changing lower control arms and strut rod bushings

Thanks Bill

I didn't, but the car has been sitting for 5 weeks and have a very slow leak in the front (I think the O ring seals). The air bag can be pressed in, it is soft, not firm like normal, so I do not think that is it.
 
Is the stabilizer bar still connected and the other side of the suspension still together?
 
Is the stabilizer bar still connected and the other side of the suspension still together?

Yes, wanted to do one side and have the other for reference if need be.

I followed the Ford manual and took the slack off the UCA and knuckle (still attached) and even then couldn't get it up and over the ball joint thread.

I had to take out the shock bolt and then it would go low enough to get in the knuckle ( what Ford calls the spindle). With it in and the nut tight it was almost in the correct spot to put the shock bolt back in. With very little manoeuvring, I was able to line up the shock and LCA and slide the bolt in.

The ball joint wouldn't tighten, just kept spinning, until I used a jack and raised the LCA.

I put in the grease fitting and grease till the rubber seal around the ball joint filled up.
Question are you supposed to fill this until grease pops out of it, or just till the rubber fills out?
 
That explains the tension, if you're just doing one side it helps to jack the other LCA up because the stabilizer holds them together.

Just put enough grease in to see it expand the rubber a little, don't break the rubber and let it come out.
 
thanks Bill!

I Just finished the LCA. work has been taking all of my time.

How do you torque the cam bolt nut? A small socket won't work as the treads fill the socket so the ratchet can't go into the socket and a long socket will barely fit but then the ratchet won't fit as the steering rack is in the way.

Why do they not put the cam bolt in from the front, so you can use a torque wrench?

One question: the shock bolt hook goes on the outside of the shock arm, correct? The one on the passenger side was on the outside and I didn't notice but when I tried loosening the driver side it moved. I will upload pics shortly.
 
here are the pics for my question above. I believe it should be as I installed it last pic (same as the passenger side) Hook/clip on outside of shock connector.
The first pic is the passenger, the second is how driver side looked once I started to remove it (you can see the scratch from the bolt hook or clip). The hook/clip on the inside.

Just want to confirm the hook/clip should be on the outside. That is what makes sense to me.
20151101_Passenger side.jpg20151101_234404.jpg20151108_170208.jpg

20151101_Passenger side.jpg


20151101_234404.jpg


20151108_170208.jpg
 
yep, outside.
supposed to be so that you can just tighten the nut, and the projection holds the bolt head in place.
 
Thanks Chris!

How do you guys torque the Cam bolt? regular socket is too short and long socket is too long. I would think the bolt should go in from the front and the nut at the back so it would be easy to use a torque wrench.

Maybe you used a smaller torque wrench? No way my 1/2 inch drive would fit even using a smaller drive socket with adaptor.
 
Thanks Chris!

How do you guys torque the Cam bolt? regular socket is too short and long socket is too long. I would think the bolt should go in from the front and the nut at the back so it would be easy to use a torque wrench.

Maybe you used a smaller torque wrench? No way my 1/2 inch drive would fit even using a smaller drive socket with adaptor.

Anyone?
 
I use a regular ratchet and make them really tight.
 
Well I ran into an interesting issue. I use to squeak on tight turns into a parking spot. I replaced the complete lower control arm assembly on both sides, LCA to strut rod bushings and strut rod to frame bushings. For a few days, it was perfectly quite and now after a few weeks it squeaks much worse then it did before and more frequently (not necessarily on a tight turn now).

What gives?

Ugh.
 
I would think that if you switched the left and right cam bolt you could put them on the opposite sides and they would be the same for adjusting the wheel alignment.
Hasn't anyone else thought of this for the cam bolts? By doing this torquing the cam nut would be easy from the back vs. the front with the rack in the way.
 
Well I ran into an interesting issue. I use to squeak on tight turns into a parking spot. I replaced the complete lower control arm assembly on both sides, LCA to strut rod bushings and strut rod to frame bushings. For a few days, it was perfectly quite and now after a few weeks it squeaks much worse then it did before and more frequently (not necessarily on a tight turn now).

What gives?

Ugh.

Did you buy good parts? I have read a lot where the cheap versions from overseas can do exactly what you are experiencing.

I have also heard of a few good parts being defective from the manufacturing process and people here have had to return for a replacement.
 
Did you buy good parts? I have read a lot where the cheap versions from overseas can do exactly what you are experiencing.

I have also heard of a few good parts being defective from the manufacturing process and people here have had to return for a replacement.

Raybestos Pro Grade (Raybestos 507-1397 & Raybestos 507-1398)

I used Moog K8680 for the control arm to strut rod and genuine Ford for the strut rod to frame.

The ONLY thing I can think of that I did wrong was use the aftermarket crap sleeves for the strut rod to frame since I didn't have factory ones or access to any. I have them now so I plan to do the job again and swap sleeves.

I don't think the bushings to the frame would cause the squeak though. It sounds like ball joint squeak.

I never changed my outer tie rods but again, I don't think? those would cause that though I'm not positive.
 
If you sit on the car right over the wheel and quickly jump off, will it make the squeak? Or puling the car up and down by the wheel wheel? If you can make it do that, grab a friend and have him do that while you go down there and listen for it. If the sound is still too generalized, grab a piece of hose or a stethoscope.
 
I also just read that if you torqued/tightened the bolts with car in the air it will can drive weird and squeak as well.

Did you lower the car to normal ride height, push on the front end a few times to get it to go up and down, to get it to proper ride height and then tighten the shock and camber bolts to spec?
I couldn't get the torque wrench on the cam bolt so I used and open in wrench on the pass. side to "feel" the tightness or torque and then did my best to match it on the driver side. You have to wheel align the car, so I'm too concerned as they will have to loosen these to align the car. I will watch to see how they torque the cam nuts.

I didn't change the frame bushing on mine - they looked decent. I couldn't find OEM Strut Rod Frame bushings. Where did you find these and the sleeves? I wouldn't mind buying OEM bushings and if I can't find the sleeves, Chris here makes sleeves.
 

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