Drive shaft ~ u-joint rebuild

torquemonkey

torquemonkey

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Has anyone replaced all their U-Joints? I am on a learning curve With the rear center yoke (Double Cardan Universal Joint) with its "slinger" and "centering spring inside the ball stud yoke". I've found a "clicking/clunking" coming from this area and believe that I need to replace all the U-joints and parts associated within the driveshaft.

Is it worth the money to take it to a shop, have them replace the U-joints and check out the rear center yoke and a re-balance? As it is now the rear thing clunks, sticks in spots and loose in others.

Also, I keep reading in online parts houses that there is a "DIAGRAM M, POSITION 2 (or Pos. 1) - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG..." pertaining to U-joint location. I can't find the diagram to reference. Any one have one?

Thanks
 
torquemonkey said:
Has anyone replaced all their U-Joints? I am on a learning curve With the rear center yoke (Double Cardan Universal Joint) with its "slinger" and "centering spring inside the ball stud yoke". I've found a "clicking/clunking" coming from this area and believe that I need to replace all the U-joints and parts associated within the driveshaft.

Is it worth the money to take it to a shop, have them replace the U-joints and check out the rear center yoke and a re-balance? As it is now the rear thing clunks, sticks in spots and loose in others.

I keep reading in online parts houses that there is a "DIAGRAM M, POSITION 2 (or Pos. 1) - REFERENCED IN PAPER CATALOG..." pertaining to U-joint location. I can't find the diagram to reference. Any one have one?

Thanks
Click to expand...
Torque,
I was quoted $250 parts and labor for just a center joint rebuild so I decided to replace my own. I think the front and rear were in the $12 range but the center was about $40. The front and back are pretty easy, just like any other car. The center one is a bit tricky. It would be a lot easier with 3 hands. I probably spent half to three quarters of an hour each on the front and back joints (after the shaft was out). The center took me more like an hour and a half. Simple hand tools are all that are really necessary but a press would make the job a snap. Satisfaction was great! Oh, a vice is almost a necessiity. Plenty of Seafoam on the old ones helps a lot. Lincolnlov
 
U-joints can be a bit frustrating to replace the first time.

Before you disassemle the unit mark the hard parts so as to reassemble them in their original orientation. This will ensure you will retain the proper balance. When pressing caps on ujoints be extremely careful not to knock any of the needle rollers out of position! You'll know if you did because you won't be able to get the cap retainer back on. If you have the unfortunate luck to have that happen, the attempt to compress the caps to position usually damages the out of position needle roller. The damaged needle will drasticazlly reduce the life of the joint. It would be wise to remove the entire u-joint and replace it right then.

Good luck.
 
I got a crown vic aluminum ds, cut and balanced, new flange, new tremec yoke (c6), new HD spicer u joints for like 280 bucks. Couldnt imagine paying 250 for parts + labor on the junk stock driveshaft.
 
Is that with the double cardon joint too? As I understand it, It is not wise to remove the double u-joint while you still have air suspension. As I have read, the movement of the suspension will put undue stress on them and thats why the factory designed the driveshaft with the double cardon.

How does the ride feel without the factory dampner on the yoke?

Any particular year of Crown Vic or Aerostar DS that is a better choice for a donor build up?

I think I had read some of your post's off of the Mark VII club, concering DSs. Good stuff. I'm looking ahead to figure what is the best money spent on my DS now that will have serve me well should/when the air suspension goes out and I swap over to springs. If I rebuild what I have, it ought to be good enough for stock horsepower. But I am concerned it is will hold up well to 4.10s and 75mph speed limit out here in the desert.

Any thoughts?
 
Sorry for the delay in response. i dont check this board often. i dont have air ride and i have a five speed with poly bushings and subframe connectors.. so yea it rides different. :) any aluminum vic or aerostar shaft will work. i think they are like 4" diameter

The one piece shaft is MUCH better if you dont haev airride...however i'm sure you could use it if you did have airride also. i've had my car 125mph+ speedo pegged, one piece shaft, 5spd, 3.27's...smooth as glass...

i have 4.10's but i'm waiting until spring to put them in, already enough trouble driving in the snow as is.
 
Cool, I have an '89 Super Coupe that I am parting out, as nobody seems to want a project car. I figure the Drive shaft in that ought to do the trick, once its cut down. That car has been up to 140+ and no vibes at all.

Thanks for the update!
 
The double joint is there for vibration, it has nothing to do with putting stress on the u joints or being able to drive with the bags all the way deflated. I ditched mine long ago for a conventional ds.
 
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