Changed Timing Chain Tensioner But Keep Hearing The Same Noise

[gramurLS]

Ok so a few weeks back I noticed a rattling sound coming from my 2001 Lincoln LS V8 (passenger side). I searched these fourms and found out it might be a cracked tensioner. I opened the vavle cover, order a new tensioner from Christopher's Car parts. Removed old tensioner which indeed was cracked. Installed new metal tensioner, bolted everything back up. I then proceeded to start the engine and the same noise still exist at idle. I don't know where to go from here.

Any ideas?

 

[LS4me]

Ok so a few weeks back I noticed a rattling sound coming from my 2001 Lincoln LS V8 (passenger side). I searched these fourms and found out it might be a cracked tensioner. I opened the vavle cover, order a new tensioner from Christopher's Car parts. Removed old tensioner which indeed was cracked. Installed new metal tensioner, bolted everything back up. I then proceeded to start the engine and the same noise still exist at idle. I don't know where to go from here.

Any ideas?

Driver's side???????............

 

[gramurLS]

The sound is still coming from the same passenger side. No rattle is heard on the driver side. I should note that during the process of removing the valve cover, the first time, I broke what I think is the PCV feed. May this have had an effect on the end results?

 

[gramurLS]

After looking into the issue further. I noticed that the chain is loose at some point and tight at others, whenever I rotate the engine. How would I go about correcting this to make sure the chain is completely tight? My chain has the same slack as seen in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=965B7jhO-xA

Thanks.

 

[gramurLS]

*Double post*

 

[oddball]

Did you pull out the retaining pin when you installed the tensioner? Something went wrong in the install.

 

[gramurLS]

Yes I did remove the retaining pin when I installed the new tensioner. During my installation process I removed the exhaust sprocket bolt as well as the sprocket, while holding the chain onto the sprocket, to the best of my ability. I did this so I had room to replace the tensioner (with the assistance of a friend). I'll also like to add that I did not use any speciality tools throughout the installation process. I bolted everything back in place and the end result my chain has some slack in it.

As the engine rotates the slack is gone. But if I keep rotating the engine the slack in the chain appears again. This process continues as the engine keeps rotating. I figured this is what's causing the noise under the hood.

Is there any hope in sight? Thanks

 

[gramurLS]

*Double post. Not sure why this keeps happening.*

 

[SlickLS]

The sound is still coming from the same passenger side. No rattle is heard on the driver side. I should note that during the process of removing the valve cover, the first time, I broke what I think is the PCV feed. May this have had an effect on the end results?

Sounds to me like a primary tensioner might have a crack in it causing slack. I had a bad rattling noise that I could have sworn was a bad secondary tensioner, but it ended up being a primary tensioner failure. Replaced all 4 tensioners, guides/levers, and chains with the metal ones.

 

[gramurLS]

Sounds to me like a primary tensioner might have a crack in it causing slack. I had a bad rattling noise that I could have sworn was a bad secondary tensioner, but it ended up being a primary tensioner failure. Replaced all 4 tensioners, guides/levers, and chains with the metal ones.

That's what I'm afraid of. I've been tinkering with the slack on the chain for some time. I do notice that as the engine rotates the noise comes and goes. I suspected that was due to one side being tight and the other loose.

Any thoughts?

 

[chris2523]

stretched timing chains.
replaced the tensioners in a 00 V8 after one side jumped.
rattling noise persisted.
replaced the secondary timing chains, quiet.

you probably need new secondary timing chains. Christophers has them.

 

[AutumnRed]

Those tensioners operate from oil pressure. When not running, the tensioner retracts I believe. When engine oil pressure is present, the tensioner has more force to push on the chain. From what I have read, opinions vary but the best practice in replacing these is to buy a chain tensioner kit with the removable master link and to use a rented cam position holder tool. The secondary tensioner(s) are fitted with plastic coating on the rub area and when they fail, the plastic pieces drop down to the front engine cover Primary chain area and create more troubles with the primary chains and tensioners. If you catch the secondary chains first, usually, the primary chain sets will last. There's a guy on eBay who sells all the kits and rents the tool.