Dash Cluster Intermittant Powers Off Issue *Still*

[Torx]

I keep going back to this little side project trying to figure out this issue so i can sell my lincoln.. or keep it.. I just want it running right.

The dash cluster will go out, needles max out, then repeat randomly. Seems to get worse the longer the car is on. If i turn the battery off from the car for a day or two, it'll come on and be normal for a while then start erratically power off and on. It used to do it while i was driving, car still drove fine, but i could get stuck somewhere because the dash wouldnt come back on if i turned the car off.

so ive bought a replacement cluster, of course its not a direct swap because the dealership needs to program it with the security system But ive swapped boards, resoldered pins, magnifying glasses all components.. If i can figure out which chip holds the vin/odo data i'll just swap that to the good board and try that.

Ive also bought a trunk ecu unit, swapped that, didnt fix the problem.
removed alot of fuses, still didnt fix the problem. I hate it because the car is still clean for being a 2003. Any ideas??

maybe its not the cluster at all?
heres a video, watch the very beginning it does that over and over again randomly, and seemingly never at all until you least expect it.

 

[fudge12]

As a rough fix, try redirecting all grounds to another ground on the chassis. If not, try running a direct 12v power source to the battery. Looks more of like a databus fault though.

 

[112 LS]

I had a similar issue years ago. However to be specific, my gauge cluster was fried due to a wiring issue. There was a bend in the engine harness (near the passenger headlight) that water had accumulated in over the years and rotted. Also had a used cluster put in (now my miles are way wrong which sucks).

Just a thought, maybe test the wires.

 

[joegr]

As a rough fix, try redirecting all grounds to another ground on the chassis. If not, try running a direct 12v power source to the battery. Looks more of like a databus fault though.

Before doing anything like that (LS doesn't seem to have interior ground issues), use a voltmeter to check between power (each one, one at a time) and ground at the cluster. If it's good there (while it is having the problem) then it's not a power/ground issue.

 

[Torx]

heres a video of someone with the exact!! same issue! So its not just me, its apparently a real issue for some.


i was out checking some of the grounds that i could find, nothing out of the ordinary. Tracing wires around to see if anything is grounding out.
I'm stumped. Seems like when its real hot and humid outside it really starts going crazy, then it'll just power off and not come back on until you disconnect the battery and try it the next day. Weird.


and another

 

[Torx]

Any new ideas?

How about this. The working replacement cluster powers up, car chimes with key in, everything works except of course the car wont crank because the replacement cluster is mismatching the pats/ecu modules.
Could i possibly install a remote starter, that has its own built in pats bypass workaround? And just start the car remotely instead of inside? Sounds like a hassle but im selling this and i want it working in some way, push come to shove i'll keep the car as a backup but i want this working without the dealership trying to charge me 400-1000 to fix.

 

[joegr]

Did you ever test with a voltmeter? Need those results to offer any other suggestions.

Remote start with the real bypass still has to be "married" to the PCM, so I don't see how that saves you any steps or grief. (Those without a real bypass just use the PATS in the cluster.)