changing lower control arms and strut rod bushings

[91 LSC SE]

Hi Everyone,

First time changing the LCA and SRB. I searched everywhere and even with everyone's help couldn't find both the front and rear Ford bushings for the the LCA and frame of the car.
The frame bushings look good, so I went with Duralast for the LCA bushings. They came with the washers and the sleeves.
I have the M8 all apart. I opened the new bushings and all 4 look the same - meaning do not see Front or rear. They look to be different design, but want to make sure before installing these. The pic shows the most outer (what Ford calls the "Rear" bushing) fitting snug to the LCA. The inner bushing (what Ford calls the "Front") fits snug but doesn't seat up to the LCA the way the one closest to the nut does. The LCA does have a shallower/smaller angle on the side farthest away from the nut and this is the one that doesn't seat right up against the LCA. It does fit snug in the hole though...not sure if its a new design or Auto Zone gave me the wrong parts? I showed them the bushings I wanted on their screen.

While I was removing the camber bolt, the retaining frame for the camber plate broke.

For anyone doing this be very careful and make sure you loosen this by the nut and not the bolt. I didn't want to chance damaging the inner tie rod boot and with a long socket was hitting the boot. At the time I couldn't find my 13/16 box end wrench.

Three questions:
- Can anyone confirm the above re: bushing? Part number is FA7193. There were 4 bushings, 4 washers and 2 sleeves.

- With it all apart am I better to wait till tomorrow and also do the Upper Control Arm? Or is there not that much difference to just change the UCA?

- How do you guys tighten to specs with the car on the ground? I have read a lot on this doing this and have read you must put a load on the bushings or premature ware and stress can result. I do not have a hoist, I'm doing this at home.

Thanks in advance.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Still trying to get the ball joint out of the knuckle. The ball joint broke and trying to get the ball out by hammering down isn't budging it, been trying for the last hour.

 

[chris2523]

yeah, those bushings look correct.

and i assume you have the pinch bolt out?
after that, unless rust, the ball joint should separate pretty easily from the knuckle.

 

[91 LSC SE]

yeah, those bushings look correct.

and i assume you have the pinch bolt out?
after that, unless rust, the ball joint should separate pretty easily from the knuckle.

Thanks Chris,

There is a pinch bolt on the LCA ball joint? I thought this was in the UCA? Or do you mean the bolt on top of the ball joint at the knuckle?

 

[chris2523]

ah ok, i see what you are up to now. LCA, not UCA.
yes, the top has the pinch bolt. but you are working on the bottom yes?
ok. after the big nut, friction holds the lower ball joint in place.

you can try either a pickle fork, or a pitman puller.
it's been a while since i've done this, but i remember having good luck with the pitman puller.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Thanks Chris,

I'm on the right track, been using a c clamp.

Re: bushings do I use the washers the same way as Ford - cup side facing away from bushing? These look like they cup should face the bushing. See pic above.

The Ford manual doesn't mention any of the three, see pic.

 

[chris2523]

washer cup facing the bushing is what i did.
so opposite the oem ford set up.

interesting. i could see that working with a big f'ing hammer.
trying to think of a way to pull down on the arm, they seem to have glossed over that bit..

 

[91 LSC SE]

washer cup facing the bushing is what i did.
so opposite the oem ford set up.

interesting. i could see that working with a big f'ing hammer.
trying to think of a way to pull down on the arm, they seem to have glossed over that bit..

Yes I think they did a tad!

Just got it out now...wow.

You would think Duralast would put at least a digram with the parts.

How do you torque the bolts with the car at ride height? I can see the uppers with the hood open, but how do you do torque the lower control arm bolts? I'm thinking put on the spare?

Noticed Ford manual said to discard the Lower Strut Arm bolt. Did you guys buy new ones? Or use loctite?

 

[soduka]

I put the front end up on jack stands with the stand under the arm to give it weight bearing and then do it that way.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Thanks Soduka.

I was thinking of using ramp stands and jacking the back end by the rear LCA'a to keep the car level with an even load bearing weight just as it would sit on the ground. I think this would give me enough room to torque the bolts.

I did some more searching and others here say it is possible with the tires on the ground. I haven't tried yet. I have a two foot long torque wrench...

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/fo...the-GROUND-POSITION-when-you-tighten-the-nut-!!!!!

 

[chris2523]

i had ramps that i set the car on to do that.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Thanks Chris,

I will try with it on the ground as mentioned here and if not use the ramps.

I also have seen some talk about lithium grease on the bushings. Ford manual doesn't state anything to that nature.

I was thinking of this maybe? for the Strut Rod bushings, but thinking Sil-Glyde - that is great for the brakes which has metal and rubber together. Wonder would it help or make it worse?

I also put a call into Pepboys about the SR bushings and they couldn't help. I noticed Acdelco has the same style so I emailed them for confirmation. I think Chris is right and the cup side for these bushings should face the bushing, unlike the Ford org. style.

 

[91 LSC SE]

Chris you were right. Here is what ACDelco has to say:
"Good Morning,
Thank you for your inquiry. Based on the information that you provided, the washers should be cup side to the bushing.
For future assistance, we suggest you contact the location where you purchase your ACDelco products.
Thanks for your support of ACDelco!
ACDelco Info-Line"

So no one has any ideas on teh using lithium grease on the bushings? When I read this it sounded like they were put this on the LCA bushings that meet with the frame... I'm not sure if this would help the Strut rod bushings or not.

 

[Adams97Mark]

91 LSC SE, I am going to replace my strut arm bushings and was wondering if you had difficulty removing nuts like I have. I will use the acetone and transfluid mixture on nuts in hopes of losing them but if you have other ideas on this subject please offer your opinions. Also I was going to use propane torch but kinda think it won't produce the high temps needed to effect the steel nuts or is it worth the attempt?

 

[91 LSC SE]

Hi Adam,

I thought I read in the Ford CD manual not use heat on any of the suspension parts for bolts that were too tight. It may have been in another thread, I have been reading up quite a bit on this.

I sprayed my with Rust Check (didn't have WD 40) and didn't have any issue, but I used a electric torque gun and they came off easy.

You can try to tighten them first. Then try loosening them. I have also added my jack bar- Its big enough to go over the ratchet and this gives a lot more leverage, when I have encountered a stubborn nut/bolt.

Best advise I can give is take your time and should you come across a stubborn bolt, don't let it frustrate you.

 

[chris2523]

propane can definitely produce the heat needed, but it will damage any rubber bushings in the suspension.
so don't put heat on anything you aren't replacing.

 

[Adams97Mark]

I think i will try the acetone/transfluid mixture first and see if that works with just hand losing nuts, the electric impact gun will be last option (purchase) seeing I have to use wrench to back off nut that is at frame towards LCA. If need be will try and torch with propane but will be sure and get flame on nut as much as possible. I must agree after removing the starter bolts that were rusted on solid patience is a must when approaching this task. I will let you guys know what worked for me on those bushings which are original (18 years old) but thanks for the tips on approaching task.

 

[jbelcourt]

Hey, do you happen to know what size sockets/wrenches you needed? Mainly just large odd sizes your average Joe might not have with them.

I might tackle the job today but I want to be prepared.

 

[luccianoduckman]

is it recommended to replace any of the nuts on either end of the strut rods when changing the bushings?

 

[91 LSC SE]

is it recommended to replace any of the nuts on either end of the strut rods when changing the bushings?

The Ford manual states to remove and discard the Strut Rod retaining nuts. I do not think these are available anymore and from what I know everyone here reuses them

Has anyone found new or maybe used Loctite?

 

[91 LSC SE]

Hey, do you happen to know what size sockets/wrenches you needed? Mainly just large odd sizes your average Joe might not have with them.

I might tackle the job today but I want to be prepared.

When I searched I found complete list of sizes required.

 

[91 LSC SE]

With work taking most of my time and the rain here every weekend, today was the first chance to get back to this.

I didn't replace the SR bushings at the frame and left the Strut Rod attached at the frame.

I followed Ford manual and tired to connect cam bolt and nut first, then the shock bolt, then the ball joint at the knuckle.
With the cam end bolted in and shock loosely bolted it wouldn't go over the Strut Rod. So I removed the LCA put the Strut Rod and new bushings through it and then connected as manual stated. When I went to connect ball joint, I couldnt' get knuckle over the thread, I tried a jack to raise the knuckle but there was too much tension to move it when it was heigh enough. I then tried jacking up the UCA and again too much tension. I do not recommend this as it didn't seem sturdy or very safe.

I knew that when I first removed the old LCA I wouldn't be able to finish, so I let the car down on bricks at the frame and also did the same for the knuckle and shock, so they wouldn't be hanging. This put the shock and knuckle closer to there normal position. I checked to make sure there wasn't too much tension and there wasn't, I could move them without much effort, so why is it so hard to get the knuckle over the new LCA to put in the ball joint thread to connect them?

 

[Spree]

My thread list everything needed.

http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?88842-SRB-s-Spacer-s-and-LCA-s

 

[jbelcourt]

When I searched I found complete list of sizes required.

Yeah, I completed this job last Saturday already. I had found Spree's post with all the sizes listed and I went and pick up a cheap impact socket set from Harbor Freight so I had the "odd" sizes.

 

[billcu]

With work taking most of my time and the rain here every weekend, today was the first chance to get back to this.

I didn't replace the SR bushings at the frame and left the Strut Rod attached at the frame.

I followed Ford manual and tired to connect cam bolt and nut first, then the shock bolt, then the ball joint at the knuckle.
With the cam end bolted in and shock loosely bolted it wouldn't go over the Strut Rod. So I removed the LCA put the Strut Rod and new bushings through it and then connected as manual stated. When I went to connect ball joint, I couldnt' get knuckle over the thread, I tried a jack to raise the knuckle but there was too much tension to move it when it was heigh enough. I then tried jacking up the UCA and again too much tension. I do not recommend this as it didn't seem sturdy or very safe.

I knew that when I first removed the old LCA I wouldn't be able to finish, so I let the car down on bricks at the frame and also did the same for the knuckle and shock, so they wouldn't be hanging. This put the shock and knuckle closer to there normal position. I checked to make sure there wasn't too much tension and there wasn't, I could move them without much effort, so why is it so hard to get the knuckle over the new LCA to put in the ball joint thread to connect them?

Did you release the air from the airspring?