Check engine

Careful now. We must be close to having several threads carpet bombed with misinformation again...
 
joegr said:
Fair enough. Corrected...
(Pearl'06'LS, this is just an inside joke.)
Click to expand...

You didn't have to correct it. I just couldn't resist :shifty:

Besides, your (and everyone else's) definition of "drive cycles" is different from "his".
 
Not to thread jack, but hey Joe what's up with that blue tooth to smartphone code reading you mentioned? Are you Implying that they make a bluetooth device that you would connect to the plug where you would normally connect a code reader? And it will sync to your phone wirelessly via bluetooth and can be used through app software? If so, please inform me as to where to get this and what to get. Otherwise, on a $200 budget could you advise me where or what to get in terms of just a typical obII reader? Something that will be able to read the LS common codes, but doesn't need to be super high tech with special software or anything. Have some spending money is all, and I want to invest in a good universal code reader, one that will be LS friendly is a must.

Whichever route, bluetooth or standard handheld, some input or advice would be much appreciated. You can inbox me so this guys thread doesn't get slammed. Thanks
 
I ordered one of these yesterday, and plan to use it with the Torque app for Android. It's supposed to be here tomorrow. I'll let you know how/if it works.
 
The BAFX Bluetooth OBD reader that I ordered arrived. I haven't had a chance to play with it much yet, but I can at least say that it does, in fact, communicate with the car, which my old CenTech reader from Harbor Freight does not. I'm using it with the Torque app, free version so far, on my HTC One M8 phone. The BT pairing worked flawlessly.
 
Ok so I picked up the code reader and pulled this code

P0405
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low

My original code from the dealership was P0108.

The dealership was pretty vague with the code description on the invoice.. It says P0108 Needs AGR Valve Assembly. (They actually have AGR not EGR beside te code).

Being that I have the code reader and the EGR only takes 15 mins or so to swap out..just for curiousity later i may put my old EGR back on and run the code reader and see what code it pulls.

Any thoughts on these aftermarket EGR's and anyone have any experiences with them?

I am 100% certain my vacuum lines coming off the EGR and fuel rail hooking up to the intake are good. I even sprayed a bit of carb cleaner while it was running and no change in idle. Are there other vacuum lines I should be checking?

This is starting to get expensive haha! It will be worth it though once that darn light is off!

Thanks guys!
 
The OEM EGR valve is what $10 to $20 more than this aftermarket one? Get the OEM and be done with it. I had to replace one of mine for P0108, and have had no related problems since.
 
I fixed my P0108 with an aftermarket egr (standard motor products). But, I also replaced the hoses at the same time as well.

You sure everything is installed properly?
 
stugots said:
I fixed my P0108 with an aftermarket egr (standard motor products). But, I also replaced the hoses at the same time as well.

You sure everything is installed properly?
Click to expand...

Admittedly, I replaced my hoses too.
 
Ickaber said:
The BAFX Bluetooth OBD reader that I ordered arrived. I haven't had a chance to play with it much yet, but I can at least say that it does, in fact, communicate with the car, which my old CenTech reader from Harbor Freight does not. I'm using it with the Torque app, free version so far, on my HTC One M8 phone. The BT pairing worked flawlessly.
Click to expand...

So it works with the LS just fine? If it works well and will read basic engine codes via an Android tablet then I'm going to order one. I'd assume you use the Torque app to pull the codes correct? Thanks for your sharing
 
yes you will need some sort of app to do the pulling, Torque can read and reset basic engine codes.
 
SoulSoak said:
So it works with the LS just fine? If it works well and will read basic engine codes via an Android tablet then I'm going to order one. I'd assume you use the Torque app to pull the codes correct? Thanks for your sharing
Click to expand...

It worked with my 2000 LS (V6) okay. I haven't had a chance to play with it too much, but it did connect and communicate, which is more than my other code reader could do. I used the free version of the Torque app, and while I didn't have any codes for it to read (it checked and confirmed there were none), it was able to show me RPMs, coolant temp, etc. Supposedly, it will be able to display any data for which your car has sensors, as well as any codes.
 
Pearl'06'LS said:
Any thoughts on these aftermarket EGR's and anyone have any experiences with them?
Click to expand...

My own non-LS experience is the aftermarket ones are designed to fit (notice I don't say work) on as many different cars as possible, and won't necessarily solve your problem. IMO you avoid adding new problems to the mix by getting the correct for the car OEM part than an aftermarket one. What's bad is that the aftermarket may solve the exact problem, but create a different problem which may cause a new code to be set, or cause it to not run right which may cause a different, sorta related code to be set a few months down the road. And, since you just replaced the EGR, when you see Replace EGR in the troubleshooting steps you'll assume that since you just replaced it that this isn't the problem and replace all the other recommended parts instead just to not fix anything.
 
^ right on...



to add to that, there seems to be two main areas that the aftermarket focuses on.

the first is the performance market, companies make a lot of parts that are either heavier duty or are just made to go beyond where the OEM wasn't designed for.

the other area is OEM replacement parts at a fraction of the price as their OEM counterparts

as far as the LS is concerned, the first option doesn't really exist, and thing aftermarket tends to be garbage and you're lucky if they even work out of the box (hey Dorman degas bottle and ebay coils, I'm talking to you!)

it sure would be nice if there were aftermarket companies making awesome performance parts for us, but we all know that ship has long sailed.
 
Stugots I am certain everything is installed correctly yes.

I may put new vacuum lines on just in case. I will also put my old EGR back on just to see what code it gives and cross reference them both.(hopefully I'll have time today).

So Joe..your thoughts are the aftermarket EGR I bought is most likely NFG?(no f'n good).. Maybe my best bet is to try new vacuum lines first then maybe order an OEM EGR..

I wonder if i could tear down my 2 bad EGRs and make one good one..
 
From what you have described, it seems most likely that the aftermarket part is the problem. I doubt you could swap parts between them to make it work.
 
Pearl'06'LS said:
Ok so I picked up the code reader and pulled this code

P0405
Exhaust Gas Recirculation Sensor A Circuit Low

My original code from the dealership was P0108.

The dealership was pretty vague with the code description on the invoice.. It says P0108 Needs AGR Valve Assembly. (They actually have AGR not EGR beside te code).

Being that I have the code reader and the EGR only takes 15 mins or so to swap out..just for curiousity later i may put my old EGR back on and run the code reader and see what code it pulls.

Any thoughts on these aftermarket EGR's and anyone have any experiences with them?

I am 100% certain my vacuum lines coming off the EGR and fuel rail hooking up to the intake are good. I even sprayed a bit of carb cleaner while it was running and no change in idle. Are there other vacuum lines I should be checking?

This is starting to get expensive haha! It will be worth it though once that darn light is off!

Thanks guys!
Click to expand...

Did you check if there is a response to EGR valve operation? Check the EGR port in the intake, it might be clogged, so no gases can go through it.
 
Ok so I've had time to swap back EGR valves. Now im really confused haha!

Putting back on the original EGR where I was originally getting code P0108.. The engine light hasn't come on yet after taking it on and off the highway a few times for a total of 20 miles or so with turning it off and on at the half way point. Maybe I haven't cycled the engine enough? I feel I should have especially being before with this same EGR and also the new EGR I was getting the code immediately upon startup after taking it for the same highway run.

The only thing that I did different this time was spray the old EGR with carb cleaner before I installed it...the car does seem a bit sluggish tonight with the old EGR compared to the new aftermarket one that is giving me code P0405.

Any suggestions before I go and order another EGR?

Much appreciated!
 
I think it takes longer for a P0108 to show up than a P0405...
 
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