Codes P0171, P0175 and P0307

devilsy2k

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Hi, I have 01 lincoln ls v8 that I just bought. It has codes P0171, P0175 and P0307. After doing some research it led me to belive that secondary tensioner broke and possibly jumped timing. I took both valve covers off and found that drivers side chain was riding on metal part of the tensioner, looks like the plastic broke off. The chain doesn't appear to have any slack, but I didnt rotate The engine yet. The question is how would I know if it's off timing? I don't see any marks, or should I just try to replace the tensioners, but why would codes for 1 bank lean and the other one rich. Your help is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
Two of those are transmission codes. They have nothing to do with any engine or timing problem. In your case, it looks like its the DTR or the wiring to it.
The other code is for misfire. This too is unlikely to be related to any timing chain issues. You need to change all the COPs (Coil-On-plug) and all the plugs. Be sure to use OEM coils and to set the plugs to exactly 1.0mm. I know you will resist doing this, but you will regret it if you don't do it. Very common, LS specific issue.

Turn the crankshaft by hand. There is a flat on each cam near the front. Those should line up.
This is for the 2nd gen engine, but the alignment part is the same: http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31016.htm~gen~ref.htm
You will need to change those tensioners, and you really should change the secondary chains too.
 
I'm sorry i posted wrong codes, I don't know where I got those from lol. The actual code is for bank 1 too lean and bank 2 too rich.
 
for whats its worth, those are not actual codes...
The codes are P0171, P0175 and P0307. I just wanted to know how to find out if the car jumped timing.
Joeger: thank you for your answer and shop manual. Do I have to remove spark plugs before I turn the engine by hand and try to align the flats?
The car was running but very rough at idle and like it wanted to die.
 

I think a bit more info is needed here. No, you don't need to pull the plugs but you will find it a lot easier to turn the engine by hand if you do pull the plugs. At almost all points of crank rotation you are compressing air in at least one cylinder. Pull the plugs and there is no compression. Also, the valve train turns at half the speed of the crank so you may need to rotate the engine by hand more than one time around to get the flats lined up.
 
I think a bit more info is needed here. No, you don't need to pull the plugs but you will find it a lot easier to turn the engine by hand if you do pull the plugs. At almost all points of crank rotation you are compressing air in at least one cylinder. Pull the plugs and there is no compression. Also, the valve train turns at half the speed of the crank so you may need to rotate the engine by hand more than one time around to get the flats lined up.
Thank you, I'm going to replace plugs anyway, might as well take them out. And if the flats don't line up, do I take the chain off and move the cam so it lines up?
 
So I replaced both tensioners and the car is running really smooth now, no missfires no codes. BUT, when the car warms up it has a rattle that seems to be coming from drivers side where the tensioner broke. It doesn't do it when the car is cold at start up and also when you rev it it goes away. When it rattles there's no rythm to it, it does it for3 sec and would go away for a sec and might do it again for 5. Could it be stretched chain? I just got this car from auction as a donation unit so I don't know how it sounded before. The oil looks fresh but must be more than 1 year old, so is gas. It has Fram oil filter.
 
Yes, you should replace the chain if the tensioner has already failed. Search, others had stretched chains too.
 

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