Engine knocking on 2000 LS V8

[sjames08]

Since I've owned my 2000 LS, I've burned premium gas 99.5% of the time. REcently, I put about a half a tank of regular in it. A few days later, I noticed a knocking noise in the engine. I've burned several tanks of premium since that, but, the knocking noise remains. Any ideas? Also, does anyone know a good way to remove the headlights so the inside of them can be cleaned. I've always had a fogging problem with them, but, don't want to pay the unreasonable amount of money they want to charge me to put in new headlights. Thanks so much!

 

[eL eS]

bake the headlights at about 250 degrees for a few minutes. There are many posts covering this. They only caveat is that your headlights have to have the gray adhesive sealant if it is black you are out of luck.

Did you run the car hard when you pumped the regular fuel?


If anyone out there is considering using 87/89 octane please do not.

 

[eL eS]

BTW :W to :V

 

[sjames08]

I don't recall driving hard during this time (mostly around town). I should also say I believe I have a leaky valve gasket, also, as I do see dirty oil on/around the gasket covers. The check engine light has been coming on and off during this time (mostly staying on). Also, I'm still not sure how to get the headlights off? Thanks for your help.

 

[eL eS]

justr seach the forums using the the terms fog and/or headlights. I would retype the how to but it has been done so many times already.

If you can get to an autozone ask them to read you computer for you. Post the code back here. I doubt the VC leak is causing the knock to occur. I ran 89 one time and it knocked like crazy fortuneately it did not continue to knock after I pumped 93 back in.

 

[Quik LS]

Sounds like your car tried to adjust to lower octane gas but couldn't pull enough spark out and therefore you started knocking.

However it will take a while to adjust back.

To speed up the 'adjust back' time - just disconnect your battery (remove the ground strap from the trunk with a 8mm socket) and let it sit for 5mins. Then plug it back in.

this should remove and 'memory' the PCM has about the gas and knock adjustment.

 

[sjames08]

Sounds like your car tried to adjust to lower octane gas but couldn't pull enough spark out and therefore you started knocking.

However it will take a while to adjust back.

To speed up the 'adjust back' time - just disconnect your battery (remove the ground strap from the trunk with a 8mm socket) and let it sit for 5mins. Then plug it back in.

this should remove and 'memory' the PCM has about the gas and knock adjustment.

Thanks, that helped!!

 

[sjames08]

Well, disconnecting the battery helped a little. However, there is still a knocking sound and the car idles like it's really straining. It runs smooth on the road, though. I took it to Autozone and it passed the diagnostics test with no codes returned at all. I've taken it to a couple of places to have the oil changed and they won't change the oil because of the knocking sound. Do you think it could be related to the timing chain?

 

[lsbit]

Well, disconnecting the battery helped a little. However, there is still a knocking sound and the car idles like it's really straining. It runs smooth on the road, though.

Does this knocking sound happen while in the driveway? It might be a mechanical problem if it does.

 

[MAT88GT]

pull the eec codes


I run 89 (10% eth.) all the time with no knocking

 

[sjames08]

Does this knocking sound happen while in the driveway? It might be a mechanical problem if it does.

You can hear it when slowing down, cruising at very slow speed and while stopped at red lights, etc.

 

[lsbit]

You can hear it when slowing down, cruising at very slow speed and while stopped at red lights, etc.

OK...that does not sound like spark knock/octane issue to me. My sport does this a little too, but I think it is an exhaust leak or EGR leak. When under decleration, timing is really kicked up in most tunes I have seen and you can hear the exhaust tick more at that point.

Always good to stay positive on these things. Bad bearings(bottome end) can be heard best when there is no negative load or positive load on the engine so you get slack. That can be hard to do, but that is usually how I try to see if I have a bearing problem. It is easier to moderate with a manual trans. Doing the oil change might be a good first step. A friend of mine had bad valve noise in his 318 and it was due to a bad oil filter. It's been over a year now and he has had no problems. Maybe you have a valve lash problem too. Use a long screwdriver that you can put up to your ear while you rest it on different places on the valve cover. That will help you pin-point valve train noises.

It would be nice if you could hook up an analog oil pressure gauge also.

Good luck,
Don

 

[sjames08]

OK...that does not sound like spark knock/octane issue to me. My sport does this a little too, but I think it is an exhaust leak or EGR leak. When under decleration, timing is really kicked up in most tunes I have seen and you can hear the exhaust tick more at that point.

Always good to stay positive on these things. Bad bearings(bottome end) can be heard best when there is no negative load or positive load on the engine so you get slack. That can be hard to do, but that is usually how I try to see if I have a bearing problem. It is easier to moderate with a manual trans. Doing the oil change might be a good first step. A friend of mine had bad valve noise in his 318 and it was due to a bad oil filter. It's been over a year now and he has had no problems. Maybe you have a valve lash problem too. Use a long screwdriver that you can put up to your ear while you rest it on different places on the valve cover. That will help you pin-point valve train noises.



It would be nice if you could hook up an analog oil pressure gauge also.

Good luck,
Don

Thanks, Don!!!

 

[eL eS]

. A friend of mine had bad valve noise in his 318 and it was due to a bad oil filter. It's been over a year now and he has had no problems.

Good luck,
Don

I just did an oil change at home and used a motorcraft filter. I had a bit of a knocking sound before. I would always hear it when stopped at a traffic light. I think it would go away when I put it in N or P. Well I noticede that is was not happening yesterday. The old filter was a fram. Any chance this is the reason the sound went away.

 

[lsbit]

I just did an oil change at home and used a motorcraft filter. I had a bit of a knocking sound before. I would always hear it when stopped at a traffic light. I think it would go away when I put it in N or P. Well I noticede that is was not happening yesterday. The old filter was a fram. Any chance this is the reason the sound went away.

That would make it 3 people in a year that I know of that have had this problem with their Fram filter. Strange...

 

[Gari2000lsv8]

I also have a 200 w the same issues, plus more. First the knocking may be the upper left timing chain tensioner. Take a wooden broomstick n cut it to about 2 feet. Place one end on top of valve cover and other end against your ear. Slide it along left valve cover, this one seems to go first, from back to front. If u hear knocking sound at front of cover BINGO! Its the upper tensioner. Not a hard fix, YouTube has a great video. If its moisture in headlights a blow dryer or the sun will dry them out, then use clear silicone around old seal. If they're oxidized the 3m sanding system works GREAT! It takes time but they will look brand new. Good Luck!

 

[tonyrodlincoln]

I have a lincoln ls 2000 v8 and i have a knock in my engine on the passenger side. it sounds like its coming from the upper camshaft area i was told it was a rod knock but i want a second opinion someone please help!

 

[tonyrodlincoln]

I have a lincoln ls 2000 v8 and i have a knock in my engine on the passenger side. it sounds like its coming from the upper camshaft area i was told it was a rod knock but i want a second opinion someone please help! i need help

 

[FDR]

Post a video. Or just open your valve covers and take a look. If it's the tensioners, you'll see scrapes on the inside of the valve covers and a slacked chain. I wouldn't recommend turning the engine on until it is diagnosed and fixed.

To check for rod knock/spun bearings, remove all spark plugs. Place a plastic straw in cylinder 1. Turn the crank pulley by hand with an 18mm ratchet (or was it 21mm?) until the straw gets near TDC. Then slow down and watch it as you continue to crank. The straw should smoothly move up, slow down, then move in. Marker tick marks can help you see the movement.

If you have a spun bearing, the bad piston will push the straw up and stop, then move it downward. To confirm it, without moving the crank, stick a long screw driver into the spark plug hole and firmly press downward, but try to not scrape the top. If the bearing has been spun and obliterated, the piston will drop a bit and hit the crank with a heart sinking clunk and a few emotional tears.

Repeat for each cylinder in firing order. 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8 with 1 being in front on the passenger side near your ABS controller, 4 being near your ECU, 5 being near your engine air filter, and 8 being near your degas tank (coolant reservoir)


Ask me how I know...

 

[RigsLS]

Frank did you put the all metal JAG tensioners and chain in the secondary on that motor and in need of a new motor?
Transfering that to the next motor or am I going to see some items added to the LS parts for sale section?

PS: what was the trick for wrapping a new chain around the bottom sprocket without taking the primary off?


EDIT - - - - How do you know Frank? :shifty:

 

[FDR]

Frank did you put the all metal JAG tensioners and chain in the secondary on that motor and in need of a new motor?
Transfering that to the next motor or am I going to see some items added to the LS parts for sale section?

No, I kept the old metal tensioners on. I'm gonna hold on to them for a while in case the replacement engine doesn't have them. And if the replacement engine has metal, then I might still hold on to them for the "replacement" engine to hopefully follow

PS: what was the trick for wrapping a new chain around the bottom sprocket without taking the primary off?

I believe the trick you are referring to is called the "unbolt the exhaust cam and buy a chain with a removable master link" trick

EDIT - - - - How do you know Frank? :shifty:

omg no.





I really need to get around to ordering that engine. With most options being crappy or expensive, it takes a lot of commitment. I don't have much commitment to spare.

 

[RigsLS]

Yes I was referring to freeing up the exhaust cam and raising it to allow the tensioner to come out, tie wrapping said sprocket to chain in position while both flats top aligned.

I've never done something like this before so it's going to be a first for me. The part I still need to get my head around is, when doing that, this gives a bit of slack as I understand it, so how is the opened chain wrapped around the bottom sprocket of the Primary when it's a) not allowed to spin/rotate b) shouldn't be able to because the primary is chained and won't so long you don't turn the engine.

Know what I'm getting at, can't just feed the chain down onto the sprocket and pull upwards once wrapped around it.

Is one supposed to kinda hook it around the bottom primary sprocket and then finish wrapping it on the top secondary sprocket, then apply the master link, then lower the cam and it's lobs back into place, while the tensioner got unsnapped.

I guess this might be one of those thing one needs to see in person to get a clear understanding.