chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
the transponder (the ring around the ignition cylinder) is a possibility and somewhat a common ford problem
Black Knight Rebuilt...Another $300 Progress Thread
- Thread starter GMAN
- Start date
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
mespock
Marxists - Socialists
GMAN don't forget to check the Flux Capacitor I've heard that can often be the problem
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Well that didn't help. The starter is interrupted some how. Has anyone experienced this?
97MarkJA
Dedicated LVC Member
This will sound like a silly question but your headlight switch isn't on is it?
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
I found another thread with this problem, but still no solution.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=10198
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/showthread.php?t=10198
97MarkJA
Dedicated LVC Member
You can try reprogramming a master key for the pats system. Heres the how to..
for Ford keys (1996 -early 1998 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) If you want to initiate a new master key....
1. Insert new key into ignition cylinder and turn it to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen minutes.
2. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder OFF and then back to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.
3. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder to OFF and then back ON (RUN) position. The dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.
4. After the security light stops flashing the third time, the new key has been programmed into the vehicles computer and will operate the car. It has replaced ALL the previous electronic key codes and is the ONLY key programmed into the vehicles computer.
If you want to add a key....
1. Insert an existing key into the ignition cylinder.
2. Turn the ignition cylinder to ON (RUN) and back to OFF.
3. Remove the existing key and, within 15 seconds, insert the new key and turn it to ON (RUN).
4. The security light will light up for two seconds to indicate success in programming the key into the vehicle.
5. Don't attempt to start the vehicle with any key for at least 1 minute.
for Ford keys (1996 -early 1998 Ford, Lincoln, Mercury) If you want to initiate a new master key....
1. Insert new key into ignition cylinder and turn it to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen minutes.
2. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder OFF and then back to the ON (RUN) position. The security light on the dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.
3. When the security light stops flashing, you have FIVE minutes to start the next step. Turn the ignition cylinder to OFF and then back ON (RUN) position. The dash will flash for fifteen more minutes.
4. After the security light stops flashing the third time, the new key has been programmed into the vehicles computer and will operate the car. It has replaced ALL the previous electronic key codes and is the ONLY key programmed into the vehicles computer.
If you want to add a key....
1. Insert an existing key into the ignition cylinder.
2. Turn the ignition cylinder to ON (RUN) and back to OFF.
3. Remove the existing key and, within 15 seconds, insert the new key and turn it to ON (RUN).
4. The security light will light up for two seconds to indicate success in programming the key into the vehicle.
5. Don't attempt to start the vehicle with any key for at least 1 minute.
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
OK, thanks, I will try that tomorrow.
97MarkJA
Dedicated LVC Member
Sometimes the pill in the key will go bad, in cold climates its a little more common when a remote start is in the car. Here in MN when its sub zero for an extended period of time the key placed in the bypass module will die (pill goes bad) causing the transponder to pick up a funky signal.. then the fast blinking anti-theft light.
The reason I asked about the light switch is as a safety feature to protect the factory Hids some of the 97-98's won't start with the light switch in the on position.
The reason I asked about the light switch is as a safety feature to protect the factory Hids some of the 97-98's won't start with the light switch in the on position.
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
id toss another transponder ring at it, come on gman you gotta have like 80 of them
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Here's a bit of useful information. When your Gen 2 is in a front end collision, the SCIL may not survive. Mine was toast causing malfunctions with the HID bulbs, and the PATS system. It's a good thing I had spares. Took it to the local Local Lincoln dealer,and $85 later, my keys were programed to the new SCIL.
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
Well, I am at a loss. After I went to the Dealer yesterday with the replacement SCIL, it worked like a charm so I thought. I only drove it from the dealer home, then to the muffler shop to have the factory mufflers put back on. After they were done, I got in the car to drive off the ramps, and the darn thing wouldn't start again. I don't know what else can be causing this. I've changed the ring around the ignition, replaced the PCM, just in case. The the program they did at the dealer not take? Now 24 hrs later, and she still won't start.
87TTOPGT420
Dedicated LVC Member
Did they program 2 keys? Tried both?
Sapperfire
Dedicated LVC Member
Anti-theft light still flashing?
k9t8m
Rollin' Twankies
Take it back to the dealer. Tell them its not working and they may reprogram it and or find the issue hopefully at no cost.
97MarkJA
Dedicated LVC Member
+1 same issue with both keys?
I would also recheck all the grounds seeing as you had the entire dash out.
I would also recheck all the grounds seeing as you had the entire dash out.
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
When I open the door, the anti-theft light flashes rapidly, soon as I stick the key in the ignition and attempt to start, there's no start, the anti theft isn't blinking when the key is in the ACC or start, the odometer has all dashes.
I gave them both keys to program. They supposedly programmed all keys. Now I am starting to wonder. Tomorrow I am going to put the original SCIL back in and see what happens.
I gave them both keys to program. They supposedly programmed all keys. Now I am starting to wonder. Tomorrow I am going to put the original SCIL back in and see what happens.
mark8smine
Active LVC Member
Here's what the interior looks like. Driver's seat is pretty messed up, the seat trim is broken. So if anyone has a seat trim, please help a guy out. :shifty:
A lot of work needs to be done here too. I am planning some type of black/tan combo.
i have that same color interior in my car, and that passenger vent thats broke, is broke in mine too, i cant find one ANYWHERE!
but other than air bags and what not, if you do get rid of that interior, let me know! might have to work something out! lol
97MarkJA
Dedicated LVC Member
I wonder if the factory alarm isn't disarming. Have you tried grounding the factory disarm wire?
Listed below is the vehicle specific wiring diagram for your car alarm, remote starter or keyless entry installation into your 1997 -1998 Lincoln Mark Viii . This information outlines the wires location, color and polarity to help you identify the proper connection spots in the vehicle. Please be sure to test all of your wires with a digital multimeter before making any connections. More information on using a multimeter and testing wires please see our Technical Support Area.
PART COLOR LOCATION
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) and LIGHT GREEN/PURPLE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER RED/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 WHITE/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 GREEN/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BROWN/ORANGE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
POWER LOCK PINK/YELLOW (Positive (+)) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS to REAR of VEHICLE
POWER UNLOCK PINK/LIGHT GREEN (Positive (+)) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS to REAR of VEHICLE
DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/LIGHT BLUE (+) @ UNDER DASH LIGHT
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #R30-H Relay
TRUNK RELEASE ORANGE/LIGHT GREEN (-) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN YELLOW/LIGHT GREEN (-) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
TACH WHITE/PINK or WHITE/RED @ ECM, See NOTE *2
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A
BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DARK GREEN/PURPLE (-) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
ANTI-THEFT FORD'S SECURILOCK ANTI-THEFT TRANSPONDER SYSTEM TRANSPONDER @ IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER
EXTRA INFORMATION NOTE *1 the SCIL (Steering Column/Ignition/Lighting) Module is located in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL to the right of the GLOVEBOX. the MODULE is a SILVER VENTED Steel box with the wires exiting out of the back. NOTE *2 the ECM (Electronic Control Module) is located to the RIGHT of the PARKING BRAKE, wire exit the front of the unit.
Listed below is the vehicle specific wiring diagram for your car alarm, remote starter or keyless entry installation into your 1997 -1998 Lincoln Mark Viii . This information outlines the wires location, color and polarity to help you identify the proper connection spots in the vehicle. Please be sure to test all of your wires with a digital multimeter before making any connections. More information on using a multimeter and testing wires please see our Technical Support Area.
PART COLOR LOCATION
12 VOLT CONSTANT YELLOW (+) and LIGHT GREEN/PURPLE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER RED/BLACK (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER 2 N/A
IGNITION 1 WHITE/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 2 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
IGNITION 3 GREEN/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BROWN/ORANGE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 N/A
KEYSENSE N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) N/A
PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) BROWN (+) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
POWER LOCK PINK/YELLOW (Positive (+)) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS to REAR of VEHICLE
POWER UNLOCK PINK/LIGHT GREEN (Positive (+)) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS to REAR of VEHICLE
DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/LIGHT BLUE (+) @ UNDER DASH LIGHT
DOMELIGHT SUPERVISION USE DOOR TRIGGER, Requires Part #R30-H Relay
TRUNK RELEASE ORANGE/LIGHT GREEN (-) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
SLIDING POWER DOOR N/A
HORN YELLOW/LIGHT GREEN (-) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
TACH WHITE/PINK or WHITE/RED @ ECM, See NOTE *2
WAIT TO START LIGHT N/A
BRAKE LIGHT GREEN (+) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
FACTORY ALARM DISARM DARK GREEN/PURPLE (-) @ SCIL Module, See NOTE *1
ANTI-THEFT FORD'S SECURILOCK ANTI-THEFT TRANSPONDER SYSTEM TRANSPONDER @ IGNITION SWITCH TUMBLER
EXTRA INFORMATION NOTE *1 the SCIL (Steering Column/Ignition/Lighting) Module is located in the PASSENGER KICK PANEL to the right of the GLOVEBOX. the MODULE is a SILVER VENTED Steel box with the wires exiting out of the back. NOTE *2 the ECM (Electronic Control Module) is located to the RIGHT of the PARKING BRAKE, wire exit the front of the unit.
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
i have that same color interior in my car, and that passenger vent thats broke, is broke in mine too, i cant find one ANYWHERE!
The interior skins is coming wit me to be uses as a template for new leather seats to be made. If anybody want new leather for their GEN2 let me know. I can have more than one set made. PM me for a price.
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
I've been looking all over the net to figure out a solution to my no start problem. As of now, I still haven't started yet? I found this on a Mustang forum. It looks like I'm going to have to get a tune to disable PATS. I've heard conflicting stories. Is PATS tied to to the PCM? Can it be disabled?
I solved the problem. I'll write out the steps I took in the event this might benefit another member in the future with a similar problem.
Contacted American Muscle, which in turn contacted SCT. I requested to have PATS disabled in my two custom tune files. SCT tech emailed me two updated tunes with PATS disabled along with instructions on how to upload an email tune file into SCT XCal2 using a free to download software called LiveLoad Ford 2.2.12.1 from sctflash.com The updated tune files were free of charge as part of AM's lifetime tune policy.
My car would not start prior to this process due to PATS P1260. And this is probably due to either a bad transponder in both keys, bad transceiver ring in ignitions switch, or a bad diode in PCM. Or maybe another problem as well. Who knows. And I don't care as I'm not going to pay to have this crap diagnosed and fixed at the dealership. I've got better things to spend my money on right now.
The fix:
1. Disconnect battery for 1 hour.
2. Pump the brakes to bleed off any excess voltage in the system.
3. Reconnect battery
4. Plug in tuner to OBDII port (with key off) and begin program process of uploading new PATS disabled tune file, following the prompts. Complete that process.
5. The car fires right up. Theft light does continue to blink intermittently, but not in a fast pattern like it did prior.
6. Run DTC scan and the P1260 is gone, but you do get a P1000 readiness code.
7. Follow the instructions on going through the Ford Drive Cycle process to address this code. http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html
8. Done
__________________
I solved the problem. I'll write out the steps I took in the event this might benefit another member in the future with a similar problem.
Contacted American Muscle, which in turn contacted SCT. I requested to have PATS disabled in my two custom tune files. SCT tech emailed me two updated tunes with PATS disabled along with instructions on how to upload an email tune file into SCT XCal2 using a free to download software called LiveLoad Ford 2.2.12.1 from sctflash.com The updated tune files were free of charge as part of AM's lifetime tune policy.
My car would not start prior to this process due to PATS P1260. And this is probably due to either a bad transponder in both keys, bad transceiver ring in ignitions switch, or a bad diode in PCM. Or maybe another problem as well. Who knows. And I don't care as I'm not going to pay to have this crap diagnosed and fixed at the dealership. I've got better things to spend my money on right now.
The fix:
1. Disconnect battery for 1 hour.
2. Pump the brakes to bleed off any excess voltage in the system.
3. Reconnect battery
4. Plug in tuner to OBDII port (with key off) and begin program process of uploading new PATS disabled tune file, following the prompts. Complete that process.
5. The car fires right up. Theft light does continue to blink intermittently, but not in a fast pattern like it did prior.
6. Run DTC scan and the P1260 is gone, but you do get a P1000 readiness code.
7. Follow the instructions on going through the Ford Drive Cycle process to address this code. http://www.obdii.com/drivecycleford.html
8. Done
__________________
GMAN
Dedicated LVC Member
I believe I've figured out the reason people are getting random no starts. While doing the dash swaps, I noticed that the two of main power harnesses (10mm bolt that holds the connector together) had some how backed out. In my case it was the main harness at the firewall. Once I made sure it was good and tight, I haven't had another problem.