Code P0357

Lol, I see why you liked the LS you picked. Looks so much like your MKZ.

BTW, Opinion about the coil covers - I prefer mine on due to looks, and the potential of some kind of crap getting down in there. While it is true heat will cause issue, I look at it from the point of the good coils we talked about got upwards of 100k with the cover, so really I side for a little more protection and the looks.
 
grizzlyls said:
Lol, I see why you liked the LS you picked. Looks so much like your MKZ.

BTW, Opinion about the coil covers - I prefer mine on due to looks, and the potential of some kind of crap getting down in there. While it is true heat will cause issue, I look at it from the point of the good coils we talked about got upwards of 100k with the cover, so really I side for a little more protection and the looks.
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And the boots don't seal water out as they do on the V6. Water could easily pool in the well and short-out the coil.
 
Was just made aware I said 0.040mm when it should have been 0.040inch.


my bad ... thanks for the correction 02LincLS
 
grizzlyls said:
Lol, I see why you liked the LS you picked. Looks so much like your MKZ.

BTW, Opinion about the coil covers - I prefer mine on due to looks, and the potential of some kind of crap getting down in there. While it is true heat will cause issue, I look at it from the point of the good coils we talked about got upwards of 100k with the cover, so really I side for a little more protection and the looks.
Click to expand...

The funny thing about it is this: This is my now my 4th Lincoln ('06 Zephyr, 09 MKS, '96 Mark VIII LSC, and '03 LS)...my favorite color is red and definitely on my car but when I got the new MKZ in April, no red in stock and since they weren't making any new ones because of the impending '17 MKZ refresh, I decided that I'll let the red rest for a little bit. When I saw the Platinum Dune Metallic with the bright polished wheels, it was a done deal. With the LS I just purchased I wanted a dark gray, graphite or even burgundy, or red lol one but didn't see any. Most were black or light gray. When I saw the one i got in the same color as the MKZ I said "man this must be meant to be" and I got her as well. Wished I could get one in red though or even the blue
 
Ya that Vivid Red (or something like that) seems rare as hell from that one year, but it is real pretty.
 
Quote LS4:

"And the boots don't seal water out as they do on the V6. Water could easily pool in the well and short-out the coil."

While this is true,,, Unless a person drives through deep water... or the cowl seal fails,,, it is very unlikely. Even with the coil covers on... if the cowl seal fails,,, water will drip onto the coil harness and migrate under the coil cover. Ford had a TSB on this years ago.
 
Quote LS4:

"The V6 dos have the same type cooling system. Had the degas fail on the way to The Happiest Place on Earth years ago..."

My error. Good information. Thank you.
 
So I ordered the COP today from Rock Auto, I didn't get Motorcraft but ended up with Delphi plugs as they have been a leader in quality over the years plus GM owned them for many years. A friend of mine bought them and had no issues. Got NGK iridium plugs...so waiting for all the stuff to get here....oh how i wish this could solve the hard shifting issue as i parked the LS in the garage until i get everything fixed but im itching to drive it :)
 
Get it running right, only then look at any possible trans issues. PCM may need rework, Shift solenoid pack may need to be replaced.
 
You did good so far kid. I know your plight, at least you wont have to wait until christmas week to replace the timing chain and oil pump system like me. :mad: Been itchin to take a road trip to Vegas since March....
 
So its Coil 7 i found out that's misfiring...is there anything to look out for with that particular code? is that the one closest to the pcm?
 
LQ1906 said:
So its Coil 7 i found out that's misfiring...is there anything to look out for with that particular code? is that the one closest to the pcm?
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No. #4 is closest. #5 is furthest. Counting from the front to the back, #7 is third from the front on the driver's side. P035x are primary circuit codes, so it could be the coil, it could be the wiring between the coil and the PCM (I'm counting the connectors as well here), it could be the PCM itself, or (much less likely) it could be the spark plug.
 
Okay so in a doldrum if you will...so my friend who was suppose to do the coils and plugs for me has been put on mandatory overtime indefinitely so no telling when he would have time and by him living a hour away its not feasible to continue waiting around. With noone else in my immediate area who is on this forum or on FB with the experience to remove the coils on the drivers side which i hear is somewhat difficult to access, I have to go to a mechanic. So a few that I've call that I do trust told me that they would have to remove the intake manifold to R&R. Is this true? Any other way around this or is the standard way that the mechanics do it. So looking at a minimum of $300 in just labor...in that case would be better to just replace the gasket while in there i would assume since the labor would probably be the same.
 
BigRigLS said:
LQ,

P035x DTCs are often caused by the coil connector or harness as well as the COP itself.

Pull the drivers side coil cover off, remove coil # 7, second from the back. Don't remove the plug, look down into the plug well and see if there is any water or oil down there. Do not remove the plug if there is.

Coil G also known as #7 is shorting to ground, you'll need to check coil and connector.

Myself I'd swap coil 7 to 6 and 6 to 7, clear code with OBDII reader and try again. If the problem moved to # 6, I would then realize it's the coil itself. If not then the problem is related to the connector or harness to #7

As with any used LS that show symptoms of running rough or such, I'd prefer to pull all coils, look down wells before removing plugs, if dry, remove plugs, throw it all in the garbage and replace all coils with Ford OEM DG529's. All new NGK Iridium plugs correctly gapped and verified at 0.040mm, even .038 and .039 is nice. Use dielectric grease inside the coil boots. Reseat all coil connectors gently and ensure you feel and hear the little click as it snaps in.

I'd even run it with the coil covers off for a bit to keep an eye on them until 100% sure problem corrected.

I wouldn't screw around with mismatch coils and plugs, it's either all new fresh OEM stuff or nothing at all. All at once, not one coil or two plugs here and there ... waste of time!

CARFAX states coils replaced two year ago means jack ... should see the crap I've pulled out from under coil covers. Shops and dealers tend to only replace what is broken, thus after a few visits, you end up with all mismatched differant aged coils and plugs. NOT GOOD.

Up to you of course, what do I know!

GLWR
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Also meant to ask this alot earlier than now but since I still haven't got the work done I still could get the part. Is the Coil Connector and harness one and the same or two different parts altogether. How much are those usually and can I get an aftermarket one to do the job or is OEM only?
 
The "mechanic" was talking about the V6. There is no need (and no advantage) to remove the intake manifold to replace the coils and plugs on the V8. This is a DIY job. It is not difficult. A few bolts are hard to get to, but if you don't mind spending five or ten minutes on those bolts, you can do it. Otherwise, you can buy better tools and get them faster.

The harness has the wiring and all the connectors. It was expensive when it was available, but it's not available now. It would also be a lot of labor to change it out. Instead just replace whichever connectors are bad. Yes, there are aftermarket connectors.
 
LQ1906 said:
Okay so in a doldrum if you will...so my friend who was suppose to do the coils and plugs for me has been put on mandatory overtime indefinitely so no telling when he would have time and by him living a hour away its not feasible to continue waiting around. With noone else in my immediate area who is on this forum or on FB with the experience to remove the coils on the drivers side which i hear is somewhat difficult to access, I have to go to a mechanic. So a few that I've call that I do trust told me that they would have to remove the intake manifold to R&R. Is this true? Any other way around this or is the standard way that the mechanics do it. So looking at a minimum of $300 in just labor...in that case would be better to just replace the gasket while in there i would assume since the labor would probably be the same.
Click to expand...

joegr said:
The "mechanic" was talking about the V6. There is no need (and no advantage) to remove the intake manifold to replace the coils and plugs on the V8. This is a DIY job. It is not difficult. A few bolts are hard to get to, but if you don't mind spending five or ten minutes on those bolts, you can do it. Otherwise, you can buy better tools and get them faster.

The harness has the wiring and all the connectors. It was expensive when it was available, but it's not available now. It would also be a lot of labor to change it out. Instead just replace whichever connectors are bad. Yes, there are aftermarket connectors.
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Yup.... A 7mm swivel socket will be your friend for the bolt by the brake booster. I got mine from Pelican Parts...
 
LS4me said:
... I got mine from Pelican Parts...
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Well, I can guess why you shop there. I've ordered a pretty good bit of stuff from them. I ordered one power steering reservoir once and received four. (Of course, I sent the other three back.)
 
joegr said:
Well, I can guess why you shop there. I've ordered a pretty good bit of stuff from them. I ordered one power steering reservoir once and received four. (Of course, I sent the other three back.)
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Actually it was the cheapest...
 
LQ,

You can do this! It's not hard,,, it just takes some time. The hardest part is getting the coil covers off. After that it's pretty simple, and I would still recommend leaving the coil covers off afterwards, (why am I starting to feel like Don here). One bolt per coil. One electrical connector per coil, (be gentle pulling them). R&R plug,,, and put a small amount of "never seize" on the threads of each plug before you install them. Buy a small 4" length of 1/4" vacuum hose to install the plugs. Slip it on the "nipple" end of the plug before threading it in the hole... and it will aid you in threading the spark plug in.

Once the plug is threaded in,,, use the appropriate socket with ratchet and extension to run the plug down until it stops. Then tighten it slightly more. Say with the ratchet at 12 o'clock,,, tighten to the 1 o'clock position. Not too tight or you will strip the threads in the head and be FUBAR'ed.

To install the coils afterwards...

Push coil on with fingers and hold coil mount flat where the screw goes in. Run screw in with fingers or socket until snug,,, and use the same 12 o'clock to 1 o'clock tightening as for the plugs. Reconnect each coil connector as you do each plug... that way you don't get them confused.

As LS4 said,,, the coil cover bolts by the brake booster will be the hardest. I think I just used a short wrench about 3 inches long,,, and went 1/4 turn at a time. I thought they were 8mm... but LS4 may be right. I don't remember because I pulled the coil covers 100k miles ago,,, and left them off, (with no problems since).

Of course... opinions may vary at this point.
 
Thanks Joe and 04_Sport....How much is the 7mm swivel socket. Think maybe I can go to Autozone use it and take it back haha! But honestly I will try and tackle this job this weekend. As far as the CEL light, if I do it correctly will the light go off automatically or do i have to use someone's scanner to turn it off.
 
LQ1906 said:
... As far as the CEL light, if I do it correctly will the light go off automatically or do i have to use someone's scanner to turn it off.
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Yes, it will go off on its own several drive cycles after the problems are corrected.
 
Coils, plugs, fuel filter, and air filter were replaced along with wiper blades and new tire on yesterday....which happened to be my birthday......only to find out that oil leaked into one of the wells....i think cylinder 2 or 6...it's on the passenger side....he told me that i need to bring it back very soon to replace the valve cover gaskets or i'll be having the same problem again soon enough. He didn't do the valve cover gaskets right there as he didn't have the parts and it was getting late. So I could have left my car over night and he would have called me this morning with price estimate on parts and labor or bring it back. needless to say i chose the latter.
 
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