Does anyone sell rear hubs? Dealer says no..

If the wheels are on the car then yes the knuckle is on it. The only thing about that is, just hope that the bearing in that knuckle is not bad. It's alright to get certain part from salvage yards, but when it comes to suspension parts you want to steer away and go new.
 
I fully agree but 700$ is really expensive....especially for a car with almost 200k
 
Ok here's what I would do. Starting calling and tell them you are looking for the rear wheel bearings. Go and get the rear knuckle from the salvage yard. Since you will have it off, you can go ahead and get the new bearing pressed in before you put it on your car. Should cost you just a little over a hundred dollars for everything depending on how much someone charges you to press it in.
 
Do you happen to know if I need any special tools to remove the knuckle?

Wheels are off all theyre cars, I have a basic tool set, and one of those 150 piece Craftsman socket sets...What size is the axle nut?
 
I have no idea what size the axle nut is. As far as special tools, you shouldn't need any. Just basic wrenches. So I would just take the whole set.
 
LeaSr77 said:
If the wheels are on the car then yes the knuckle is on it. The only thing about that is, just hope that the bearing in that knuckle is not bad. It's alright to get certain part from salvage yards, but when it comes to suspension parts you want to steer away and go new.
Click to expand...

I agree for the most part. I did just buy a used lower control arm for 105 shipped. I did obviously buy a brand new moog ball joint though. I don't see the lower control arm being as much of a high wear item as things like ball joints/bearings.
 
Yea you are right Pektel, it's the parts in the suspension that will wear out over time due to movement.
 
I give up; I got to the junkyard, they were more than unhelpful in pointing me to the general area where the LS might be after I had to pay an unmentioned 2 dollar "Yard" fee just to get back there, found it, the damn things ripped apart inside out, beat to hell, thank god the knuckles still there right!?

Wrong, everything was seriously like rust welded. Every bolt was so rusted and corroded that I couldnt get any sockets onto it. I tried everything, used half a can of PB on them, nothing.

No other yards have an LS within 100 miles, its ridiculous. Now on top of this, we got that stupid ice storm, I cant get into the shed to get my jacks and whatnot out to get the car up to check it out for myself.
 
Guys I gotta apologize lol I was already pissed off this morning and then when the website cancelld my order that made it worse and then when I drove all the way out to that JY and left with no luck, that really topped my day off. I put a new battery in her though today and seemed to help a lot so that's another weight off my shoulders.

I ordered the hub from newfordparts and we'll see what happens from here.
I also gotta thank everyone for they're help too!
 
Man sorry that didn't work out for you. I was thinking about that when I was writing one of my replies about the condition of the bolts. Yea that sucks that you spent all that time going out there. Did you call the NewFordParts or did you just order it over the internet?
 
Does anyone have the rear knuckle removal procedure?

Im in the same boat with a rear bearing that is starting to make noise when loaded in a turn. I have replaced both fronts over the last year and now a noise has started in the left rear.
Potholes in western NY are HUGE so I would guess I hit one "just right" and now have the noise when rounding turns to the right which side loads the Left side of the car. Running straight down road or to left, no noise.
If someone has the manual procedure that would be helpful. Looks like I need to build a puller to remove the hub.
Thanks in advance for help!
 
The axle nut is 36 MM. better have a really strong breaker bar, its torque spec is 221 lb/ft. Make sure you get a new hub retainer piece, which locks the nut in place. I just tried a similar job to this over the weekend, only to find that the locks are one time use only and the closest one was 60 miles away. The remanufactured axles are $45 each at rock auto, the dealer will probably charge $20 for the lock nut, so I decided to go with remanufactured cv axles since i have 169K miles.
 
Well I checked my order at newfordparts, gotta love the fact that they dont even email you or call, but the order was declined.

Talked to Max, and he has the hub, but appearently the bearings are built into the knuckle? His knuckles are on backorder til March.
 
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I am going to have two working rear hubs/knuckles available soon, wondering if I should get new bearings for them and offer on line...the only thing that worries me is that the bushing on the knuckle is a wear item, so at some point, even with a new bearing, the knuckle could be useless.
 
Im going out to tear into it and have a look myself.

I would love it to be just the bearing...hopefully!

Ill post pics or whatever later.
 
YouTube - LS passenger rear tire

Does this look like enough movement to be a bad hub? I just figured theyre saying the hub is shot, that there would be alot more...

I honestly couldnt feel it when I was moving the tire, but watching the video shows a TAD bit of movement. But thats obviously a tad more than there should be.
 
I would have taken the wheel off, but for the life of me, I cannot find my lugwrench :(

Off to buy one later on today for sure.
 
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