Changing Degas Bottle

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LJS30

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Hey guys I am thinking of changing my Degas bottle this weekend. I have seen the other instructional threads on here and they are excellent. However in terms of draining the system what does that involve? I have replaced coolant reservoirs before on other vehicles without draining the system. However I believe draining the whole system was mentioned one time in regards to the degas bottle. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 
There's a little screw sorta thing on the bottom of the radiator, most of the coolant can be let out of there, at least enough to drain the degas bottle.
 
So unlike many cars where the overflow can just be removed, replaced, and re-filled, this thing needs the system drained?
 
I guess you could just unhook the hoses connecting the bottle, but it's probably going to be a lot messier that way.
 
LJS30 said:
So unlike many cars where the overflow can just be removed, replaced, and re-filled, this thing needs the system drained?
Click to expand...

And bled CORRECTLY!!!!

I would just remove the old reservoir, add coolant and bleed PROPERLY.
 
Just drain it at the thermostat inlet line if you want to. Line going from degas bottle to thermostat housing. Check to see if you can open your fill neck on the Thermostat housing, you may need a new one. If you do, you'll need to drain the system down past the bottom of the thermostat. Majority of folks drain it completely because they are replacing the whole system. I'm not so convinced you are going to get away with only just a degas bottle.
 
If you bought a Dorman brand bottle, then all you have is the tank. You will be removing the hoses at the degas bottle points. If you bought a Motorcraft unit, it will have the proper replacement hoses attached. You will then be removing the unit where they attach to various aluminum lines (2 of which are on the firewall). Either way, you will lose what is in the tanks and lines, but not the radiator or engine, so you will replace what the degas bottle had mostly. Replace coolant with a coolant/distilled water mix.
 
You dont have to drain the entire system for a degas bottle although it is less of a mess. I only drained the system when I replaced the radiator and t-stat housing.
 
If going with the Dorman tank you may need to get a Dorman cap as well. There has been discussions on this in the past where a Dorman tank was used and the system would not pressurize, and it was suspected that the OEM cap would not seal against the Dorman tank. Keep that in mind if you overheat after the job is done.
 
I still dont know why people get cheap and buy the Dorman bottle. Its junk. The cap only fits a few times and wont fit after awhile causing air to get in the cooling system
 
I don't mean to thread jack, however, I'm just curious as to what the symptoms are
when failing to proceed correctly when replacing coolant ? Many of you mention this
religously, and it seems to be a unique feature of this car. Not complaining about it though.

It's just I know coolant had been added prior to my taking possession of this car in early April, and
I have never seen any promblems with engine temps. However, I'm not sure they knew, or proceeded as
recommended. So, just wanted to know if unknowing damage may be occuring since then ?

I'm pretty sure I will take the time to flush the coolant, and replace it to be safe, but, time is lacking for me
right now, so, looking to see when I will schedual this job.

Thanks !
 
Possible symptoms are:
1. Poor or no heat from the climate control.
2. Engine overheating (often unpredictable).
3. Very loud engine cooling fan.

You've gone this long, you are okay.
 
Well gents I indeed changed this thing and a friend of mine, a mechanic, bled the system. The temperatures here in SoCal have been consistently at 95+ and everything seems okay. My only issue is the cap in regards fitment. Should this thing click into place or should it completely cinch down until massively tight? I have a tendency to muscle things at time so I don't want to spin it to the point of stripping threads. However I know air can enter the system if this thing isn't right.
 
It's been a long time, but I don't remember the degas cap clicking. I think it is just tighten it a reasonable amount.
 
LJS30 said:
Well gents I indeed changed this thing and a friend of mine, a mechanic, bled the system. The temperatures here in SoCal have been consistently at 95+ and everything seems okay. My only issue is the cap in regards fitment. Should this thing click into place or should it completely cinch down until massively tight? I have a tendency to muscle things at time so I don't want to spin it to the point of stripping threads. However I know air can enter the system if this thing isn't right.
Click to expand...

joegr said:
It's been a long time, but I don't remember the degas cap clicking. I think it is just tighten it a reasonable amount.
Click to expand...

My factory "bottle" clicks. I usually aim the writing at about 4 o'clock.
 
Well guys I believe my old bottle was a Motorcraft and this new one came with hoses installed and is supposed to be OEM. I have a slight click but then quite a bit more threading to tighten. As I stated I'm always afraid to over tighten as I don't want to break this thing.
 
Okay guys right when I got home I shut the engine off and popped the hood. Guess what? My degas bottle has water coming out via the cap. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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