DCCV Wiring Harness

06blackls

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Over the weekend I started to change the infamous dccv valve due to lack of air and constant hot air. So when i got to it and went to unplug the valve. I found that the the male end of the wiring harness and the female end of the valve Had melted together. Clearly there was no saving either one. However, i contacted my ford dealership to get a new plug and they claim they cannot get one. I also tried all the junk yard to maybe find a plug and they had nothing as well. I temporarily connected the wires together with generic plus and put some heat shrink over the whole thing, however, id like to find that plug to make sure it is right. Does anyone have any ideas on where i could find this plug?
 
You are probably gonna have to get one from a bone yard. Were you able to get the old wires out of the melted connector, or did you cut them?
 
I had to cut them. There was nothing left on the inside of either end. Too bad the fuse didn't do its job! It was still good. Replaced in anyways and i have cold AC again. Would just like a factory fix. Ill look at junk yards a little farther away i suppose.
 
There are a few used ones on ebay that have the connector.

Search HEATER CONTROL VALVE on ebay

Prices are no good though
 
Im assuming that when the dccv goes bad, it is possible to cause a short. Hence why there is a 10a fuse online to blow so that things don't melt. In my case, the fuse was fine, which is why the parts melted. In saying this, the problem is not in the factory plug. Its why the fuse didn't blow that's the problem. Maybe it was just a poorly made fuse... either way, i think the factory plug is sufficient.
 
Im assuming that when the dccv goes bad, it is possible to cause a short. Hence why there is a 10a fuse online to blow so that things don't melt. In my case, the fuse was fine, which is why the parts melted. In saying this, the problem is not in the factory plug. Its why the fuse didn't blow that's the problem. Maybe it was just a poorly made fuse... either way, i think the factory plug is sufficient.

Unlikely.
What you had was corroded connectors. This caused a high resistance ( several ohms instead of a fraction of an ohm) connection. The high resistance connection dissipated a lot of heat, but did not draw excessive current. Note that 10A at 12V can provide over 100 watts of heat.
 
No worries then. A little silicone grease in the plug to keep water out, no corrosion on the new plug.
 

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