So I have an '06 ls that threw a p0401 and p0106 CEL code. Looked up the p0106 code on here and it told me it was the plastic orange vacuum lines coming from the egr valve. Replaced the lines with new rubber line and put everything back the way it was. Went to start up the car and to started fine. Turned it off and tried to start it again, and it wouldn't start at all. Its like its not getting gas. Anyone have any ideas what might be going on? Had the car for 3 years and it's never done this.
changed vacuum lines now car wont start?
- Thread starter zero233
- Start date
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You replaced the factory line assembly with a new factory line assembly, or did you make your own? If the latter, did you branch it at the correct places and did you reconnect correctly to the fuel pressure sensor?
Do you hear the fuel pump prime?
Did you try clear flood mode (hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor while trying to start the engine)?
Do you have everything else correctly reconnected? (Unplug the electrical connection at the MAF and try starting it. If it starts, you probably don't have all the intake stuff on right.)
Do you hear the fuel pump prime?
Did you try clear flood mode (hold the gas pedal all the way to the floor while trying to start the engine)?
Do you have everything else correctly reconnected? (Unplug the electrical connection at the MAF and try starting it. If it starts, you probably don't have all the intake stuff on right.)
Hey sorry for the late reply. Yes I did make my own lines. went to Napa and got some made of rubber that we're the same size as the factory lines. I didn't mess with it anymore and ended up I having it towed to my mechanic. He said when he got it it started right up. kept it for a day and said there was nothing wrong and all my lines were correct. I forgot to mention that when i tried to crank it and it wouldnt start for me i noticed the red anti-theft light blinking constantly while cranking. Told him about it and He said he thinks I some how may have tripped my anti-theft and that's what kept it from cranking??? Not sure if that was the case but it's fine now.
stumpy
Active LVC Member
posted it before, but you didn't search did you?
http://juchems.com/ServiceManuals/vi...No Start.pdf
Ok here goes. I have a 2004 Lincoln LS8. I've changed coils, plugs, and VC Gaskets about 2 months ago. Car ran great, for about 3 weeks. When cold the car runs like there are no problems, in fact it still behaves this way. Once vehicle is up to operating temperature, all known hell breaks loose. Car will act like its pulling a 20'ft boat, decelerate between shifts and shift hard like a racecar. Tonight I began checking my Injector connections by wiggling the elec connectors loose and back tight again on the injectors. Made it to cylinder 7, and when I reconnected the connector after about 2 seconds the car died. Car will not start. It cranks and cranks. Flood starting has been unsuccessful. I feel I may have accidentally destroyed my life... What say you?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Check engine light on or off? Any OBDII codes? Have you tried starting it with the MAF unplugged? Brand of coils used? Did you verify/set the plug gaps to 1.0mm?
Any chance you blew the fuel injectors fuse?
Any chance you blew the fuel injectors fuse?
**Update**
Verified that COP's are sending spark to plugs during cranking. I can hear the fuel pump. I have reset pump (wasn't needed). Checked my fuses. I am very open to the notion of my fuel pump finally going out. However, I am perplexed as to reason why it decided to finally die during the test. I was an auto transmission builder for years so I can understand you if you wish to be technical (to some degree). Thanks again for any help guys. Last thing. I noticed the fuel rail is only getting pressure when engine is cranking. No pressure in rails when key is in ON position and engine off.
Verified that COP's are sending spark to plugs during cranking. I can hear the fuel pump. I have reset pump (wasn't needed). Checked my fuses. I am very open to the notion of my fuel pump finally going out. However, I am perplexed as to reason why it decided to finally die during the test. I was an auto transmission builder for years so I can understand you if you wish to be technical (to some degree). Thanks again for any help guys. Last thing. I noticed the fuel rail is only getting pressure when engine is cranking. No pressure in rails when key is in ON position and engine off.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Interesting. When you turn the key to run, the pump should operate for a second or two and pressurize the rail. After that, the rail should stay pressurized for a little while. Needless to say, if you bleed the pressure off, it will not repressurize until you turn the key to start or you cycle it off and back to run.
What is the pressure when you do have some and measure it?
Do you smell gasoline when trying to start it, or soon after?
Have you tried starting fluid to see if it will start and run for a second?
Have you charged the battery and verified that it is still staying above 9V while you are trying to start the car?
Has the fuel filter been changed in the last 30K miles?
Please note that there are two fuel pumps. Failure of the secondary (jet) pump can also cause loss of fuel flow/pressure.
How about using a noid light to verify that the fuel injectors are being pulsed?
What is the pressure when you do have some and measure it?
Do you smell gasoline when trying to start it, or soon after?
Have you tried starting fluid to see if it will start and run for a second?
Have you charged the battery and verified that it is still staying above 9V while you are trying to start the car?
Has the fuel filter been changed in the last 30K miles?
Please note that there are two fuel pumps. Failure of the secondary (jet) pump can also cause loss of fuel flow/pressure.
How about using a noid light to verify that the fuel injectors are being pulsed?
stumpy
Active LVC Member
enjoying the LS?
this is what it does best (break)
air/spark/fuel
hasn't changed in 50 years.
check the intake manifold, check the MAF, check the TB, check them again when cranking it
check the exhaust maniforld for a clog (happens)
check all coils with a noid light
check all plugs with a spark light
check the schrader valve
verify the PCM sees what you read with an ODBII gizmo
this is what it does best (break)
air/spark/fuel
hasn't changed in 50 years.
check the intake manifold, check the MAF, check the TB, check them again when cranking it
check the exhaust maniforld for a clog (happens)
check all coils with a noid light
check all plugs with a spark light
check the schrader valve
verify the PCM sees what you read with an ODBII gizmo
So I'm supposed to search for that one specific link?
stumpy
Active LVC Member
http://juchems.com/ServiceManuals/viewfilef452.pdf?dir=12&viewfile=No Start.pdf
"lincoln+ls"+"fuel+pressure"+site:lincolnvscadillac.com
it wasn't the first one this time, but it was in the top 10/
I don't really see the point in you telling me to search for something that has been fixed 2 days ago.... did you read my second post??
stumpy
Active LVC Member
Great that your LS is working! No need to get cranky 
My first post was a bad link. There are 2 of you with no start issue here.
My first post was a bad link. There are 2 of you with no start issue here.
**FIXED** After replacing the coils and plugs and having the catalytic converters replaced, I found the problem. A weak screw on the rear of the bank 2 fuel rail. Had to lay on the motor while my friend stalled the torque converter. I found that under pressure (acceleration), fuel was was basically spewing from the injector/intake oring. At first I assumed it was just worn orings. After replacing the orings and buttoning up the top side of the motor I still had the smell of fuel during acceleration however it was shifting better. I found that this screw was stretched accidentally due to the location of the leak after the repair. The leak was now coming from the front side of the bank one fuel rail. (WTF!?!?!) I figured what the hell. It would be the cheapest thing I could replace at this point ($3.40 for 2 screws). Voila!! Problem solved. Power restored, stench eradicated, shifting telemetry no longer shoddy, and lastly fuel economy averaged 27.8 MPG over the course of 110 miles of HWY driving with an average speed of 76MPH!
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
You guys and your crazy fuel economy... I'm happy if I can just get the tens digit to be a 2. My highway mileage tends to be ~22. I'll have to try cruise control sometime and not gun it
Honestly. Im only assuming fuel economy based on the factory dash readout. Ive read that it should be around 22 to 24. Perhaps I will do a bit of math next time at the pump. And yes, I agree. It is hard to keep your foot out of the skinny pedal. The high RPM power surge of the V8 is simply put, invigoratingly pleasing. Its a highway monster for sure. But very capable of mediocre fuel economy (by today's standards).