Brakes

SurfjaxLS

SurfjaxLS

Dedicated LVC Member
Joined
Dec 18, 2004
Messages
785
Reaction score
0
Location
Austin
How hard is it to install new brake pads? I'm pretty sure mine are shot because the car vibrates kinda rough when on the brakes hard, and pulls a little.
 
SurfjaxLS said:
How hard is it to install new brake pads? I'm pretty sure mine are shot because the car vibrates kinda rough when on the brakes hard, and pulls a little.
Click to expand...

You need to turn your rotors if your getting vibration and pull from your brakes. From what i understand the brakes are like any other brakes except instead of pushing the pistons back in you need to buy a $10 tool to turn them in.
 
Yep - it's not too hard - but like any four wheel disc car - the integrated parking brake uses the rear pistons - so you have to 'spin' the piston into the caliper to give more room for the wider 'new' pads. The first time they will be pretty stiff.
 
While we're on the subject of brakes and brake pads I have a question. Have any of you had any success using pads that produce any less dust than the OE ones. I swear I wash my car and the very next day the wheels look like :q I would replace the pads now even though I don't need to if I could get some pads that were less "dusty" And there's no way I'm using those McCleen shields or whatever they're called. Oh well just curious.
 
I'm currently running the Porterfield R4-S Pads. They are virtually dustless. However, it is a metallic street racing pad that requires heat to make it have friction. It takes about 500 degrees for these pads to perform at their optimal range. I've had these on for over a year and they are fantastic. You can buy them directly from Porterfield.

However, I'm switching my entire brake system over to the Stoptech Big Brake system this spring but I would still recommend the Porterfield pads.
 
cdixon said:
While we're on the subject of brakes and brake pads I have a question. Have any of you had any success using pads that produce any less dust than the OE ones. I swear I wash my car and the very next day the wheels look like :q I would replace the pads now even though I don't need to if I could get some pads that were less "dusty" And there's no way I'm using those McCleen shields or whatever they're called. Oh well just curious.
Click to expand...


:gr_hail: PorterField

I will be installing a 3rd set of R4S soon. Confident and clean... Porterfield
 
Thanks ya'll. As long as I've been around I've never heard of the company Porterfield. Are they that pricey compared to other brands and will the high heat requirements still work for my strictly street driving?
 
cdixon said:
Thanks ya'll. As long as I've been around I've never heard of the company Porterfield. Are they that pricey compared to other brands and will the high heat requirements still work for my strictly street driving?
Click to expand...
How much and do any of the national part stores carry them?
 
hit the hyper link In my prev post... it has been a while and I do not recall what I paid. They are premium brake pads so expect some sticker shock. I think you get a discount if you are an llsoc member at least I did back in the day when I was a member there. I don't think they distribute to retailers but you can check there website.
 
I have used the OEM, EBC and porterfield on my LS6 Sport and have yet to find a cleaner pad and in my unscientific opinion non have provided more stopping power. I drive hwy most of the time but I do have my city commute time. I have had to do some serious last second braking and even on a well worn set of porterfiled brakes I stopped with the greatest of ease.
 
I checked the site but didn't see anything for a LS and their database was down. Prices ranged from 65 to over 120 (for a pair I guess) and it seemed like you had to order them.
 
MikeB said:
I checked the site but didn't see anything for a LS and their database was down. Prices ranged from 65 to over 120 (for a pair I guess) and it seemed like you had to order them.
Click to expand...

Call them. I had to call them when I ordered the pads for the LS. I can't remember how much since it's been over a year but I thought it was around $70/set.
 
I've always used the Porterfield R4S pads on my Mustangs. They are great!
 
Porterfield R4-S Pads
Front part#805. $89.95
Rear part#399. $69.95
Their rotors are f*ckin expensive!
Cross Drilled
Fronts = $110.88 each rotor.
Rear = $95.68 each rotor.
If you don't want drilled rotors minus $30 bucks a rotor.
 
whatsupadrian said:
instead of pushing the pistons back in you need to buy a $10 tool to turn them in.
Click to expand...

Here's the tool I purchased....


pistontoolrear.jpg
 
whatsupadrian said:
Cross Drilled
Fronts = $110.88 each rotor.
Rear = $95.68 each rotor.
If you don't want drilled rotors minus $30 bucks a rotor.
Click to expand...

That's cheap compared to StopTech. Theirs run $249 EACH!
 
aren't the poterfiled rotors brembo's rebadged for resell. IIRC that as the inside iggy back in the day could have changed by now.
 
Why would you want cross-drilled rotors???!!! Although I run slotted Brembo rotors on my race car, I would never use cross-drilled rotors. Nor do any of the people I race against. The "bling-bling" effect is all they are good for. Tire Rack has great prices on Brembo rotors on their website.
 
99 KOBRA said:
Why would you want cross-drilled rotors???!!! Although I run slotted Brembo rotors on my race car, I would never use cross-drilled rotors. Nor do any of the people I race against. The "bling-bling" effect is all they are good for. Tire Rack has great prices on Brembo rotors on their website.
Click to expand...

Cross-Drilled & slotted rotors provide an easy escape route for rainwater and any gas build-up that might occur under extreme braking, In Portland Oregon it rains big time and the rotors on my old WRX were cross drilled, slotted and oversized, I noticed a big difference in breaking in the rain.

Racing Pads on the other hand tend to wear the rotor down much faster at cool operating temps, sure they are cleaner but you will be turning your rotors more often.
 
SurfjaxLS said:
How hard is it to install new brake pads? I'm pretty sure mine are shot because the car vibrates kinda rough when on the brakes hard, and pulls a little.
Click to expand...

Check the rotors are clean, grease and oil will cause grabbing. If they have grease or oil on them find out where it's coming from!

Worn seals in the calipers can cause vibration too. Pressure to the pistons can leak past worn seals causing them to back off, tighten, back off, etc., as the pressure builds and eases.
 
Styles said:
Cross-Drilled & slotted rotors provide an easy escape route for rainwater and any gas build-up that might occur under extreme braking, In Portland Oregon it rains big time and the rotors on my old WRX were cross drilled, slotted and oversized, I noticed a big difference in breaking in the rain.

Racing Pads on the other hand tend to wear the rotor down much faster at cool operating temps, sure they are cleaner but you will be turning your rotors more often.
Click to expand...

You don't turn rotors on a race car, you replace them. My point is that cross-drilled rotors do not improve braking performance, they just increase the possibility of warping your rotors.
 
99 KOBRA said:
You don't turn rotors on a race car, you replace them. My point is that cross-drilled rotors do not improve braking performance, they just increase the possibility of warping your rotors.
Click to expand...
Whever they look nice, Anyone with a sporty aftermarket rim might want them, like me :)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 96 (members: 0, guests: 96)
Back
Top