mostly the rear... but it can happen to the front too. It all depends on age,,, and/or how hard a person drives.
nghtshd88
Well-Known LVC Member
ALL but one of my boots on the entire car are split with zero play. Where do you buy the boots??
The noise I had was exactly the same the as video but it ended up being a failed rear passenger side LCA. What finished it off was some weight in the back corner the day before I guess the rear sagged to low and it finally ripped..
My aligment was off after replacement not sure why as I installed with the rear at ride height like you are suppose to.. which actually makes me wonder if I should rebolt the arms after my new suspension goes on tmrw. If I recall I could barely get a bar on one bolt to tighten it.
The noise I had was exactly the same the as video but it ended up being a failed rear passenger side LCA. What finished it off was some weight in the back corner the day before I guess the rear sagged to low and it finally ripped..
My aligment was off after replacement not sure why as I installed with the rear at ride height like you are suppose to.. which actually makes me wonder if I should rebolt the arms after my new suspension goes on tmrw. If I recall I could barely get a bar on one bolt to tighten it.
I’ve been dealing with the squeak for a year, temperature permitting. Temps dropped below 50 this week and it’s back. I did Moog ball joints 4 years ago. Jacked up left then right side and got no noise, but with both wheels on the ground, rocking the steering wheel back and forth made a horrendous squeak towards right side.
I’m replacing the knuckle with Ford just in case the knuckle got bent. But I’m starting to doubt the noise is a ball joint since I tested with a crowbar and got no play or squeak.
Does the steering rack have a rubber o ring or something that could make a similar sound?
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Not that I'm aware. Check outer tie rod stud to see if it's pivoting in the hole. Could also be the upper rubber spring isolator pivoting / moving inside the top steel plate. Sometimes they only way to figure things out is to get happy with the spray lube, (just not on the brake components). 
Not that I'm aware. Check outer tie rod stud to see if it's pivoting in the hole. Could also be the upper rubber spring isolator pivoting / moving inside the top steel plate. Sometimes they only way to figure things out is to get happy with the spray lube, (just not on the brake components).
Thanks. I planned on making a hole in the lower ball joint boot and spraying lube but didn’t. I replaced the knuckle (with ball joint) and noticed some gritty and random play/catching of the old ball joint so that was a good sign.
Torqued everything to spec and so far it’s been almost two weeks and all is quiet
There is a another thread I recently responded where the owner had Moog wheel hubs that failed after a year or two. Along with the ball joints I put it, it seems their quality is definitely dropping off.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
So did you ever find out if your knuckle/ Spindle was bent? The knuckle can be bent a little bit and the Caliper will still sit in place without rubbing but if the knuckle is bent to much you will know because the Caliper will constantly be rubbing on rotor ....not good
So did you ever find out if your knuckle/ Spindle was bent? The knuckle can be bent a little bit and the Caliper will still sit in place without rubbing but if the knuckle is bent to much you will know because the Caliper will constantly be rubbing on rotor ....not good
I don’t think so. I just think the ball joint lubrication was shot and was grinding on the seat/plate as others mentioned. There is a possibility it may have been slightly bent but unless I compare it to a junkyard pull, I’ll never know.
How exactly would the caliper run on the rotor if it was bent? (And I’m asking this without any condescending tone). I would think the mounting bracket would sit slightly off axis and cause the caliper to pinch the pads against the rotor leading to either brake chatter or severe uneven pad wear, but it should be impossible for the caliper to hit the rotor.
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I’m definitely leaning that way now. I mentioned in the other thread as well that my infant son is in this car now and his life is not worth saving a few bucks.
Spark plugs, oil, gaskets, shocks, even brake pads (I run akebono on the jaguar big brake upgrade) are things I’m ok with non-OEM brands. But things like what hold on my wheels/steering components which hold onto mine and my family’s lives - yeah, I’m sticking with OEM here on out.