electric auto polisher waxer buffer ?

Ricksquickviii

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who here has a electric auto polisher waxer buffer tool, been thinking about buying one, it must do a better job than the old hand wax job?
 
I have a adjustable speed polisher/buffer that I bought at harbor freight tools. It was on sale for $30 bucks. I dont use it to apply or remove wax as I do that by hand. I use it with 3M liquid rubbing/polishing compound. It does a great job at getting any rough particles in the paint off before waxing.

As for those orbital waxers that they sell at walmart or pepboys with the 2 handles on them, well those are a joke IMO.
 
correct way to polish a mark

who here has a electric auto polisher waxer buffer tool, been thinking about buying one, it must do a better job than the old hand wax job?

the best way to polish a mark is to do this: step 1: wash car with soap and water. step 2: dry car and get one of those claybar kits by meguiars or the like, this will remove any embedded debris in the paint..you will be surprised at what comes off. step 3: buff the car with a fine cut cleaner like 3m perfect it..or meguiars fine cut cleaner...not in the sun...with a sponge pad on a buffer..like the 30.00 one from harbor freight. step 4: wax and grease remove(bug and tar remover) the whole car and wipe clean(this will open the pores of the paint for the next step. step five: coat the car with a good acrylic paint sealant like meguiars paint sealant or a new generation wax and do all the rest of your wax removal steps...an orbital buffer will really burnish this stuff in and you will really like the results...gives that wet shine that lasts a long time...the clay bar will really make the difference in how smooth the car feels. the orbital buffer will burnish the polish into the paint better than you can do by hand and you wont find swirl one...not even on a black car and i can prove that...hope this helps. i have 25 years in the body and paint scene and am putting together a website called dirtfloorcustoms.com which will be up and running soon and watch the hood im designing for my mark v111
 
i bought one of those cheap 20 orbitals from miejer and it worked just fine for putin on and takin off wax.
 
the best way to polish a mark is to do this: step 1: wash car with soap and water. step 2: dry car and get one of those claybar kits by meguiars or the like, this will remove any embedded debris in the paint..you will be surprised at what comes off. step 3: buff the car with a fine cut cleaner like 3m perfect it..or meguiars fine cut cleaner...not in the sun...with a sponge pad on a buffer..like the 30.00 one from harbor freight. step 4: wax and grease remove(bug and tar remover) the whole car and wipe clean(this will open the pores of the paint for the next step. step five: coat the car with a good acrylic paint sealant like meguiars paint sealant or a new generation wax and do all the rest of your wax removal steps...an orbital buffer will really burnish this stuff in and you will really like the results...gives that wet shine that lasts a long time...the clay bar will really make the difference in how smooth the car feels. the orbital buffer will burnish the polish into the paint better than you can do by hand and you wont find swirl one...not even on a black car and i can prove that...hope this helps. i have 25 years in the body and paint scene and am putting together a website called dirtfloorcustoms.com which will be up and running soon and watch the hood im designing for my mark v111

Sounds like you got it down! Wanna come do my Mark?
 
Supposedly the Porter Cable is the best for the money. It runs about 100 bucks I think though, maybe a bit more. I want one someday, but for now I'll do it the old fashioned way. For polish to be truly effective power buffers are the way to go, you need the heat to break down the polish.
 
a8_2.jpg
look at this one
 
You can pick up a orbital like that at harbor freight for arond $15 bucks when on sale.
 
any one that spins 700 to 2500 rpm will do just fine, just remember to keep the chord looped over your shoulder so it dont scuff the car and always make sure the edge of the wheel spins away from you panel edges or you will burn the edge of you fender , hood etc...to get the hood edges real good pop the hood and put a piece fo 2 in tape down the fender if you are scared about burning the paint. vice versa for the hood. for the guys with the fogged up headlights....use a sponge pad and meguiars no 2 or fine cut cleaner and watch what happens...you will really be surprised
 
Orbitals are the BEST any orbital will do they all do the same thing. I do ALL my cars and the Wife's Benz with my WalMart unit, works perfectly.
 
I use a Porter Cable 7424 orbital, or dual action/DA polisher. I also have a PC 7336 which is essentially the same machine but slightly heavier counter weight.

I'm using a flexible backing plate on it, and use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze foam pads (8006 polishing and 9006 wax and pure polishes, no 7006 cutting pads on the PC for me!)

Those cheapie orbitals are fine for applying waxes and such, but they don't anywhere near enough power for paint correction using polishing compounds and such. The pad and bonnet choices are also pretty limited, and are often poor quality.

Here's what my PC (with proper application and products) was capable of on my Mark VIII. The left side is before, the right, after:

sta70975.jpg

(un-touched photo (other than supermotor's resizing it, lol))

As you can see, there were bad swirls marks and marring which dulled the finish. The after pic on the right is even BEFORE wax, just the polishing and it's oils.

The finish after I was done with it:
2.jpg





I really enjoy using the PC, as it's pretty fool proof and can produce excellent results. You don't have to worry much about holograming the paint like a rotary buffer, but that's not to say you can't do more harm than good if you don't know what you're doing.
It's not all about the machine, you also have to apply and work the product you're using properly and with the correct pad, or your efforts will be counter-productive.

Even it's abilities are limited, though, and at a point only a rotary buffer can remove serious defects.
 
the best way to polish a mark is to do this: step 1: wash car with soap and water. step 2: dry car and get one of those claybar kits by meguiars or the like, this will remove any embedded debris in the paint..you will be surprised at what comes off. step 3: buff the car with a fine cut cleaner like 3m perfect it..or meguiars fine cut cleaner...not in the sun...with a sponge pad on a buffer..like the 30.00 one from harbor freight. step 4: wax and grease remove(bug and tar remover) the whole car and wipe clean(this will open the pores of the paint for the next step. step five: coat the car with a good acrylic paint sealant like meguiars paint sealant or a new generation wax and do all the rest of your wax removal steps...an orbital buffer will really burnish this stuff in and you will really like the results...gives that wet shine that lasts a long time...the clay bar will really make the difference in how smooth the car feels. the orbital buffer will burnish the polish into the paint better than you can do by hand and you wont find swirl one...not even on a black car and i can prove that...hope this helps. i have 25 years in the body and paint scene and am putting together a website called dirtfloorcustoms.com which will be up and running soon and watch the hood im designing for my mark v111
1. A rotary buffer is for an experienced detailer only. I suggest practicing on an old beater or a couple of body panels from the junkyard.
2. I'd love to know how a clear coat has "open pores"
3. No orbital buffer from wal mart gets the surface warm enough to "burnish" the paint. Whatever that means.
 
Orbitals are the BEST any orbital will do they all do the same thing. I do ALL my cars and the Wife's Benz with my WalMart unit, works perfectly.
Negative. The only orbital worth a flip is the Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 mentioned above. The wal mart units are only good for applying wax. They don't have the power to remove swirls.

A porter cable is the perfect tool for a person to learn on and then eventually progress to a rotary.


I use a Hitachi rotary.

For a wealth of educated detailing info:

www.autopia.org/forum


My parents 98 LSC polished by me with a rotary(Megs #80 Speed Glaze topped by Collinite):

98lsc001yg6.jpg

98lsc006fy2.jpg
 
Negative. The only orbital worth a flip is the Porter Cable 7424 or 7336 mentioned above. The wal mart units are only good for applying wax. They don't have the power to remove swirls.

A porter cable is the perfect tool for a person to learn on and then eventually progress to a rotary.

I agree... within reason. Although the Porter Cable is a widely used tool for auto professionals and amateurs alike, there are more random orbital buffers that are great. The Ultimate Detailing Machine is essentially the same as the PC7424 etc. but has 20% more power. Another great tool is the Cyclo Orbital Polisher which uses two heads (pads) instead of one for better balance and surface area vs. time. You basically can't go wrong with any of these. If you're an amateur just starting I'd recommend the Porter Cable 7424, it's near impossible to burn or damage the paint and you can still remove virtually all swirls, some scratches, and contamination. These are all defined as dual action polishers.

The Walmart/Pep Boys/etc. brand "polishers" don't have nearly as much power as the dual actions or rotaries. They can put wax on but thats as far as you can go with them. They aren't worth the money at all, you could apply wax with your own ass if you wanted to. It's all about the power of the unit, and those little dinky ones just don't cut it.

I'm not an expert but you can PM me if you have any questions, I have some places you can find good deals on them.
 
This is an excellent thread. Should be a sticky.
If anyone has any other questions, I would be happy to answer them. I've been detailing for 10 years. Started out with a generic wally world orbital buffer and progressed to a Hitachi rotary.
 
If anyone has any other questions, I would be happy to answer them. I've been detailing for 10 years. Started out with a generic wally world orbital buffer and progressed to a Hitachi rotary.

I've already established myself as the Alpha male for answering questions. Are you saying you want a piece of me? LOL


What kind of polishes etc. do you use? I was thinking of sooner or later upgrading to a Metabo polisher, I need some more experience on my PC though.
 
I've already established myself as the Alpha male for answering questions. Are you saying you want a piece of me? LOL


What kind of polishes etc. do you use? I was thinking of sooner or later upgrading to a Metabo polisher, I need some more experience on my PC though.
For mild cases of swirls: Megs #80. I never could get the hang of $83 Dual Action Cleaner Polish(DACP).

I have been using Optimum Polish Optimum Compound and Optimum Hyper Compound. They hardly dust at all and all 3 have a long working time.

http://www.optimumcarcare.com/
 
I too highly recomend the porter cable ( ulitimate detailing machine is what I have)........ It is not cheap but works great with some practice. Very durable and should last a long time. I buffed out my 94 ...it was sad. It looks great !!
 

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