Custom Sub Box

Right now I'm excited about firing it up as it is.
I want to start that out as the base before I do anything else.
If it sounds like poo I can easily get some 3" ports from a car audio store
or 3" paper or ABS tube from Home Depot and put them in place of the vents.
The swivel gate latches I used to hold it to the car allow for fast easy access.
My Camaro box due to it's location is undersized.
It's mostly a long triangle and has rectangular ports with a depth of 2 inches.
Those vents are right behind the subs similar to this LS setup.
It kicks ass.
I really want it venting or porting into the LS at the 6 x 9
locations.
Thanks for your suggestions guys.
I'll keep them in mind.
 
Ok
Got it almost done except the factory subs and amp stopped working so I'll have to hook up to the door speakers.(for now)
Ran a switch wire along with the amp remote volume control.
Thanks guys and critics for all your help with my project.

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Curious to how it sounds without ports.

I'd love to do this with 2 cheap 10" on factory amp and see how it goes. I'll shoot you a PM for the How-To
 
I'd love to do this with 2 cheap 10" on factory amp and see how it goes. I'll shoot you a PM for the How-To
Click to expand...

Zip file sent.
The amp is pretty small.
The factory subs are rated 45 watts at 2 ohms.
Suppose you'de get something out of it better than
stock with some cheap 10's.

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got the zip.. how bout a better pic of the ' blueprint '. you used to cut the pieces..
 
You know, I'm gonna send you a pm for the zip file too. I only have 1 12" sub, but I can modify this design to the proper airspace for one component. simple geometry, right? Then I'll mount the amp on the front of the box, so as to not worry about overheating issues.
 
Im working on a photoshopped version of the pieces right now. I found an error in dimensions on piece 2 that I e-mailed him on.

And Pete, we should have a little custom sub box clinic at Nics house :D
 
LsUnV2 said:
got the zip.. how bout a better pic of the ' blueprint '. you used to cut the pieces..
Click to expand...

Try zooming in on pic 0031.
It's the only one I didn't shrink.
It's 936 kb whereas the others are 50-60 kb.
You should be able to get all the measurements off it.
If not let me know and I'll take another pic.

The blueprint was drawn after I made it.
I made the pieces using a tape measure.

Angles should be mitered with a table saw or just use a grinder.
 
CrackerJack said:
Im working on a photoshopped version of the pieces right now. I found an error in dimensions on piece 2 that I e-mailed him on.

And Pete, we should have a little custom sub box clinic at Nics house :D
Click to expand...

I drew the diagrams right off the box, took the time to do it for you guys.
If there's an error pm me with it so I'll correct it in the zip.

These dimensions can be nominal.
 
Do you see on the lip for Piece 2 and 6 that the lip is 29 3/4", and the 2 ends are each 5 1/2" thats 40 3/4" not 40"
 
CrackerJack said:
Do you see on the lip for Piece 2 and 6 that the lip is 29 3/4", and the 2 ends are each 5 1/2" thats 40 3/4" not 40"
Click to expand...


Yes I see.
I was tired when I drew this and didn't double check it.
It is 5 1/8.

Just keep fitting it up in the car as you go along.
Make sure you have enough space to go over the wheel well humps so you can install the last 2 small pieces.
 
pektel said:
You know, I'm gonna send you a pm for the zip file too. I only have 1 12" sub, but I can modify this design to the proper airspace for one component. simple geometry, right? Then I'll mount the amp on the front of the box, so as to not worry about overheating issues.
Click to expand...

You can modify it any way you like.
You can make it shallower and with 10's they can be spaced more apart and more centered top to bottom.
There's 6 1/2" depth for the subs at which point they hit the corner where pieces 3 and 4 come together.
This can be ground to get more clearance up to an extra 3/4 of an inch.
 
Finally finished my "project." I went through and made the pieces in photoshop with dimensions so you can print them off or whatever.

File is a .ZIP
 

Attachments

  • Pieces.zip
    67.8 KB · Views: 270
That's great.
I traced my diagrams right off the box (except pieces 3 and 4)before I put the components in then measured up the dimensions with a tape measure.
It was fast and easy, to scale and I think it came out well except for my small error.

Due to the miters and the trapeziodal shape some of the box final dimensions you come up with when it's finished and carpeted will vary 1/4 inch or so.

This kind of thing has to be fitted up as you go at least a few times.
I had it in and out of the trunk many times but then again I was making the first one.
I knew some people would be asking me for plans so I took the time to trace it out on the boxboard as that was the fastest best way to do it at the time.

If you study these 2 pics below you can see how the pieces go together.
I presume my assembly procedure was pretty clear.

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I think next week me and my friend are going to go get the MDF sheet. I presume it was a 4'x8'?

Also, I left out the holes for the woofers in my diagram. Im going to make separate ones for 12" or 10" woofers and re-package it.
 
MDF comes 49" x 97"
you need 5 ft or 49 x 60.
The small pieces can be made from the cut offs or the circles cut for the sub holes.
 
Is MDF that board with the crushed up kinda powdery orange crap in the middle? Thats dusty as hell :(
 
Medium density fiberboard.
Sometimes called Ranger board.
Fiber paper mush board but 3/4" thick.
Grinds real easy.
Don't know about any orange in the middle.
It's light brown in color.
You can also use particle board but I think it's a bit heavier.
That's dusty too.
I suppose you could use a good grade of plywood too as long as it's flat.
I think there's also a 3/4" 5' x 5' sheet (baltic berch?) that is very flat.
 
Im sticking with my Alpines. Pu tin an entire Alpine (Type R's) system in 3 friends cars and blow away my friends (2 of em) infinities / JBLs. And that's without amping them :D

My friend Kurt is an aspiring carpenter of sorts, I'll see what he wants to make it out of. If anyone is willing to buy one instead of building it. I may be able to build a few of these this summer and ship em out for you guys.
 
Shipping a box is insanely expensive.

And to 04SCTLS, I don't think plywood would be a good option for a box. I would think something with a more consistency in density would be better. Also, I wouldn't want the box to be completed, turn it on, and have a section of it rattle because of delamination. MDF is definitely the way to go for a box (if not using fiberglass)
 
I like the MDF because it's true and easy to work with as well as the delamination potential issue.

Ya shipping would be expensive for something like this.
 
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