Sparkplug70
LVC Member
I have a 2004 LS V8. Is it possible to eliminate the E.G.R valve like we use to on the old V8's of the seventies? Is there an aftermarket intake that does not have a E.G.R mount. Thanks Again for your help
Elimanating the E.G.R
- Thread starter Sparkplug70
- Start date
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Why would you want to? You'll just increase knocking and therefore reduce timing and lose power. If you did, you wouldn't need a different intake (the valve mounts to the throttle body anyway), just leave the valve on but disconnect the solenoid so it stays closed. Any way that you do it, you will get a check engine light. What's the benefit?
EGR was done poorly in the 70s. It's done well now. It doesn't reduce power or make the engine run rougher.
EGR was done poorly in the 70s. It's done well now. It doesn't reduce power or make the engine run rougher.
Sparkplug70
LVC Member
Thanks Joe...Here is another problem. Check engine comes on,engine running like on 7 cyld. I get code P0351 #1 C.O.P not working. I replace , reset code , runs fine for 2 days then it starts all over again. I have replaced the #1 twice , i have swapped them around twice to see if it was a C.O.P but i does the same. Perfect for about 20 miles the it all starts over again. I have been told (Auto-zone) that it is the P.C.M. Have you heard of a problem like this before? No matter if it is new or used , Motorcraft or Generic , moving #1 to #6 or vise verse , first 20 miles perfect , then it is like someone just pulled a plug wire off. There is no oil in Plug hole , I am using Autolite Iridium XP plugs gaped to .39 and Motorcraft C.O.P's. If you know ANY tricks or tips I would name my next child after you. This problem has been going on for about a month (only 60 miles total) i don't want to harm engine , so it is gonna sit till i or we can figure it out. Thanks for your help Joe. My personal email add is Magneto@twc.com if you have any thing like a chart or page that i need to have. Thanks Joe
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It very much does.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Did you replace the spark plug?
Anyway, I suspect the electrical connector to the #7 coil. Are its contacts clean and unbent? Is the plastic housing good and does it latch all the way down? Do the wires look good (are they pinched or nicked anywhere)? Did you do the short and continuity tests on the wiring for #7, between the PCM and the coil?
Sparkplug70
LVC Member
It's #1 not #7 it just runs on 7. I have replaced plug and C.O.P twice. I have swapped #1 and #2 and at first it was great,then in first test drive,Check Engine light comes on and starts running like **** all over again.There is NO oil in the plug area and have great compression also. The boot and pins look ok but i am getting ready to do a complete inspection of the harness on 6/18. I noticed that you can buy the connectors for the C.O.P's,do they go bad alot?Do you know the parameters for the ohms resistances for the wires to the C.O.P? I got the whole top of motor torn down right now so the wiring harness's are all accessible. I torn down the top end to clean it all up and to see if there is any H.O parts i can find or make to increase HP. Any suggestions would be appreciative. Thanks Joe
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Might look into some Jaguar camshafts if you have the top off. No idea how much more lift/duration you can go without access to a programmer. Good time to do timing chains, tensioners and guides while you are in there. You can look at SCT for a programmer although I don't know how extensive their programmer is. You'll want one that will allow you to modify the volumetric efficiency, fuel, and timing at a minimum. Porting the heads might be beneficial for you as well. No idea how much you can do on them though. Head porting is an art, and while it's possible to do it yourself it pays to get someone good at it to do the work for you.
One other thing that I'd thought about for mine, swapping coils for something more reliable. I had thought about using Chevy LS coils in placed of the COPs on the Lincoln. To do this you'd need to investigate the wiring differences (I lost interest in the car before getting to that stage), build brackets, and swap plugs. For plug wires I was going to use a hole saw to cut holes in the factory coil cover for a pass-through, then use spark plug wires with the rubber plug on the wire designed to block off the spark plug hole. This would keep water out of the plug wells. The reason for the Chevy coils is they are quite a bit larger and more robust than the COPs, so should last a lot longer. Using them would depend upon whether the actual wiring inputs can be converted.
Good luck to you, hope you can get what you want out of it.
One other thing that I'd thought about for mine, swapping coils for something more reliable. I had thought about using Chevy LS coils in placed of the COPs on the Lincoln. To do this you'd need to investigate the wiring differences (I lost interest in the car before getting to that stage), build brackets, and swap plugs. For plug wires I was going to use a hole saw to cut holes in the factory coil cover for a pass-through, then use spark plug wires with the rubber plug on the wire designed to block off the spark plug hole. This would keep water out of the plug wells. The reason for the Chevy coils is they are quite a bit larger and more robust than the COPs, so should last a lot longer. Using them would depend upon whether the actual wiring inputs can be converted.
Good luck to you, hope you can get what you want out of it.
BigBalla39213
Active LVC Member
To my knowledge that can't be done on this one. The MAP Sensor is located on top of the EGR Valve.