Dccv?

[xford]

It appears the infamous DCCV failure has hit my 2006. From looking at the location of the unit it does not appear to be too tough of a DIY repair.
A few items:

My Fuse #1 10 A appears to be fine.

I tried to do a AC diagnostic by pushing "OFF"&"Floor" then "Auto" w/in two seconds and nothing. I aslo tried "Off" & "Defrost" (Gen 2?) then "Auto" w/in two seconds and still nothing. Any other idea to try?

Does the coolent have to be drained? The resaon I ask is I did a full flush not that long ago. I assume if I quickly pluged up the various hoses I would not lose too much fluid and could just refill the reservoir...not sure though.

Found replacement on Amazon for $89 - this one ok?

http://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-YG...keywords=2006+lincoln+ls+heater+control+valve

Thanks in advance for any input from those experienced in this repair on a Gen 2

 

[joegr]

Turn the DATC off, press and hold both off and defrost at the same time. Hold them for about a second. Release them both at the same time. Wait about 1/2 a second to one second and then press auto.

The about 3/4 gallon of coolant will drain. It's less messy if you drain it with the drain on the radiator, but if you don't, then don't worry it will come out when you take the first hose off the DCCV.

Yes, that looks like the correct part.

 

[marcredd]

Must be the day for purchasing them from Amazon. Ordered one around 8:20pm.

 

[jrand]

why drain it when you can just kink the hoses?

 

[tireman]

Drain and flush it

The reason the DCCV quit is most likely grit buildup jambed the pistons. Put a hose to the system and flush all the grit out then put in new coolant.

 

[xford]

Turn the DATC off, press and hold both off and defrost at the same time. Hold them for about a second. Release them both at the same time. Wait about 1/2 a second to one second and then press auto.

Joe, still no luck with this...very odd. Does it matter what position the key is in?

 

[RigsLS]

@xford,

READ:


- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

SECTION 412-00: Climate Control System — General Information and Diagnostics

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

• Inspection and Verification
  
  Front Panel DATC Module Self-Test (On-Demand Diagnostic Trouble Codes — DTCs)
  
• 
  Symptom Chart
  
  No communication with the dual automatic temperature control (DATC) module.
  The DATC system is inoperative, intermittent or incorrect operation.
  

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

SECTION 412-01: Climate Control

REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

• Dual Coolant Flow Valve

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

Abstract:

• 2006 Lincoln LS Workshop Repair Manual

 

[joegr]

Turn the DATC off, press and hold both off and defrost at the same time. Hold them for about a second. Release them both at the same time. Wait about 1/2 a second to one second and then press auto.

Joe, still no luck with this...very odd. Does it matter what position the key is in?

The key has to be in the run position.

 

[marcredd]

Found a "like new" Motorcraft DCCV on Amazon for $118 shipped. I used to work for them so I know that "like new' meant that someone slightly damaged the original box at the warehouse so they opened it, visually inspected the DCCV, and repackaged(re-taped) it. Bezos has relatively tight quality standards so I was comfortable purchasing. No more purchasing a cheapo off brand DCCV for me. Lesson learned. Next Wednesday appt to have it changed.

 

[RigsLS]

Haha, that's funny, I just finished up with the Jag T-stat, OEM Degas - got back inside and cleaned up,
fresh coffee and now just sitting here looking at my DCCV YG-355 and Aux coolant pump for tomorrow's adventure.

 

[marcredd]

Mine has needed changed since December but has pretty much been garaged since then. Warmer weather is coming so it is time to get rid of the hot on let side / cold on the right issue when the AC is on. Not to mention the one temp(hot) when the heat is on.

 

[RigsLS]

mine was the other way around last part of the summer last year, on AC cold on drivers, lukewarm
on passenger, then it's started getting colder out in the fall and I could have cared less, warm on both sides.

Had intentions of storing the LS over the winter, that plan needed to be aborted and halfway
through the winter ended up with no heat at idle, not enough hot air, no hot air.

Back and forth. Intermittent. until I realized I was down a bit on coolant, second time I topped it up and rebleed,
she puked behind the front drivers wheel onto the ground in small quantities.

Had everything ready but the Bottle. One more day of back pains and I should be bleeding it to warm air all around.
Just in time for a fresh cabin filter and an AC recharge.

Hello summertime!

 

[jrand]

marcredd, its pretty easy to do if you just kink the hoses instead of draining coolant... even if there is some grit it wont wreck it anytime soon and youll probably pay a mint to have dealer do the work. its an hr job tops.

also for anyone who may not even want to pay to have the dccv changed, check the stickies. someone claims that running diagnostic cured the symptom in theirs until they tried to change the climate control temp. they didnt say which gen, or what problem they had with the dccv tho. anyways, that might save someone a few hundos in the future if they dont feel like replacing a dccv

 

[RigsLS]

Yes jrand, it's a bit of a work around, I recall seeing that mentioned.
However, wouldn't you agree that the DCCV is already acting up and it's complete failure is only a matter of time?
Mine did still seem to control temp up and down but the one side did not like to provide the correct cooling as opposed to the other side.
then the heat went a couple of time completely but I blame that on the low coolant. Eventually it's going to need to be replaced to restore as intended operation.

 

[RigsLS]

an hour to re&re you say. Ha ... bet I'm going to be on it for the entire morning!
I tend to get distracted and either get fresh coffee or clean nearby parts.

 

[marcredd]

Not paying a dealer. Using a certified mechanic who works on the side. Agreed upon price of $40. It is worth that to me anyday of the week.

 

[jrand]

personally i would do it myself then pay the $40, but thats just me. to each their own. you wont find a better deal than $40 tho

 

[jrand]

Yes jrand, it's a bit of a work around, I recall seeing that mentioned.
However, wouldn't you agree that the DCCV is already acting up and it's complete failure is only a matter of time?
Mine did still seem to control temp up and down but the one side did not like to provide the correct cooling as opposed to the other side.
then the heat went a couple of time completely but I blame that on the low coolant. Eventually it's going to need to be replaced to restore as intended operation.

i dont know; mine worked fine until one day it started sh_itting coolant so i got a new one asap instead of messing with it.

 

[marcredd]

The reason the DCCV quit is most likely grit buildup jambed the pistons. Put a hose to the system and flush all the grit out then put in new coolant.

I wish that was the case in my scenario. I cheaped out and it did not work out.

 

[RigsLS]

The cylinders inside the unit get old and gummed up so to speak.
IMO, it's either about to go or it is gone. In this cause new unit is best option.
Sure mine had to have gotten stuck in the passenger side cylinder and unable
to fully close or open whichever it needs in order to provide full AC.

 

[jrand]

The cylinders inside the unit get old and gummed up so to speak.
IMO, it's either about to go or it is gone. In this cause new unit is best option.
Sure mine had to have gotten stuck in the passenger side cylinder and unable
to fully close or open whichever it needs in order to provide full AC.

right. closed will yield ac.

poster indicated that as long as you dont move the door (via temp control) it will hold though. like i said, never messed with mine, but if i had to guess... the 'self test' gives a stronger signal/pulse for the unit to open/close than the normal open/close signal/pulse. when i have ran the self test in the past it sounds like things in there are moving with a bit more 'authority' than normal.

 

[RigsLS]

Hmmm, which would perhaps allow "with a little more force" to scrape by the stiff spot where it gets stuck from being gummed up. A bit of back and forth past that particular stubborn spot and back in business for a bit.

We'll it's a DCCV, Aux Pump, fill system and bleed day for me today but it's going to take a lot longer then 1 hr, have to move some household appliances around to day as well.

 

[marcredd]

Take pics as you go and post.

 

[marcredd]

The cylinders inside the unit get old and gummed up so to speak.
IMO, it's either about to go or it is gone. In this cause new unit is best option.
Sure mine had to have gotten stuck in the passenger side cylinder and unable
to fully close or open whichever it needs in order to provide full AC.

I bought some off brand and it died in 7 months.

 

[RigsLS]

Take pics as you go and post.

oh yeah? well you don't have to tell me twice when it comes to pics.
wait... pics of me moving a washer and dryer today or changing out the DCCV and Aux pump ?

LOL


will do but it's going to be a bit later on today.

Keep in mind V6, V8 GEN I are different. and GEN I vs GEN II are different.

Mine is the 2001 V8 GEN I and has the Auxiliary coolant flow pump on top of the DCCV.