Cleaning, polishing, waxing a 2000 Lincoln LS

Bengal313

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I have a 00 Black LS that has some scratches and some of the paint is slightly faded from the weather and car washes. I want to try and restore the paint and shine. I bought a orbital buffer and now I need your help in finding the right wax product for the job. Can you guys recommend some products that would clean, polish and protect the paint? I know there are separate products for each step and also there are all-in-one products. What do you guys use or recommend?
 
I use/have been using for few years now, Meguiar's Cleaner Wax, Polish and the Carnauba Wax. I have been getting nothing but compliments on my cars. Here is a picture of my Mark viii sometime before i sold it. The paint on it is 14years old, and i think it's good example how well their products work. I am sure there are products out there that are much better but i am personally happy with Meguiar's.

Markviiiis178-2.gif
 
I'm sure pektal will chime in. He has some good info on this type of stuff... However it seems over-the-counter stuff isn't too popular with all the detail guys. More of an underground online ordering scene it seems.
 
Did you get a PC?

There are TONS of products out there, really depends on how much you want to spend and how much correction you want to achieve....

Do you want to use a synthetic wax or a carnuba wax, how about a sealer?
 
CG's makes some great products, but if you dont' know what to look for, their site can be very overwhelming.

First off, what kind of orbital buffer did you buy? If you bought the ~8" monstrosity with the 2 handles from like walmart, throw it away or return it.

Paint correction is VERY time consuming, especially without a good machine polisher. A good beginner machine is the Porter Cable 7424. Along with that, you'll need a selection of foam pads. I'd recommend the pads from www.detailersdomain.com. Get 2 of each of the orange, and green at least. If you plan on applying the sealant or wax by machine, get a blue pad too. Get 5.5" or smaller pads. The porter cable isn't strong enough to utilize them.

Meguiar's makes some good polishes for DA machines (the porter cable is a DA (dual action) polisher), and einszett proline and prima are very DA friendly polishes. I have the einszett ones if you want to just buy a little bit.

You should get 3 polishes. A higher cut compound, a medium polish, and a finishing polish. Einszett, for example, has 3 grades. Intensive paste, High Gloss Polish, and Final Finish. You can get more cut than the intensive paste, but you would need to move to another brand.

This should be your process:

Wash - use a high concentration of soap to water, to remove any wax on the car. Dawn dish soap works for this, but you don't want to use it very often.

Claybar - this removes embedded contaminants that washing won't remove on it's own. Go to autozone and get the claymagic blue kit. Cheap and effective.

Polish - this is the meat and potatoes of detailing. This is where you use your buffer to remove the swirls/imperfections. Expect 4-6 hours per trip around the car. You can visit sites like www.autogeek.net to see some basic instructional videos.

Glaze - this step just adds shine, or if you get a glaze with fillers, will help mask the remaining defects. This step is really the only one that can be skipped in a complete detail.

Seal - almost always a liquid, a paint sealant is made of synthetic polymers instead of carnauba. These typically last longer than carnauba waxes, especially on darker colors.

Wax - Looks are better than a sealant, but doesn't last as long. What most do is use a sealant first, then top it with a wax to add to the looks.
 
I'm sure pektal will chime in. He has some good info on this type of stuff... However it seems over-the-counter stuff isn't too popular with all the detail guys. More of an underground online ordering scene it seems.

It's not that some of the OTC stuff isn't good. Just that detailing products aimed towards the average consumer need to be dumbed down. They are a lot less effective at removing imperfections, because not everyone will do any more reasearch other than read the back of the bottle, and they need to make their products as user-friendly and user-safe as possible. Consumer products also are cost driven, instead of performance-driven. Which means that the company will make the product as cheaply as possible, instead of making a product that performs the best. Simply because that's what consumers want. To most, 25 dollars is too much to spend on a wax. I have a $200 wax (Dodo Juice: Supernatural) from England in my collection.

The items I buy online work faster, but to an uninformed person, they would have a higher chance of hurting their paint's finish.

A good place to order Meguiar's is www.autodetailingsolutions.com I like their Mirror Glaze and Detailer lines. I tend to stay away from the consumer line simply because I can get results faster using their products aimed at professionals.

A good place for microfiber towels is www.theragshack.com. Owner's name is Justin, and he also owns www.obsessivedetail.com. He's a great guy great prices, and ships very quickly.

For general detailingproducts, www.detailersdomain.com, www.autogeek.com, www.detailedimage.com, www.autopia.org, www.carnaubawaxshop.co.uk, and www.polishedbliss.com are some good sites.

You can visit the detailing forum here, and I'd be glad to answer any questions you guys have. I'm sure there are a few of us in particular (myself, KD00LS, and kustomizingkid) that will be able to help you guys out.
 
I'm the guy they make the "dummed down" stuff for. I read Pektel's post and it makes me think I'd rather drive up to MN and pay him to do it than try and tackle it myself.

My typical scenario is to wash it thoroughly, do my best to get the bugs and crap off the front, then wax the :q:q:q:q out of it. Unfortunately, this does nothing to correct the paint and I am starting to get enough imperfections built up that a thorough detail job will be required.
 
Klasse AIO, Jeff's Werkstatt Prime Strong, Duragloss 501.....
 
actually all the steps i lined out, minus polishing, can be done in an afternoon. griots does make some decent stuff, but most is overpriced. if you read the description, it notes that for decent correction, you need to buy polishes to remove deeper defects. but if you are happy with just "better than it was before" results, than get that kit.

it would be a good kit for someone who does not want to research buying separate products.

but you can buy a porter cable 7424 in the $75 range now. i can set up a lot better "kit" for 190 bucks.

believe me when i say that griots will line out an identical process. except they have an all in one product after claying. any of the 3 products kd00ls pointed out will yield good results. send me a pm if you.d like me to list out a proper kit for you. i can most surely save you some money.
 
xp is the new one right? I.ve moved up to a rotary (makita 9227) and have my pc as backup. but i bought my slightly used one for 75 shipped. there are guys getting them new at that price since the new model was just released. i.ll reasearch where they are getting them at that price, and let you know! iirc, it was just at www.autogeek.net. i.m writing from my phone, so it would take too long to check right now. i.ll check it out in the am for you.
 

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