car audio help

PRICE717 said:
hahahahahahaa should i wait till gas goes up another 2$ or now??????? no seriously its almost like a bucking and i realize this is car audio help however with almost 6,000 posts under ur fan belt and me being completly green i could use the advice before i drop my rear end on the road....i have two lil ones and need a safe car.......its almost like a bucking from rear
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SWAG (Silly Wild Ass Guess) - Driveshaft center bearing.
 
if you have a problem with the rear end bad enough to cause any "bucking", taking it somewhere to get looked at probably pretty should be a high priority. failure of high speed rotating parts can be pretty bad pretty quick at 60 mph.
 
it happens sporatically for 5 seconds or so under load and not under load not really serious feeling i have had people tell me it happens to them and its nothing serious,def rear end how salty and hard to do is the center bearing
 
PRICE717 said:
it happens sporatically for 5 seconds or so under load and not under load not really serious feeling i have had people tell me it happens to them and its nothing serious,def rear end how salty and hard to do is the center bearing
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I wouldn't consider it easy. Just look under the car and see if you can even find it hidden over the exhaust.

If there's any chance at all that this is a misfire instead, take care of the sparkplugs and coils first.
 
ima get to it as soon as it dries up round here plugs right away might have to wait a week or two for the coils they are a lil pricey as i have learned lol
 
there are three plugs, big square (steering wheel controls and CD player input), little square (factory subs and center preouts), and the rectangle (the main harness), he is talking about the rectangle shaped plug.

if you still dont know which one it is, unplug them one at a time with the radio turned on, when you unplug the harness that shuts the radio off, you,ve found the right one.
 
It's the one on the left in this picture...

0224120507.jpg
 
So, if I want to add a sub and an amp (I have these from my old car), how do I hook it up using the factory wires (assuming the harness is in the trunk)?
 
Did you just post a question in the thread that has the answer right in it?

If it is not painfully obvious from reading this thread, than you should pay someone to do this for you.
 
pektel said:
Did you just post a question in the thread that has the answer right in it?

If it is not painfully obvious from reading this thread, than you should pay someone to do this for you.
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more importantly, do you also have a rumble comin from rear end 40-60 mph...
 
pektel you didn't read my question. I want to splice the harness in the trunk. The wires listed are for the speaker output from the head unit.
 
I will clarify. I have the alpine system, without subs. I cannot use a line output converter as there are no speakers to use. So to make it easy I want to use the factory wire harness to the trunk mounted subs (assuming I can find it) and add a sub and an amp. There is one harness in the trunk that isn't connected to anything but it has 6 wires in about a 12 wire plug. From this thread I get the wires are line level so which are line level and is there a trigger to turn on the sub amp? If there is a trigger, what colour is the wire and what voltage?
 
My remote (assuming what you're calling the trigger) is wired to a wire jumping a relay and a diode in the trunk seen below. The wiring is a bloody mess but you may be able to make it out in the pictures. Others will know for sure on what's going on but this is how mine's currently set up. Some LOC's have a remote and you could still use these but the signal would be coming from the door speakers if IRC.

IMAG0315.jpg


IMAG0307.jpg
 
My apologies. The question does make sense now.

It would be rather easy to pull the head unit and tap in there. I don't know the limitations (if there are any) on length of wire for the LOC, but it's very easy to run the wire from the HU, under the center console and under the rear seat to the trunk. It's where my RCA's are running. Took all of 5 minutes.

In fact, you could probably mount the LOC under the center console, and run RCA's from there.
 
SteveSC said:
pektel you didn't read my question. I want to splice the harness in the trunk. The wires listed are for the speaker output from the head unit.
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LOL smart move rephrasing that!

+1 on the LOC being placed under the middle console... then RCA's through the back seat
 
If the trunk harness is line level already, I think it would be much easier to use that and hook up the sub amp. The battery is already in the trunk and i have the room on the spare tire to put the amp. All I would need is to figure out a trigger for the amp and install would take about 10 minutes. Why would I run line level all the way to the trunk if it is already there?

After searching the interent, the answer I have found for the harness in the trunk is this: yellow/red, switched hot, red, constant power, white/red, low level left, grey/red, low level right.

So from this I would splice both the low levels and use the switched hot as the trigger. I will try this today and let you know. If anyone knows this won't work, please chime in.
 
are you wanting to turn on and off the amp or send a signal "sound" to the amp?
 
SteveSC said:
So from this I would splice both the low levels and use the switched hot as the trigger. I will try this today and let you know. If anyone knows this won't work, please chime in.
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the OEM amp turn on wire is not 12v like most amps need to see.
 
So the switched hot in the trunk is not 12 volts, I used my multi meter and got 6.98 volts. Anyone have any idea if 7 volts is enough to trigger the amp?
 
SteveSC said:
So the switched hot in the trunk is not 12 volts, I used my multi meter and got 6.98 volts. Anyone have any idea if 7 volts is enough to trigger the amp?
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I believe most are 12, optimal being 14. You want the right voltage going to it or something is going to burn up trying to power whatever it is you're powering.

What stuff are you installing anyway?
 
I have a few sub amps but I was aiming for a MTX 6500d to drive a sub or two. I also have a 4/3/2 bridgeable amp but I think I'll just put one amp in for fear of killing the alternator.
 
After reading my owners manual again, I discovered the MTX 6500d has "smart turn on". When you feed speaker level inputs to it, it turns itself on. So I will just run some speaker cables to the back of the car and be done.
 
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