best pistons, rods, etc. for my mark viii

devilchild

devilchild

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im looking to eventually supercharge... and debating whether to swap out for an 03 cobra..or rebuild stock block..

if i stay stock.. what pistons , rods, etc. would be best..

and if i fully build the engine for a charger but dont charge it... how much gain would i get in HP and TQ.. from the motor alone??
 
www.corral.net/forums
www.modulardepot.com
www.modularfords.com

You will get a lot more insight at those places.

Stick with the teksid block. In order to maintain flexibility down the road, you could always do a stock style rebuild(keepin the stock compression ratio) but add forged pistons and rods in anticipation of a power adder down the road. You really won't gain a whole lot by doing a rebuild on the bottom end unless you increase the cubes, port the heads, or add cams.
 
If you really want to go big....

Have your block resleeved and get a big-bore rotating assembly. You'll be sportin 5.0L displacement and maintain the durability of the engine. Were you to do a stroker set-up, piston protrusion at BTC will allow an ever so slight wobble of the piston. Over time, this will cause additional wear off the piston, rings and bottom of your bore. If you run a compression ratio between 8.5-9:1, you would be safe to run 5-7lbs of boost on pump gas in a daily driven capacity. Doing this and not running forced induction would net you almost nothing by itself (unless you do the big-bore). The only way you increase HP/TQ any meaningful amount through bottom end is with a higher compression ratio (ie. less dish on the pistons, or flat-top) or displacement increase.

Also, I'm not sure the differences, but it might be beneficial to look at Patriot Performance 4v 99-01 heads as an upgrade. You'll need to verify that you can run them.
 
In fact, if you put in your forged internals with a static compression ratio of 8.5 to 1, but do not then go FI, you will have wimped out the performance relative to the stock compression ratio on factory internals. You have to decide when you build the motor whether you are going FI or not. It is possible to put low boost on higher compression pistons, but it is not the optimal way to go, the conventional wisdom being to go low compression-high boost for best returns.
 
Sorry Eagle 1 I disagree with you. That is not the direction that many are taking with street/strip setups. I am amoungst them with Forged flat tops, and a little better than 10.2 to 1. and I am running close to 14 lbs boost on 93 Octane. It is all in the tune.
 
I would either build it to be a high compression n/a motor or a low compression FI motor. Not a fan of the hybrid stuff.

If you go n/a, concentrate on the intake and heads.

FI, look at the internals and exhaust.
 
Roadboss said:
Sorry Eagle 1 I disagree with you. That is not the direction that many are taking with street/strip setups. I am amoungst them with Forged flat tops, and a little better than 10.2 to 1. and I am running close to 14 lbs boost on 93 Octane. It is all in the tune.
Click to expand...

That is a legit way to go, I do not disagree. But it is not necessarily the preferred way by the majority of motor builders. With the newer motors and higher quality internals you can make it possible to not sacrifice too much down low with the 8.5 to 1 compression pistons before the boost is engaged, and especially with the SC units, by staying with a higher static compression piston and low to moderate boost levels. But I still think you will be limited to moderate ultimate outputs and street/strip is in that category, again same page as what I think you are correctly pointing out. To get to sustained levels above 500rwhp, and probably with fuel mixtures that are closer to 100 octane for the road racing track, the lower static compression/higher boost combination is likely to be the way to go. It is all in what our comrade wants to get from his car, the reliability and lifespan of the powerplant and drivetrain, etc. I ran 10.3 to 1 static compression pistons with a 7lb boost pulley on my Procharger in the G35 for two years on stock internals before converting to TT with a built motor. The practical limit there was that the stock guts really would not safely take more than about 380rwhp. The tune is absolutely critical in all instances. I defer to you on what the best approach to 0-60mph may be. My focus truly has been on the 80-140mph acceleration band, and the issues of hooking up the power etc are different in that environment.

One of the advantages of going turbo was that I could put in a preprogrammed boost controller. That way I can dial down the boost and run on California's pitiful oxygenated 91 octane premium without pinging or detonation, and then when it is time to track it, pour in the 100 unleaded and dial up the boost. That way you can have economy and street practicality, and track power. And the mileage without the parasitic loss from the supercharger belts, or the jet engine whine give away that you have something "special" in there with the sc. There are disadvantages to the turbos of course. Everything is a compromise and choices/decisions have to be made.
Cheers,
Ed
 
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=920878
use your teskid block. Get some C heads ported polished 04 Cobra heads, or send your heads to MMR have them port and polish your heads (The stage 1 is $450, stage 2 is $600 and stage 3 is $800), add Navigator intake cam and 98 cobra exhaust cam unless you wanna spend more for crane or comp cams.
just my 2 cents once again
 
Sal329 said:
http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=920878
use your teskid block. Get some C heads ported polished 04 Cobra heads, or send your heads to MMR have them port and polish your heads (The stage 1 is $450, stage 2 is $600 and stage 3 is $800), add Navigator intake cam and 98 cobra exhaust cam unless you wanna spend more for crane or comp cams.
just my 2 cents once again
Click to expand...

and what will this add if you just did this?
 
crownvicjim said:
and what will this add if you just did this?[/QUOTE

The forged internals will help run a supercharger, NOS or a turbo with no worries of blowin up your pistons or breakin a rod. The cobra crank is a lot stronger then ours. I would think the stock CR built bottom end with stage 2 04 cobra heads, 99/01 Cobra intake and the mentioned cams will net you 350 at the engine maybe more with a good tune. Lets say 350 at the crank to be on the safe side that will net you almost 290 rear wheel hp with a NA stock displacement, stock cr engine. Add a KB and no reason you can not be over 500 rwhp.
I had a 2000 Mustang GT, auto with a Sean Hyland 300 stroker kit (298ci, SHM stage 1 heads, blower cams, 3.73 gears, Ford SVO shorty headers, Magnaflow x pipe, steeda cat back, Lentech AODE strip terminator trans with a 3200 rpm stall. Car dynoed at 302 rwhp and 311 ftlbs, through a 4r70w trans. I lost power with the blower cams and no blower and my CR was 9.01:1.
Click to expand...
 
im aiming for " blow the doors off of your car" HP...

im sick of these yuppy M'Fers in their vettes revving at me and leaving me like im sitting still !!

i would like to just see the look on their faces when they floor it and i dont go anywhere but past them !!

wishful thinking ..haha

plus... i LOOOVVVEEE the sound of a Kenne Bell...!!!
 
devilchild said:
im aiming for " blow the doors off of your car" HP...

im sick of these yuppy M'Fers in their vettes revving at me and leaving me like im sitting still !!

i would like to just see the look on their faces when they floor it and i dont go anywhere but past them !!

wishful thinking ..haha

plus... i LOOOVVVEEE the sound of a Kenne Bell...!!!
Click to expand...

Forged internals, stroker kit would be nice, 04 cobra heads ported polished, crane or comp cams, a KB, full exhaust, gears, tgraction lock (I would go with a unit from a 99 Cobra) and dyno tune.
 
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