Bob's LS Story
- Thread starter bobsquatch
- Start date
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
The thing is when the miss is gone so is the rich code. Also this seems to be directly linked to outside air temp. Checked codes this evening. No change and I do not clear them. Actually there is a change. Duplicate codes were pending same as recorded. Now none pending only recorded.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Still plan on testing positive coil lead while engine is running. No time today.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Not since I changed them all but #1 was the only one fouled when I did which leads me to believe it will be again. It also makes me believe the pcm when it reports a #1 miss.
Assuming all my sensors are working... How does the pcm determine a rich condition? I am wondering if the miss is causing the rich condition or is the rich condition causing the miss? If it is the latter then it's the injector over fueling or poorly fueling. That being said the injector is either malfunctioning or is being given bad or corrupted signal. Correct?
Assuming all my sensors are working... How does the pcm determine a rich condition? I am wondering if the miss is causing the rich condition or is the rich condition causing the miss? If it is the latter then it's the injector over fueling or poorly fueling. That being said the injector is either malfunctioning or is being given bad or corrupted signal. Correct?
Might be..............the crazy controls of PCMs today defy description. I just started my V8 out there and it went to 1400 rpm immediately.I thought about how the fuel mixture was probably pretty rich at that moment,but then the engine dropped to 900 rpms and I backed out of the driveway.
I was thinking I could feel a little missing going on myself,but it didn't last but a minute or so. don-ohio
^)
I was thinking I could feel a little missing going on myself,but it didn't last but a minute or so. don-ohio
^)bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
I have 3-30 second live data recordings I just need to learn to decipher it all.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Today's driving report. It was much warmer this morning 56 degrees. Had a much less prominent but noticeable miss on start up that was nearly gone by my arrival at work 13 min and 6 miles away. When I started up 8 hours later and around 66 degrees, no miss and the engine light went out. I will get any codes when I go out to test the + lead on the #1 coil. Hey Joe. Which one is positive?
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
OK Joe, I finally got around to testing the #1 coil positive lead when missing. I discovered what you were probably speculating about. When it is missing, there is a voltage drop from roughly 14.25V to 8, 6, 2 and 0.**. I think you were expecting that. What are your thoughts? I am going to go warm up the car until the miss is gone and retest.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
One more thing. Since I broke the wire loom near the #1 injector and the clip on it's pigtail connector I have had (only when its missing) an occasional whole system (by the feel of it) stumble. Feels like all the cylinders are partially erratically failing when i suddenly accelerate to kill the miss. It does not last more than a second or so and not when warm. Breaking the loom and clip may be irrelevant but I wanted to include all information.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Did you put a ty-wrap around the injector body and between the two wires on the connector? That should be enough to hold it in reliably.
I didn't expect it to hit zero, but I way thinking there might be a problem there. Measure the positive terminal on the #2 coil under the same circumstances. If it is normal (should be, no misfires from #2), then you need to replace the positive wire between #2 and #1, The positive wire daisy chains between the coils on each bank.
I didn't expect it to hit zero, but I way thinking there might be a problem there. Measure the positive terminal on the #2 coil under the same circumstances. If it is normal (should be, no misfires from #2), then you need to replace the positive wire between #2 and #1, The positive wire daisy chains between the coils on each bank.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Thank you Joe. I will look into that. I should be finishing up my job by mid week and get laid off. I will have more time to work on it. I have not zip tied my broken connectors yet but I will soon. So if #2 coil lead is good and I replace #1 lead and there is no change would that justify a pcm check? Or are there still likely culprits out there?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
If you truly and correctly measured the #1 coil voltage, then you have a harness problem on some sort. The PCM does not control that voltage, other than with one relay that can turn all the coils off, not just one of them.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Well it appears all of my passenger side coils suffer from this voltage drop. It is still possible I am not making a perfect solid connection. I have not checked the drivers side. It seems strange I only get the cylinder #1 miss code and the #1 plug is the only one that was fouled. I was going to add a jumper lead between coils #1/#2 positive leads as a redundant electrical pathway but paused when I found voltage drops at #2, #3, and #4 coil leads. The test method I used was pushing a pin into the coil pigtail positive lead between the wire insulation and the connector water proof seal into the connector from the lead side, leaving the connector attached to the coil. I used the strut mounting hardware on the fender well for a ground.
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Hi folks. sorry for the delay but life's other distractions have crept in. Ok so my last issue was voltage drop on my #1 coil. I do not think this is the issue. Today I measured when cold and still missing and voltage was good. As a tell all I put a pin in the #2 coil harness and jumped it to the #1 harness. Still missing and voltage remains the same at both coils so I am fairly certain that is not it. Car runs like a top except when cold and no check engine light unless I let it miss at idle in gear for to long. I put it in neutral at lights or add a tiny bit of throttle in gear (briefly) and it cleans up.
When I got my 03 LS V8,Bob, I had a miss intermittently about a thousand miles after I bought it, upon start-up,mostly though when warm. The car hadn't been run a lot before I bought it.The guy said the coils and plugs had been replaced.
Two bottles of STP fuel system cleaner later, the miss was gone and has never returned. I only run Marathon gas whenever possible,and it has the fuel system cleaner in it, but who knows what they had been running?
Anyway,sometimes it's just a little dirt where it shouldn't be. don-oho^)
Two bottles of STP fuel system cleaner later, the miss was gone and has never returned. I only run Marathon gas whenever possible,and it has the fuel system cleaner in it, but who knows what they had been running?
Anyway,sometimes it's just a little dirt where it shouldn't be. don-oho
^)bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Well Don, I already ran a concentrated dose of Seafoam through it but I have another can I will add when I fuel up tomorrow. Funny thing is I left the pins in the harness connectors and this morning It did not miss at all. I will check again tomorrow. I am making a parts list for this week and I will include a Motorcraft injector. Speaking of parts is there a consensus on a preferred brand/part# valve cover gasket? Do we prefer Motorcraft fuel injectors or something else? I have about 1,200 miles on this car so far.
If you can afford it,Bob,the consensus is use Motorcraft/Ford parts. On the SeaFoam.....I like it for motor oil additive right before an oil change, but I'll stick with fuel system cleaner like STP or equiv. in about a half tank of gas to do the cleaning. I used the STP ,in a half tank of gas each time. don-ohio ^)
^)bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Thanks Don. Rock Auto didn't have Motorcraft valve cover gaskets so I will look elsewhere.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
AFAIK, there's nothing wrong with Fel-Pro valve cover gaskets. Note that they do not come with the VCT seals. (neither do the Motorcraft ones)
bobsquatch
Active LVC Member
Thanks everyone. Well I need to go to the dealer to program a new set of keys, find out the code for the key-less entry door pad, give them a crack at cause of my engine miss and to do a fluid exchange for the transmission. I am trying to avoid the dealer as much as possible but since I am forced to go there I want to get the most bang for my buck. Can you guys think of anything else I should have done while I am there? The only other issue I have with the car is the a/c for which I plan to replace the leaking compressor, dryer and orings. I will then take to a shop for flushing, evacuating and charging. What else can they do for me with their factory diagnostic equipment that I can't do anywhere else, or shouldn't do anywhere else? Also, I am in San Diego. I plan on using either Witt Lincoln or Kearney Pearson Ford. Both are nearby but I have never been to Witt. I am willing to travel further if I have reason to so any local knowledge would be appreciated.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You can program remotes yourself on gen II.
As long as you have two working keys, you can also program more keys yourself (true for both gens). Is it that you only have one working key now?
Getting the door keypad code will require the dealer.